Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Did the same thing as prontozuk in my D40 navara.

I have had one of these in 3 different vehicles and like it for its simplicity and robustness. The whole guts of it is encased in epoxy resin so is unlikely to suffer vibration or water ingress issues.

Anyway, here's the gist of it. Disconnect your main battery negative post. Connect 6 B&S or bigger from main battery to one terminal of the relay which may be marked "sense", if not marked i would assume the red one. Then connectr 6 B&S or bigger from the other terminal to your aux battery positive ...

I just typed out a long winded reply to your question and went to post it but this stupid site had logged me out so I lost the lot.

Check your fusible links as a start. Check for any broken connections or wires especially around where any physical damage may have been done by the charger.

A couple of ideas, hope this helps.

Depends a bit on 1. how deep your pockets are 2. how easy can you get your battery to a battery specialist 3. how much use you'll get out of it I think the c-tek one is a good looking unit if you want to charge and maintain general car and 4wd batteries, the Matson unit is more geared towards ...

Always good to get a result anyway.

Going by the wiring diagrams on the narva website, it looks like you're wiring it the way I would expect it to work.

Sounds to me like you've got your wiring at the switch around the wrong way maybe.

Can't help from here, but for your safety in the meantime, it would be prudent to make sure that you supply the van from an RCD protected circuit (i.e. it has a "safety switch"). Probably the best way to ensure this is to buy an extension lead with an inline RCD and use that to supply the van.

Found this. Which may not help in this instance, but might be handy for similar problems.

http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID ... BCATID=619" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hey?! My post was the first to say don't do it and I got here before rock_monkey. As for the guy who says that most sheds are on their own circuit, you don't know that's the case here, the OP never said anything about welding in a shed. He might be welding in a carport or under a pergola with an ...

Some fairly dodgy advice being given in this thread. 15 amp outlets are generally for dedicated equipment and are usually on their own final subcircuit. Whereas 10A outlets are for more general purpose appliances. Without knowing your exact circumstances I certainly wouldn't be advocating running it ...

Would it need to be as big as the old rear window? The closer it is to the driver, the smaller it can be to still see the same amount in the rear view mirror.

Disclaimer: I've never had an engel apart before. But it sounds like your fault could be in something that is common to both the 12V and 240V supplies. Maybe try disconnecting the motor and put power on to see if the fuse still blows. Use your nose (seriously) to see if you can smell anything that ...

Save your money on the ferret deflator and get yourself one of these for free from any tyre joint: Before I got my ARB deflator, I used to use one together with a tyre pressure gauge. They're fine as long as you're careful not to lose the valve (or carry spare valves and a compressor) http://i196 ...

The ARB deflator is very quick, easy to use and accurate. The valve stays captive in the body of it, so it means you can't lose the valve.

Ideally, I would earth each battery to the chassis and the engine block if it is practicable, and the main battery should also earth the body. If the second battery is mounted away from the engine, I would just earth to the chassis because it runs the length of the vehicle, saves using extra cable ...

Yeah, but 300,000kms?? I'm lucky to get 65,000 out of the tyres on my Territory, and that never goes offroad. Must be a bloody hard compound to get that sort of milage.

I have read an idea that seemed to make sense to me for this tyoe of situation where you don't want accessories to have power until the engine is running. If the vehicle has an oil pressure switch which switches to negative, you can use this as the negative for your relay, so that the accessories ...

Current rating of switch will usually be about half what it is on 12V as well from what I've seen in the narva and hella catalogues.

Most circuits like this people don't worry about putting fuses in. As long as you keep the run short, use the right cable in some convoluted split conduit and fix it so it can't rub through then you should be pretty right. Most starter motor circuits aren't fused.

The multiple earthed neutral system used for most electrical installations relies on the earth wire being connected to the neutral at each installations main switchboard to ensure that if there is a fault in an appliance where a live conductor touches an earthed metal part, then the current takes ...

This topic got me curious, I have googled up a couple of inverter operation manuals and they both say the same thing. The 240V power supply (Active & Neutral) is electrically isolated from earth and is intended to stay that way when used for in vehicle use. The earth pin of the supply is connected ...

As -Scott- said, the 240V current needs a path back to its source neutral in order to give you an electric shock. IF the neutral in the inverter is not earthed, you won't get an electric shock from touching either the active or neutral unless you touch both at the same time. Kind of like loads ...

post up some good pics of the two contactors and we should be able to work it out.

Just curious as to how much that bar weighs? How thick is the channel you used to mount the winch?

Symptoms sound a lot like a loose connection or intermittent open circuit on your probe wiring.

Sounds like an old post-mix (corny) keg from the older style soft drink machines would possibly suit your needs. Hold around 18-20L and are around the right diameter. Thinking about it, you could even use compressed air pressure on the "gas" connection side to force fuel out the side with the spear ...

As Thylacine has said, crimping the electrical connection and using a clamp of some sort, such as a saddle, cable tie, etc. to control the mechanical movement on the joint is the best way to go. Solder removes any flexibility in that part of the cable and actually makes it more likely to break ...