Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Zookified wrote:Thanks for that mate.

It must be alright if you fellas are using it gasless in a factory situation. I will have to have a look around and see what some of it is worth.

Sorry, I should have said that this is a flux-cored wire, but we also use a shielding gas with it. Belt and braces.

Hey all, Has anyone ever tried out stainless gasless migwire? It will be in my mates mig (400ish amp, high quality) for a few little projects. We wont be doing enough or highly frequently enough stainless stuff to warant crazy bottle rentle prices plus filling gas. It will just be for small jobs on ...

4wd26 wrote:
what we have to do to move road going vehicles around , be nice to have this sort of support for when bogged on expedition

That's AWESOME! It took me a second to figure out what was acutally going on...

Wow, Gecko, that's amazing! Fantasic write-up!

You must have a lot of patience, with the build dragging out so long...

I love your nickname: Cicak would be pronounced Chi-Chak, yeah? Just like the sound a gecko makes

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=168588" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

laurient wrote:i wanted my car to look cool so i asked my daughter to pick the colours for me

Uh, i'm not sure you've put this in the right forum...

2001 f250 4x4 :D can be had for low 20's 4.2 6cyl motor intercooled turbo diesel, will get you 14-15l per 100km towing.. 12l empty, shitloads of power, comfy roomy. and unlike all those v8td cruisers doesnt use oil :lol: Really? http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/results.aspx?vlist=a&base=1216 ...

2001 f250 4x4 :D can be had for low 20's 4.2 6cyl motor intercooled turbo diesel, will get you 14-15l per 100km towing.. 12l empty, shitloads of power, comfy roomy. and unlike all those v8td cruisers doesnt use oil :lol: Really? http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/results.aspx?vlist=a&base=1216 ...

When thread is in chitchat, more off-topic stuff is tolerated. Seems there was enough tech to warrant a move, but that made the chat out of place?

And the other question is: Why? Is it just to have something different, or do you have a specific task in mind, that a std vehicle won't do. It sounds like you are intending to buy a new vehicle, then heavily modify it, and i'm sort of getting the feeling that the answer to "Why?" is "just 'cos".

ok after all the responses i have received saying they will fit i took a trip out to the wreckers and got myself a pair out of a 2001 triton ($88 each) got them home and removed a spring from the challenger and laid them out besides each other and.......... they are NOT the same.... triton spring ...

Willy Hilux wrote:Correct....

Advantage is to be able to select 2wd low range maybe for rear burns etc....

Is it a big modification to do? Or rather, is it a modification that can be done to any box?

Couple of pics of mine. Sorry for quality, bloody hard to see the smartphone screen in the bright sun...

You would be happy to snatch off that point? i did many times and it didn't look like failing. also used it as the anchor point for hand winching when to bogged for snatching out. i would prefer to use a hook that mitsubshi state in the handbook as rated for recovery then a cheap bolt on recovery ...

chimpboy wrote:
want33s wrote:What about reinforcing the rear of the tip tray and fitting the crane at the back(over the hinge pins) instead of against the headboard. Not ideal for loadspace but at least the crane will have a solid footing.
It might make tipping stuff out a bit crap though.

Rolf!

Cool.

steff66 wrote:RO8M.. try the all new PX Ranger 3.2 I5 147kw & 470 Nm,Not the old Mazda based PK model ...As quoted in "Carbuddy"

That's a bit more betterer... I can't see any PX models in carbuddy though, you got a link?

Test drive a new Ranger, I reckon they will be excellent for towing, mountains of torque and good gearing. Really? Mountains of Torque? Carbuddy quotes 380Nm, whereas the Nav D40 is quoted as having 403Nm or 550Nm, dep on spec... Ranger: http://www.carbuddy.com.au/car/values/specification/default ...

Or use Tube (1.6mm wall) rather than pipe (2.11mm for 3" [80nb] sched 5, 3.05mm for sched 10) etc. and use bends, then tig it.

NJV6 wrote:Whats a repeater problem???

Me being a smart-ass. I think you've copy and pasted things twice in that last post.

NJV6 wrote:Another vid...

...So after a bit of underwater winching etc, and a bit more abuse at local events the winch just stopped, no lead or anything, just stopped.
...

Nice work, but ... i think you might have a repeater problem...

Manifold looks new! what's the plan? Just a tidy up and flick, or a keeper? body mods?

CitiSteel in darra was the best i found, just recently: http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Citi-Steel,+Ipswich+Road,+Darra,+Queensland,+Australia&hl=en&ll=-27.572884,152.959288&spn=0.007551,0.009999&sll=-27.572689,152.959675&sspn=0.003799,0.005&vpsrc=0&z=17" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

hj 45 wrote:
Pic of the tyres in question. Tread looks exactly like the Doublestar 7.50 x 16 rag tyres I used to have on my hj 47 troopy. But bloody hell these solid tyres are heavy!

Well I like inventor... even if -Scott- doesn't (like their support)... We have very few probs with bugs etc. (except with SAP integration,whole other story...) I run Inventor 2010 full time, on pretty much all sheet metal stuff. (plus i've had a dabble with pretty-looking stuff... see here: http ...

Go for a cruise through here (you might need to jump to somehwere around the middle of the page count to find pics that still exist...): http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1255" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; And then see what you can find here: http://www ...

I'm no guru, but wouldn't that eliminate all droop? So on a perfect road (or at rest) the cable is tight, and the axle can't move away from the body. Now say you're on a rougher road, and you encounter a pot-hole. The wheels can not drop into it, without taking the body with them. Makes for a rough ...

love_mud wrote: The joint they are using looks to have a cast "shank" on it, so I guess it is less of a pivot and more just "bolted on" also gives some allowance to realign the suspension if something does get a bit tweaked.

You just got caught in a grave-dig...

monmendoza wrote:Thanks Ro8M & Macarthur

@Ro8m. there is a space between the body and steering damper. It won't hit the body
or the pumpkin.

I am having the aircon fix by next week. I also plan to have some body panels, specially
the roof painted.

I was meaning damage from rocks etc.

I also love the look.

Are you concerned at all about damage to the body (or indeed the rod) of the steering damper?

Outer Limits 4x4 Board

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Re: Stainless gasless migwire

Re: Stainless gasless migwire

Re: vehicles to base on.....

Re: Malaysian Police Volvo C304 (4x4) Restore

Re: thoughts on bf goodrich km2's

Re: Pics of Your Rig......

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Re: in the market for a new tow car...need advise

Re: 4wd builder and mech

Re: 4wd builder and mech

Re: efs, ironman or tuff dog suspension

Re: twin sticks: how do they work

Re: Challenger Recovery points

Re: Challenger Recovery points

Re: Ute cranes - who has one

Re: Common rail Dual cabs for towing

Re: Common rail Dual cabs for towing

Re: Common rail Dual cabs for towing

Re: Stainless snorkel bending?

Re: Project Pajero

Re: Project Pajero

Re: Big Black

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Re: Pajero Solid axle swap and other modifications

Re: Pajero Solid axle swap and other modifications