Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Not that sure that Ritters actually did any BW 35 conversions. They certainly did C4/9 autos grafted onto a chopped LT95 TC which are beautifully engineered. The only BW conversion I have seen was crudely stuffed inside a LT95 gearbox and needed custom driveshafts, gearbox mounts moved back about 6 ...

A mate with a 94 had a similar problem. The splines in the torque convertor for auto input shaft had stripped. Easy fix.

This happened when he was backing a trailer over a gutter.

DL

[quote="ISUZUROVER"]I can reccomend super-pro polyurethane bushes. IME they flex as well or better than the holey bushes, and last longer.
[/quote]

Great bushes, soft like rubber without the drawbacks. Many converts on Aulro, even some poms.

cheers, DL

Cheers Zuffen,

Different strokes for different folks, but your input on the thermo 'debate' is on the A list.

The only crew who doubt how well they work are ones who've never seen how well they work in real life, especially in modded RRC's.

DL

[quote="Philip A"][quote]At slow speeds my experience is that thermos would way outperform the old fixed fan in my POS[/quote] But how old was the viscous hub and was it stuffed? A lot of people compare an old stuffed viscous with shiny new electrics. Do you have aircon? and have you also got ...

[quote="Philip A"] There are several reports on AULRO of people with electic fans replacing them with the old viscous after an overheat on sand or whatever. [/quote] At slow speeds my experience is that thermos would way outperform the old fixed fan in my POS. The old shroud was a pretty good fit ...

Hi, I have a 350 in a 74 RRC with the stock 3.5 rad and fake EL thermos (with slightly modded EL shroud). Been good since fitting the thermos 70k km ago. Previously had stock Chev fan and modded shroud. Current set up is waaaaaay superior crawling around on hot days, in traffic or elsewhere. One fan ...

Matt knows his shizz. A 350 crate motor will happily cruise and be abused for half a million k's and has sufficient grunt to keep me happy. Newer Chevs have a lot more grunt along with complexity (ecu, etc) that isn't my gig. As far as the RR noise goes I hope you're not referring to the 'tick tick ...

Hi, Easiest way to do this (if you don't mind a 3 speed) is to get hold of a Ritters C4/9 LT 95 conversion from the early 80's. They are around. As you'd be aware a C4 is a straight bolt up behind a Windsor. The advantages: Uses stock driveshafts, stock transfer case location C4/9 is stronger and ...

Well I'm certainly no expert. Jason at Autoflite took one look at it when he was measuring it up for a custom convertor and called it a C9.

Bigger input shaft or different splines or something else at the front of the box was the giveaway.

I just drive it when I'm allowed. ;)

cheers, DL

Would have been there to discourage mischievous pixie diff thieves in the mother country from stealing and melting metal down to be used in weapons against the Crown.

DL

Could have matched the 'vin' number on the big ally plate on the radiator support panel. Rear should be numbered the same if so.

cheers, DL

Hi, I have what was supposed to be a C4 /LT 95 behind a 350, but the auto turned out to be a C9 which is slightly stronger. Ritters did these too. Recoed the auto for $850, didn't touch the LT 95 transfer and have had no probs. It doesn't like being in drive in low ratio because the shifts are much ...

My POS has a 350 in a 74 RRC. No air con, Bosch alt, standard RRC radiator with genuine fake EL thermos, RRC pwr steering pump on fabricated bracket and some sort of stock (HM?) extractors that have only been clipped on the driver's side to clear the first cross member. Easier to use a Rover PS pump ...

[quote="chimpboy"] I guess the megajolt/EDIS approach has the advantage of programmable advance as well, eliminating the vac advance. I can live with points for as long as necessary but I feel like there should be a quick and simple way to upgrade. [/quote] Just to make it a lot easier have a look ...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/classic-range ... -door.html

cheers, DL

Hi Chimpy,

Have a look at this EDIS set up.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=50799

Set up for LPG and petrol. Thinking about doing something similar with my 350.

cheers, DL

[quote="radste"]
-It's a 1/85 model
Steve[/quote]

That's pretty small for a model. The wheelbase would be just over an inch long.

Hi Philip, Shroud to suit the 350 was on it when I bought it about 10yrs ago. It all worked fine with the stock RRC rad EXCEPT idling in traffic or crawling in the scrub on 40 deg days. It was simply an airflow prob. Water temp would go up to about 3/4 and oil temp would get up to red. Had an LT95 ...

Hi Philip, No air con on my '74 POS. Fans in shroud sit behind rad liberating a lot of space previously taken up by fan on water pump and associated shrouding. Only prob that has been 'masked' (overcome) is that a stock RRC rad is marginal at keeping a 350 cool when an engine driven fan is fitted ...

[quote="stuee"] I'm stoked with my setup and will never go back to a viscous set up. The best part about it is the aircon improvement in hot weather and the ability to cool the engine down while sitting stationary. I can actually take the car 4wding in the middle of summer now and not worry about ...

Hi,

I had 31/10.5/15's on rusty 7" sunnies and went to 8" alloys. No real probs but it doesn't handle quite as well turning into corners on bitumen when pushed hard, which surprised me.

cheers, DL

I have a 350 in a 74 RRC. Using a stock RR rad and EL thermos and all is good. Motor is on gas but not worked. Temp gauge runs between 1/4 and 1/3, no more even when crawling.

The stock expansion tank is not quite big enough for a 350, so I'm going to piggy back another one before summer.

cheers, DL

Hi, I have non-genuine EL thermos behind a standard Rangie radiator cooling a 350. Cost about $200 new for the fans and shroud as a unit. One fan is on all the time, the other is on a variable temp switch. Vastly superior to the stock Chev fan. Second fan virtually never needed. Has clocked up 50 ...

x3

Also a 3" lift will mean you have negative caster which should be corrected with slotted swivels or other.

And just check that the nut on the steering shaft on the bottom of the steering box is not loose. Does happen, been there.

cheers, DL

Hi Nottie and HSV,

Don't you get probs with vibration from the increased diff pinion to driveshaft angle with cranked arms? Just interested.

cheers, DL

Hi, I slotted mine and welded the slots back to holes. Easy. Looks very stock which was important to me. If you search around you will not be able to find anyone, who has slotted swivels without dowelling or tack welds, who has had them rotate. Please prove me wrong. BTW it is the best mod you can ...

Hi,

These guys in the US do sell the chains for about $100. Maybe email them, can't see it on the list.

http://nationaldrivetrain.com/shopsite_ ... hains.html

cheers, DL

Hi,

I posted it because it should give you confidence. The guy goes through every possible thing over time and gets a solution.

Rover motors apparently run quite happily under water with GM HEI dizzys.

Stick with it.

cheers, DL

Hi,

Have a squiz here:

http://members.boardhost.com/blumx/msg/1189502986.html

cheers, DL