Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Cheers guys. Tried a bit of both the shifter and my drill. Not 100% sure I'd want to do it in my drill by choice, it's a slow drill but has insane torque. The torque limiting settings do next to nothing, lowest setting and screws will strip out wood or sheet metal without kicking in, snapped 14g ...

I need to do some M4 taps and my 1/4 and 1/2" tap wrenches are too big. What would be the next best thing to use ? Considering just a spanner or nice and easy with the drill. Can you get something better anyway, would've thought a small drill chuck with a t-handle would work better than the ones I ...

Basically the leds will not have enough voltage drop across them, so no.

The solution would be to up the voltage...

Hydrogen is only produced when the battery is being charged. It's a damaged battery though, I wouldn't rule out some residual hydrogen or something along those lines. Just don't think it's a good idea. Hydrogen is so light it would be displaced by the heavier air and escape out of the vents given ...

DAMKIA wrote:Hydrogen is only produced when the battery is being charged.

It's a damaged battery though, I wouldn't rule out some residual hydrogen or something along those lines.

Just don't think it's a good idea.

My plan is to top up the level by injecting distilled water back through the hole and then melt the surrounding plastic around the hole and seal it back up that way. Will that recover the battery? or do I need to inject acid in? That's a dangerous idea. There is a risk if you bring heat or a flame ...

Well I'd say it's a bit like how you can get nicad/nimh chargers that actually detect cell temperatures and voltages and react and have multiple charging stages and can charge batteries in a short time frame safely. OR You can get dirt cheap chargers to find it basically has a resistor and a diode ...

The relay that breaks the wire to the coil could break the wire to the starter (because yours is diesel) works on the same principle it just immobilises cranking? Would be alot easier than trying to wire it into the inhibitor. Yeah well as I said with the Sierra I killed ignition and starter ...

thanks for the tips guys, it'll definitely help! Re: the orange wire, it looks like it has a switch aligned with the brake pedal. There is also reference in the destructions to the alarm being triggered if the brake pedal is depressed. Now I don't know if that means that the wire can be left out ...

Well I found mine relatively easy but the documentation was a lot more detailed. Ha. :rofl: Only issues I had with mine is I'm guessing due to age a wire snapped/pulled out of a factory crimp connector... spent a while trying to figure out why my indicators were stuffed and after triple checking my ...

Well mine starts fine now...

I second dynamco.

What's the point in a kill switch, a well installed alarm with immobiliser would be better imo ?

Are the in bar ones not Daytime Running Lights as the local minstry for red tape would refer to them as ?

ie. You use them the same way many cars always have headlights on during the day for visiblity, except saving your headlights and running little crappy lights instead.

Work out whether you have enough tray space and put a good sized tool box on the tray, or if not enough space on the top, maybe think about recessing the tool box into the tray. If thats not an option for you, then maybe get some decent boxes put like you said, between the cab and rear wheels. In ...

Anyone know what the go is with them ? The ones that came on it are more like puddle storage units. To be fair there is a sticker on them that says something along the lines of "These boxes are not waterproof, storms can blow water under the seals." etc. etc. However they will have small pools of ...

They'd be weighty because those sort of LEDs, well any high power LEDS, need heatsinking... just FYI.

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USB standard is a MAX of 500 ma per outlet. 3 x .5 = 2 amp tops with safety margin My guess is it was a way below spec power supply you had originally. Switchmode would be best for efficiency and heat generation, not to mention size. http://www.powerstream.com/dc-dcz0303.htm" onclick="window.open ...

Doing this with a linear regulator is quite inefficient, but still possible. Your biggest problem is heat dissipation. With a 12V input, you're dissipating 21W at 3A. If it's an automotive application, you've got 27W to 30W to dissipate, depending on alternator voltage, and possibly a warmer ...

Got a wiring diagram for the switches ?

Could be that the illumination is independent, so that you can basically pass 12v through it off anything or if it is load dependent, so that the illumination is powered by the load. If that makes sense to you ?

Start ruling things out ? Get the amp to bare essentials, just wire up the power with no cap and make sure that's good. Have the remote turn on just triggering off the power for now to rule that out. If all is good then hook up your source, either use your head unit or maybe something like an ipod ...

The problem is "dont "compare to ricers Cruisers and patrols wieght upwards of 2.5 tonne +++ Depending on gear Some ricers wouldnt wieght half that wet Alot of conversions are done for the low down power Talk to a few turbo RB30 patrol guys and most would go turbo Td/Tb42 anyday No point revving ...

What I don't get is the patrols with detroit diesels... I understand that it would be a much simpler and easier engine to work on. But my quick google reasearch shows: By numbers. 6.5L V8 Turbo (Detroit Diesel) 160 kW @ 3,200 rpm / 597 N·m @ 1,800 rpm 3.0L V6 Twin Turbo (Ford/Land Rover) 180 kW @ 4, ...

Well tested the glow plugs... 3 were okay, one was reading in megohms so swapped all 4 out buy having an issue where one won't go back in as far so the bus bar isn't sitting right... so think I'll borrow a torque wrench off my mate so I don't overtighten it getting it in. Will let everyone know how ...

Hmm... I sometimes get white smoke on start up... bit spluttery at times.

Well hope it's the glowplugs, temperatures always rock solid and haven't noticed any coolant loss, although may keep an eye on it.

Will change the glow plugs and see how that goes.

I recommend you install a "master relay" to switch "accessories" power to all your accessory relay coil circuits. I don't know if it's necessary with the current draw anticipated. However I think it's a good idea more for if something shorts the ignition wire, instead of having many circuits going ...

Willy Hilux wrote:They are "UC" pillow block bearings. Both ram and bearings are over kill for that setup.

I was looking at it thinking some sort of small electric motor/stepper could do it...

I wouldn't do it. The gauge is a little on the small side. The insulation is a little on trhe thin side. It is likely to be solid core, and will be prone to break where your connectors are. Use the trailer wire mentioned or source some other flexible multicore cable. + Even if it is stranded cat5/6 ...

Batteries don't like cold weather... perhaps borrow another battery to rule that out 100%, it may be on the fritz even given it's age. I mean a jump worked fine so maybe that is it... ? I've been having trouble with the Sierra and a battery that's not even a year old that went flat inexplicably and ...

Hi Dooley, rapid80 has covered that and my hat off to him for trying to protect so called sensitive equipment. BUT, the use of any form of EMF suppression actually has nothing to do with protecting so called sensitive equipment because there is no sensitive equipment used in the automotive industry ...