Outer Limits 4x4 Board

They are not spinning but I had to tighten them that much that they bend around the bar before they stoped spinning. I have also put electrical tape behind to help. Not only this but the rod makes them bounce, bend as well. Thats all I done was wrap tape around where the u bolt clamps on never had ...

Hmm I just use the $25 wilson model from the tackle shop, fairly sure its alloy. Has 2 13 footers and 2 15s and I havnt tightened it since I bought it. Nothing wrong with alloy rod holders, you must have just bought shit ones. x2 I use the same never had a problem with them I have never seen ...

Thanks for the advice guys. It is pretty well run in now and I didn't thrash it or make it labour and i did vary the speeds but never really pushed it over 3000 at all in the first 1000 nor let it labor. still leakin but will have to look at sleeving the crank now i guess.
bugger!!!!
cheers pete

not sure I just drove it normally I did do an oil change after 1000km but never uses any "special" run in oil just penrite 15w/40

Hey trains, yeah had the crank linished and put the seals in further then they where originally. I think I will have to drop the crank out and have the it sleeved a friend suggested trying to fit a second set of seal but I am unsure if they will fit? The engine has done 1500 km since rebuild already ...

OK I just finished rebuilding my 3L and I have a couple of problems and was wondering if any body here could tell me : A if you can get oversize oil seals for the crank as the brand new ones I put in are leaking a fair bit. B how long should it take for new rings to bed in? as my exhaust is a little ...

I would be thinking fuel system as you said it happened in all of a sudden possibly a blocked injector?

Just below the oil filter on the engine block of my 3L there is a banjo type oil nut with dual feeds. One side appears to feed oil to the alternator. What is the other feed from this fitting supposed to feed? mine is p!ssing oil and I can see nothing hanging around that looks like it should be ...

Badlux strip it down take it to a engine machine shop let them tell you what it needs and then buy the parts they will do all the machining pressing what ever you want them to do. they will even reassemble it for you if you want but they aren't hard to put together and take apart you just don't ...

millers1 sounds cheap to me. if any one interested phone. engine australia on 1300364463. disclaimer:i dont know them i dont work for them in fact ive never even heard of them. cheers Regards Steve M I got all my gear from them they are good to deal with thier gear seems good propmt delivery However ...

Badlux I just finished rebuilding mine (see comments under your post in genral chat) cost me $ 2700 total but over 1000 of that was for work on the block and crank plus getting the injectors reconditioned. Its not that hard to do yourself but it does take a while. I done mine myself (except for the ...

There are quiet a few around the gold coast Tweed area but further South try Brunz wreckers in mullumbimby KJ auto parts Lismore (4wd specialist) Grafton wreckers 4 wd specialists ( I get most of my parts from him. Bit far from Byron but) plus there are a couple of wreckers in Byron I am sure ...

Cheers for the advise guys took them back to the rebuilders and he honed them down for me on the weekend engine is back in one piece now ready to drop back into the wagon.
Pete

yeah they do they are just tight

Thanks patchy will check it carefully have the engine spec sheet there.

the ones i pulled out where not pressed in the where free to slide and are held in position with circlips so they don't pertrude pastthe side oof the piston.
once i removed the circlips the old ones simply pushed out of the piston and conrod with your finger.

no worries thanks for that gutsquisher

They seem to be the exact size with zero tolerance and i don't want to score the bushes by forcing them. tryed oilin em still don't slide in.

yeah there the right pins the came with the new pistons and the replacement little end bushes The little end bushes are the bushes that press into the little end of the conrods. I think they are brass lined jobbies they seem a little rough to me but the bloke who pressed em in for me at the engine ...

Hi I am about to start puttin my 3l toyota engine back together and the gudgeons are really hard to get into the new little end bushes. was gunna through the gudgeons in the freezer and put the conrods in the oven for a while but thought i would just ask in case their is a dead easy way to get em in ...

Frank lux kid in melbnourne has a 3L and 5 speed gearbox for sale for 1500 only problem is its pick up I think!! You could probably get it frieghted might want to get someone to check it out for ya, but to me thats sounds like a really good price for a motor and gearbox. check it out under the ...

Mine does the same I run it till it shows empty and it still has 10 litres or so in it

Frank I was recently shoppin around for a replacement 3L for my hilux and the average price i found from any wreckers or rebuilders was around the $3000 mark I have heard of cheaper ones but you have to find a private seller I think they will bolt straight in but i am totally unsure on the manifolds ...

do toyota allready make a diesel v8?? if not do you know if they are gunna bring one out or are they pinchin one?

Any clues on the price tag they will be carrying yet??

If you are gunna change your big end bearings measure the crank and look for scoreing on the crank you can get oversize bearings if your crank is worn you will need a micrometer to measure the crank but if it is scored you will need to remove it and either have it linished or machined to remove the ...

I say shop local. If noone buys parts from Australia the economy of scale suffers and parts will stay expensive. I realise everyone wants a bargain but a least if you buy here you can deal with people direct and I have found buy staying with limited parts suppliers I get pretty good deals cause I ...

mine had 280 000 and was leaking alot from the rear crank seal and losing some from the front crank seal. The rear seal you need to drop the gearbox out and remove the clutch fly wheel etc to get at it the front isn't so bad still a bit of stuffin round but.

Emmo I would rebuild my own engine as well! in fact I am in the middle of doing it. At least if you rebuild your own you know extactly what you are putting back in your car. Buy a gregoeries manual and do it your self it isn't that hard (especially if I can do it) there are plenty of people around ...

Thanks trains,
got the old head in pieces now but have decided not to do the enigine by halves as there is not that much extra required to get the whole thing out. so i am gunna ripp the rest out this week and do a full engine rebuild from top to toe.
Cheers mate