Outer Limits 4x4 Board

BJ73 wrote:No, It's got different splines you dickhead !

Hey! Who are you calling a dickhead! ?

Flanges and hubs are different too.
Holes are spaced differently and axle flange is larger diameter

chris_stoffa wrote:

80's_delirious wrote:try pirate4x4.com you could be waiting a long time for an answer here these days

I'd say 10 days was a pretty prompt reply on a technical issue nowdays

Yeah, always here to help

try pirate4x4.com you could be waiting a long time for an answer here these days

so after 5 .5 years and I would have to speculate 175,000KM running max boost at 34PSI I have found a flaw


http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c292/arowland2/laminova/20150906_171243_zpsw2p76eyo.jpeg



It took you 5.5yrs to notice "NISSAN" under the crossover pipe? :shock:







:finger:

1000 rpm at 360:1 reduction will have your winch rotate slightly less than three turns per minute.
I suspect, you'll have plenty if epic tales of looooooooooooooong winch recoveries in the future


My cheapo winch has 250:1 reduction, but the electric motor spins at much more than 1000rpm, and it is ...

I think one problem with duals in a 40 would be drive line length. Your rear shaft will be getting very short and uni joints will be dealing with increased angles. May not be a problem, but worth looking at.

try searching Ih8mud.com, the yanks luuuurve their 40s, this will be a well trodden path ...

K&N filter is OK if you hate your engine! but sounds like its a Nissan, so carry on

Is the MAF before the intercooler? If so I would expect a boost leak would be screwing up fuel mixtures as the MAF is reading one thing, the engine is seeing another.

you can also do as christoffa suggests, but with 500ml of ULP, Or use a can of injetor cleaner.
but I'm tipping air or fuel filter obstruction, or air in the fuel system

start with basics first before shelling out clams on injectors etc

is the air filter clean/new?
is the fuel filter clean/new?
is there air getting into the fuel system? check this with a peice of clear PVC hose between fuel filter and fuel injection pump and poke it out through the bonnet like so ...

hey guys,
Has anyone heard about putting glass beads in your rims instead of wheel weights to balance them?

google is your friend


meanwhile, you'll get more help if you give more info.
eg What size tyres,
what type of rims,
what tyre construction, Radial or cross ply,
what have you tried ...

Stay clear of eBay unless you are certain they are NOT Chinese made IMO

Recently read about cromo CVs for womens. . . . errrm, IFS landcruisers on LCOOL

I was reading something in the latest 4wd action mag they were talking about putting an insert/sleeve in the panhard bar when replacing the bush to stop the bushes twisting on them self's, does anyone have any more info on this like inner diameter of insert?

cheers Shane


There's your first ...

Modifying something like a locker or operation of a locker takes one of the following

1. Mad skillz,
2. A certain amount of arrogance and dumb luck,
3. A certain amount if naivety and dumb luck,
4. Or $$$ to buy someone else's mad skillz

2 & 3 can leave you with expensive scrap metal, 4 can make ...

Also how did the welded front affect your friends steering?

Yes, it does affect steering, as any locker does when its locked, with hubs locked.

When off-road, you lock hubs only when you expect to need the locker. Ie, as you approach a difficult obstacle, you lock hubs, and unlock hubs after ...

know anyone who has had a "catastrophic" failure with a chinese locker?



Know anyone who's had a catastrophic failure with an ARB? What's aftersales service like on the Chinese rip off?

Horses for courses. What's your intended use of the Paj? Touring, weekend beater, beach fishing rig??

If its ...

At least I'm still willing to give things a try


If so, then rockcrawler's suggestion of welding the diff centre is actually a great solution
Cost virtually zero $$, if you smash the diff, get another from wreckers.

Off-road, simply engage 4x4, and lock both hubs, for dirt road between obstacles ...

Nittus wrote:You misunderstand Wicked.

$600 is what i paid for my car haha

Well then, put an ARB in it you'll triple the value. Add a full tank of fuel and you'll damn near quadruple it

$600 wagon? who gives a fuck, hit obstacles with enough momentum, you won't need a locker

Seriously?

You've seen a few complaints about one of the most widely used aftermarket difflocks, and you'd prefer to bank your money on the reliability of a Chinese copy of the ARB?

Have you seen any good reports on the Chinese copies?

I think I paid $700 for 4, and yeah, it stings when they're not right

How doe the EFS compare with Procomp shocks?
Similar price point.
I have Procomp shocks in mine and they are rubbish. Wwwwwaaaaayyyyy too soft for a heavy wagon, damping is totally inadequate

Std bushes have holes, just very small ones. If a little one works, a big one's bound to work betterer :D

Reason for me drilling out offset bushes is they are known to be stiffer, plus induce more stress on caster brackets on the diff. They're also blamed for cracking of the housing around the ...

Altered RA brackets on chassis.
18mm further forward.
You can just see outline of the original hole on the backside of the bracket

Drill through and continue spinning the bit till you melt the rubber and revulcanise the new hole.

Well timed comment dude!
I just fitted 3' offset bushes in the hunjy. Not a fan of the offset bushes, but definitely a fan of decent caster angles.

I always intended drilling the offset bushes to ...

rockcrawler31 wrote:Dave that's cool. I've seen it done on pootrols but I never even noticed it on yours.

yeah, it has a natural oxidised finish so it blends in stealth mode

Altered shock mounts in my 105series (80 almost identical)

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee187/mudgudgeon/IMAG0277.jpg

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee187/mudgudgeon/IMAG0276.jpg

Did similar with front shock towers. 60mm tube, holesaw through the mount, weld in tube, weld the cut ...

Or, do both :-) Milo's red truck had custom, 300mm?? longer RAs, which definitely play a part.

I reckon keep the rear sway bar in play, just need to improve link geometry.
With raised shock mounts on my 105, the rear sway bar stops rear articulation, but only at the very end of shock travel, and ...

I thought about trying to use some quick release spring loaded lynch pins on both ends of one link. Pull pins and remove one front link completely, leave the other side linked.

I think very short swaybar links is the main reason for disconnects not being used.

Go more boost for more air, keep EGTs low and AFRs lean.
Heat kills the 1HZs
In a diesel, more fuel equals more combustion heat. But more fuel plus more air is needed for more power. Combat the heat with more boost plus intercooler.
Factory turbo should be waste gated at about 13psi, I'd run it at ...

Sounds like a good list.

Radius arms will bind before front sway bar limits flex, spacing out caster brackets will help.
Also, the rear suspension is a lot softer than the front, so you might want to keep rear sway bar connected to make the front suspension work.

Also, I did a simple mod to raise ...