Outer Limits 4x4 Board

That's cars for ya blokes!

It is what it is.

I build a supposedly unbreakable car and then I grenade 5 driveshafts...

That's just the roll of the dice.

Bring on next year!

Haters gonna hate

I had fun

Cya next year

On the road finally!

Coming at ya!

Coming down to the wire as always... See you all soon!

Don't be afraid to come say hi!

Yep the bolts are all internal so if you don't want to strip the entire pump down you just carefully take to it with a hammer and chisel until you can access the normal start/stop solenoid under it.

Get to TT, you'll hear it haha

I did exactly this conversion in my 75 and had to do the below;

Spigot bearing
Remove immobiliser module from inj pump
Engine mounts (steel bolt on sections)
Fan/clutch

Bring it on, I'm all but ready.

The 75 will be running the Ummm 'used' look haha

Going on 6 years now

Don't get me wrong, it should be dead... But it just won't let up! Even with the waste gate wired shut hitting in excess of 55psi and aas much fuel as it can take. Frequently get the Pyro to 700deg post too...

It's some kind of deamon engine!

1hzs are heaps shit, they don't last long and you can'tget any power out of them.

I'm 70.5 wms

It's wide but I've been able to use minimal offset rims, steering is light and responsive, rims are stronger.

I do clip trees more regularly nowadays 1 of which spun me off into the bush.

The offrodeo will be there

Basic rules of thumb I follow, angles of 15deg in 15deg back are a good starting point to maintain good shock angle throughout articulation. Mounting point material and angles of mounts should reflect the rigs weight and intended use. 40%up 60% down is a good all round setup. Conventional Coilover ...

Drop the perches, notch the drivers side one into the pumpkin.

Have you done a cut/rotate to get your Castor angle back?

Can you take out some of your smaller leaves?

I was sprung over with high steer and thick parabolics back in the day and never really got close.

If you guys spent as much time building as talking shit you'd all be finished. Tuff truck is tuff TRUCK, alot of you are already pushing the 'truck' notion far enough. Can hardly tell what some of the cars are supposed to be. Just my 2c Isn't that why rules are invented, to be interpreted in 50 ...

If you guys spent as much time building as talking shit you'd all be finished.

Tuff truck is tuff TRUCK, alot of you are already pushing the 'truck' notion far enough. Can hardly tell what some of the cars are supposed to be.

Just my 2c

*You're*

So much lol...

You lot just made my night.

Yeah that's live Evan. I had just clutched it rolling to a set of lights

On average I sit around 12

I like the idea of them and they do look cool.

But

This is comparing a car with a truck, the Iveco Is a cab over truck that drives like a truck and feels like a truck. Which is fine if you don't mind that.

I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with it bru.

Tom

It's a diff, not a f1.

You can buy electronic boost controllers that do all that for ya.

Don't need a spreader. Just get two come a longs or chain blocks from front to rear diffs at the wheel ends to tweak them slightly. Out they pop by hand.

Yes, I've done this.

It's possible that each scan gauge has been configured differently when installed.

9L/100 towing @ 95kmph straight line for a whole tank. Nullarbor

On the highway

I got it down to 9L/100 towing the buggy across the Nullarbor to tuff truck

uninformed wrote:

Struth wrote:Are you saying the Paj diff has a 9.5" crown wheel, and what is the diffs track width?

I think it might??? Didnt Bru21 or someone look at one of these for a possible IFS candidate a while back???

That was only the front ifs diff tho.

I'm running a Unichip Qchip with custom tune.

230hp and 770nm on 285/75

I still get as low as 7L/100

Fair call, mods can you clean this thread for Graham's sake?