Outer Limits 4x4 Board

the metal thermal conductivity is only a part of it. how its built and thickness of the metal all changes the thermals of it. then of course for off-road reliability and ease of repair are important factors. i would just find one that is known to work well. i know of a few cases of fitting a much ...

most common is simply is air being sucked into fuel line. it can form a bubble in the filter and going around corner pushes bubble to the outlet and the IP starves for a sec. change the fuel filter and fit clear fuel line, look for bubbles and track down the leak. common place is the filter seals ...

yes. most common turbo is to use is the surf 2lt (2.4) turbo and manifold. just make sure its 2lt(2) or 2lte turbo (ie square port turbo) as early 2.4 turbo's won't fit.
there is plenty of write ups on this.
otherwise look at DTS kit which i think uses TD04 turbo off the mitsi 2.8 diesel.

GUtripper wrote: The black/earth wire is what's cooked.

you should never be able to fry a cable. the fuse should have blown well before that. the only way a cable will fry is if its undersized or has a bad connection which heats it up.

btw small tip bit, 07 is the only year d22 where not made. 06 was the last of the jap d22's.

efi models its a single fuel and gearbox ecu. i think the earlier ones had a emission ecu and a separate gearbox ecu.
don't know about manualising but i see a few write ups that are done on surfs.

i think all the ecu needs is temp sensor and tps sensor. both will fit the 2.8. wiring might be fun.

i thought the very early models was no ecu controlled?
the other thing is to look at other makes. a lot of jap vehicles used the same transmission. seg mitsi auto will bolt up etc.

the lpg won't do bugger all cooling so you will still need intercooler. for slow speeds a water/air intercooler will work better. fit the radiator in front of radiator. whats been done to the fueling as that may well determine what turbo you will run, which may mean other mods such as intake ...

since your going to change it get one of the highflow thermostats. available in 88c and 82c.

not the best to run them cold. use more fuel and increase wear. especially as stick open thermostat will make the warm up take a very long time.

if i remember right, 150ftlb is still within factory specs for carrier bearing rolling torque and 200ftlb is somewhere around the upper limit.

depends on what you call tight.
have a look at
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... ost5844489" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

rowenb wrote:But the air dog would overcome the possible fuel starvation and you could just have the standard or aftermarket before it right?

yes.
also afaik they have adjustable output pressure.

What about the pure flow air dog ( a member gave a link a while ago about these) for the new vehicles? Haven't heard much about them or people running them only what i read from their page. my only problem with FAAS or Airdog is the small fuel filter they have. better to have the standard filter ...

On our fleet of 40 odd utes we put second filters on 4 of them. After 6 month 2 of those utes had the pumps fail because of the extra load put on a system that wasn't designed for it. All up the second filters cost $300 each to fit up. Caused around $8000 damage. Now we just replace all our factory ...

I have been looking into mods for a Lux axle to run big rubber (37+) and was unsure as to how aftermarket dff gears (nitro, Yukon) stack up against factory? ......... factory gears are the weakest, with exception of a few parts like cross pin. aftermarkets are fine as long as you don't have factory ...

check the idler.

no not all superchargers require oil feed. toyota's are separate (you refill it every so often), no idea on eatons.

need exhaust. new header, probably need something to clear the supercharger. won't need much tuning wise just something that flows well. also bigger exhaust. supercharged engines like big open exhausts. intercooler highly recommended. twin charger would be something i would like to do. but it gets ...

there is a few around that have done it. great for off the line power. eats turbo setups for breakfast in the low gears and at take off. makes the engine seam like its a bigger atmo engine. downside is making the brackets to hold exactly in place and belts and the biggest is that they chew V belts ...

hope you have the engines bearings done, otherwise they throw conrods threw the block.

don't muck with the standard one. they START to open at 88c, so normal running will be in the high 90, low 100's. with the turbo and the extra fuel the engine can heat up faster than the thermostat can open to handle the heat, so its very easy for you to overheat. thats why they will go to an 82c so ...

no idea from age. both engines where used at the same time and it may not even be the original engine.

one thing to watch is there is two versions of the 2L. they fit different turbo manifolds and use different turbo's.

tridon, they have a web site you can look it up.

if you have removed the thermostat then thats your problem. they are a bypass thermostat. when thermostat open it also closes the bypass. without a thermostat the bypass stays open and most of the water just bypasses the radiator and never gets cooled. TT2322-192 Thermostat (High Flow) Thermostat ...

i think some guys where modding pumps off mitsi's.
theres a few diesel specialist that do high power engines, they would probably know.

what did you cut out of the thermostat? with these style thermostat you must run a thermostat. lack of a thermostat can actually cause it to over heat. better to put a highflow one in. they make an 88c or an 82c. i would only recommend the 82 if running really high egt's ie lots of fuel and can heat ...

i have temp gauge with sender in before the thermostat where the aircon sender normally goes. thermostat is 88c highflow. temps 88c at cruise, 91c on hills. thats all she does. i had 82c before and it never budged off 82c. factory thermostat i didn't really test but it runs a lot hotter. i think ...

why the new head?

most likely radiator, especially if they didn't cut the tanks off and clean it.
also check thermostat.

the other thing is timing. may have gotten cam or pump timing out.