Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Okay, a bit of closure on this. I originally had a new hose made up, same as factory circuit layout (keeping the damper hardline up along the firewall, with bleeder near fuel filter). This was where I had the issue, just couldn't get the air out of that damper line. Got a new soft line made up ...

Good to hear I'm not the only one who has had this issue. I've had the truck 14 years, never had this before, but then never fully drained the lines either. When I did the body lift 12 years ago, I adjusted the firewal bracket that holds the soft line to the slave, to reduce the tension on the hose ...

I'm having hassles bleeding my clutch and restoring full travel of the hyd system. Story: A few weeks ago while driving, soft line to slave splits, progressively pumps reservoir dry while driving home. Air would have got into master. Next day I went on 3 week holiday, just getting 'round to repair ...

Well, the little truck is now gone.

Got the last of some gear to sell now, the workshop manuals etc are on ebay now.


We had some good times

Bundera diffs are a good match as the banjo housing is offset to match the offset of the transfer output. Add some flares from a wrangler and you're done. Bundy diffs are coil through.

Time has come to sell my little truck been a faithful companion for over 17 years, with many adventures and trips under it's belt.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... highlight=

spazbot wrote:super cheap auto or hare and forbes would sell them


http://www.hareandforbes.com.au/sample_ ... ng/96.html

Thats the shizzle H&F will freight to our door!

I had a look at the super cheap units, just too big for the job.

Cheers.

Chasing info on small parts cleaner/washer, smallish tank (say 10l) and small wash basin, 240v pump of course. did see some a while ago online, but could never find the link again The basin on these was only about 400mm wide, 300 deep and 300 high, ideal benchtop model.

TIA.

Yep, still make a 33 x 10.5 in a bfg, mud and all terrain.

all aussie, and the ORIGINAL urban camo paintjob...

I've run two thermos for the last couple of years. One sandwiched between the intercooler and the radiator, and one behind the radiator. Both to the same manual switch. I rarely have to use them, even with the std fan removed. Usually only on steep hills when towing, or if bogged and giving it ...

If you have leaky inner axle seals the oil will dissolve/mix with some of the grease from your cvs/wheel bearings and the grease will settle in the diff housing.

Some are an inductive transducer - the unit you have may need voltage supplied to it to return a signal.

What sorta rig is it?

Was the underlying colour on this rig yellow?

Methinks this lil rig has quite an impressive comp history...

Mmmm, no sign of a blue plate in the engine bay for the motor conversion.

Landcruiser diffs? Rear diff looks like a standard semi floating diff to me - no outer hub to indicate a full floating rear diff.

Current rego sticker?

Jackaroo lowers are pretty long, sorry can't help with specs.

Brown wire is always earth.

Yep, made my own, no pics though. I'll try to take some in the next few days.

Lately, I've been using a screw type bottle jack, inverted under a chassi rail on the Mav, to break the beads (I do a lot of tyre repair and swaps at home by hand)

Yep, old rear goes in front.

Are your steering stops adjusted the same to acheive the same angle in degrees (lock to lock)? What brand of steering stab do you have, is it the right length - might be limiting the steering on compression or extension. :lol: Quickest way is to take it down to ormeau, drive it up the bumcrack with ...

Yep, the driveshaft should not separate due to the design of the dust seal on the spline, but be careful anyway (might be an aftermarket spline) that the shaft does not come apart at the spline.

Yep, you need to do it unless you want to notch your crossmember heavily.

bad_religion_au wrote:i'd check castor.

Same here, 8 degrees is WAY too much, aim for around 1 degree positive.

Do a search on my posts in the Nissan forum on the shimmy issue.

While looking at the commutator, check if the com bars are uneven in colour, ie 1 bright copper then the next dark and burnt - this will indicate a short in the windings. The short will cause the brushes to burn more on rotation. Easier to see on a ventilated motor, as you can see the comms and ...

hottiemonster wrote:i use penrite limslip 85W-140, never had a problem with it. (GQ LWB 4.1s ARB's)

Same.

ok this is a little bit of bumpsy i would really like to know the answers to these questions if any one can help who makes the conversion kit for this? companys name will do what little extra things need to be done eg little custom mounts for cable and fuel lines and when getting an engine do i ...

I don't know of a supplier near to you Bartso, I get all of my plastics from E-Plas - parramatta road slacks creek. Exterior polycarbonate (Lexan) will have a UV coating on one side (faces out), this is important, or else the polycarb will weaken and discolour in sunlight. Acrylic (perspex) will ...

A new damper will not stop it, wasting your money. I could not get rid of it by installing 2 rancho dampers - and they had a lot of resistance. Still sounds like too much caster for the lift. Have you recently installed a heavy winchbar or winch and dual batteries? Hit any jumps hard, that may have ...

RV wrote:

Spiffy wrote:I hope this can help out some members.

It would if we could read it...

download it then read it, G.

Good thinking Spiffy.

Wipe up with rags, wash off with soapy water. If its been there for a while, the paint may have already bubbled, so be prepared to repaint a little.