Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Steer clear of the bushwackers. They are super brittle, and smash very easily.

I've heard good things about the warn flares too.

Hi Chris, The SJ80 is known for being a little harder to modify, and there are some coily specific issues that occur, but nothing so bad as to make them a dud 4wd. Before you do too much work to it, check out the radius arm mounts and panhard brackets on the diff housings. These are known to fatigue ...

You can get Silverstone extremes in a 33x9.5 R15.

1l is no worse than a 1.3L. Infact, they rev easier, run better on side angles, and look cooler with the steel front grille. My old LWB 1l would sit at 120-130 on the highway. Was revving about 7K, but never had an issue. Just remember that they have smaller diffs/ cv's etc, so you will run into ...

I built this one a few years ago. tandem axle, load share, twin elec brakes, LED's, 2.4m width, 3.6m? bed, front and rear dovetail. Towed very well. 580kg unladed. http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx155/Fatzook/TSOR/P1010580.jpg http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx155/Fatzook/TSOR/P1010564.jpg

Killa custom cables
Steve
0404 811 498

He's on Facebook. G16B loom was $475 just a few weeks ago.

The one above uses 75mm lifted rear jimny coils in the front. It sits about 10mm lower than the 50mm lifted rear SJ80 coils in the rear.

Jimny diffs are a waste of time. They are no stronger, and employ the same binding radius arms. Converting the front end to seperate shock and coil however is a big step forward. Here is one I did a little while back. Has a WT front diff. http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx155/Fatzook/IMAG0118-1 ...

^^

What he said.

islandvitara wrote:I too am researching for a coily lift kit and have only found Dobbson Suspension to supply a 30mm lift front & rear.. Though apparently they'll do custom lengths aswell so im going to enquire about 50-80mm lengths..

You'll need fairly substantial castor correction for 80mm lift on a coily.

I just finished a chassis extension and tank shift on a SWB sierra. Running Feroza rear springs with longer shackles, but its a ute chop, so may have different spacial availabilities to your full body rig.

Thanks for that.

Now..... Any idea where I can get a 1.4 case from?

Hi Guys, I had a bit of a search here on OL and found some info on the LT230 case from the defender. The bible was very usefull, but didn't have the info I am after. Basicly, I am trying to find a 1.41 LT230, but not sure what year model I need to get that ratio. Wreckers are usless, and tell me ...

I've owned the supercheap style bender before. With standard cheapy dies, and some good quality DAWN dies. The DAWNs were miles better, but the rollers still left small dents in the pipe. I now have a speedworks bender. It uses a die and former like the JD2's, but can only bend up to 130 degrees ...

That looks awesome Gutless. Cheers. I've done heaps more work on it. Finished the tray, rear links and coilover mounts, floater rear diff etc. Just working out the shopping list for the custom suzanna44 front diff :twisted: RD88 centre with HD tubes, custom pumpkin, F150 Inner C's and D44 outers ...

Towing benifits are irrelevant for the 2L wagon as suzuki only rated them to 420kg or something stupid like that. The J20 SWB actually has a higher tow rating :? Infact it is likely the 2.5 will weigh more than the 2L v6, further reducing the available tow weight once the higher kerb weight is ...

No. You will probably reduce the effectiveness of your brakes by doing this, as your master cylinder is not big enough to operate that much caliper front AND rear.

Do a sierra based disc rear or leave the drums.

My current build.

I've been talking to an engineer about increasing the tow rating on my sierra ute. And the base argument is that it is not a commercial vehicle. It does have the right classification to be a commercial vehicle (on build plate), so this is my next coarse of action. My engineer seems to think that if ...

These are the ones I bought on ebay, I think they are $80 plus postage for the pair, as the buy it now price. I got them for $54 posted in the auction :armsup: :armsup: One of them has a built in number plate light too. http://i707.photobucket.com/albums/ww78/tonyandmelsphotos/hilux%20build%20up ...

Not finished yet, but I really like these LED's.

Yes.

Gutless . I agree with the 1uzfe idea but i already have a v6 and have access to heaps of spares . I did look at using the 1uzfe but as i have got all the diffs gearboxs ( im using hilux manual ) and the V6 for the cost of buying a 1uzfe im gonna give the v6 a shot I will post pics as i go I can ...

Z()LTAN wrote:Didnt cranky have a set of those crack and fall off after a few months?

The rims in the pics I posted above are not EWW, so it would not have been those.

In VIC?

Z()LTAN wrote:Didnt cranky have a set of those crack and fall off after a few months?

Which? EWW's? 'F's?

These would be the biggest offset rims you can get. They are 17x9 -114. http://www.twinstickoffroad.com/product_images/uploaded_images/armybarbie1.jpg http://www.twinstickoffroad.com/product_images/uploaded_images/armybarbie13.jpg Comp rigs only though. And I don't believe the 'f' rims are approved ...

I reckon for all the effort thats involved in fitting a commondore motor to a sierra ( I know, as I have done it!!) you should throw that crap out and fit a 1UZFE instead. All the same issues with clearances and driveline length etc, but you get a lighter, more powerfull motor and only 200cc ...

If your not into tube bars, these are pretty robust!

also zook w/bearings don't live long happy lives with 33's or bigger either This is true. I also appreciate the idea of keeping stock axles under a sierra. I am building mine ATM for 33's but have tried to address a few issues that others overlook. Front chromo's, possibly custom CNC hubs to allow ...