Outer Limits 4x4 Board

The best advice I can give:

Fit good tyres (ie, plenty of tread, good pattern with plenty of grip in sand or rocks, etc). That should help at least to keep you going forward.

A mate of mine stopped (not by choice) in Nolans Brook on the telegraph track recently, it got a bit wet inside. It's one ...

OK, back now from a two and a half week pounding on the Cape.

I travelled with two GQ patrols, one with Tough Dog shocks, and the other with something else (unknown).

We all suffered from shock fade at some point, but the corrugations were pretty severe in places. Basicly after a couple of hours ...

I thought the ride was good with OME, until I completely ripped out the old suspension, and replaced it with EFS now it rides like a car on the road, and handles heaps better offroad.



if you really think EFS rides better than OME,then that tells me two things,
you have a REALLY comfy lounge ...

I had Old Man Emu shocks on my Lux, after 18 months, the shocks were rooted. They leaked like a sieve. I thought the ride was good, until I completely ripped out the old suspension, and replaced it with EFS (torsion bars, shocks, rear leaves, shackles, bushes, damper, etc), now it rides like a car ...

I got a workshop manual (not the toyota one) but it's got a wiring diagram in it. I won't be back in Brisbane for about 3 weeks. I could scan it and send it then if you still need it.

OK, further to this thread.. It's taken me a few days to do anything more.

I seem to have fixed the leaky diff now. Where I thought the driveshaft lengths were different, they appear to be the same when fully assembled. That is, if you put them side by side, the ADD one is shorter, but assembled ...

all 4WD IFS systems are an on/offroad compromise biased fairly heavily towards on-road handling, comfort and safety. they do not generally perform well off-road, ....

I tend to disagree. IFS systems can be made to perform reasonably well offroad. You will never get the flex that can be achieved ...

3.0D - Good. 3.0TD - Heaps better.

shorty_f0rty wrote:does this class as 'wild'?

What the hell are you setting the winch up for? Just use more right foot and drive the hell out of there

kane077 wrote:Toyota diff? Cheese judging on how weak they are!

I thought they were made of ear wax.

I haven't had a chance to check this thread for a few days - I've been paid to go 4wd-ing around Gympie in a V8 Cruiser!!.

Anyway's, I have the original diff centre here (the one in my Lux has an airlocker in it). Looking at both shafts on the bench, they both go into the centre OK. but it appears ...

Anyone done it? Any tricks or ideas?

Reason I ask is I've been trying to sort this one out for a while. I've fitted freewheeling hubs, and locked the ADD actuator. However, there was a fair bit of slop in the actuator.

I purchased a LH side inner driveshaft and tube (well two of them actually) and ...

I believe they were located at Coomera somewhere. There used to be an address on their website

Or the Cabac ones. Haymans or Ideal sell them, but not sure of the $$$. I think the ratcheting ones are more or less the same (with a few exceptions) provided you set the tension right.

Hi T_Diesel..

Yeah, generally when you make your own looms it works out cheaper. And generally when you make your own looms, it usually works out better anyway as you can get the lengths right, and use good quality parts. I think when it's for yourself, you tend to take the time to get it right ...

I think to be compliant with Qld Transport, you need to be able to isolate them altogether.

Hi Micky, the switches are 3 position type, ON/OFF/ON, just not indicated in the diagrams

Hey drivesafe

That makes sense in those diagrams. Probably something to be aware of more than anything, is that ...

Went to the auto elecs today to pick up a relay and some terminals. He suggested rather than running a 40W relay, run a 30W relay for each light and just split the signal from the switch to 86 on each relay.

I guess it really doesn't make that much difference, just a little more effort and expense ...

only problem with those two diagrams is that in either case, you can turn them on/off with the high beam, or on permanently with the switch.

I think to be compliant with Qld Transport, you need to be able to isolate them altogether. To do this, in the top diagram, don't connect the yellow 2mm ...

If you use the 40A relay, you shouldn't have any problems. I think they also sell the relay holders too if your wiring is stuffed.

You should be able to just beef up the wiring from the battery to the relay, then the relay to the lights, and then from the lights to ground. I normally just run the ...

Supercrap have them. How many lights and what wattage are you looking at running off the relay?

The reason I ask, is that they sell a cheaper one rated at 30A, which is fine for a pair of 100W spotties, I had it running 4x100W lights on the roof. The current was roughly 33.33A, which was marginally ...

Airbags??

If you're worried about the steering wheel or dash hitting you in the face in a crash, then don't crash. Simple.

Regarding the new 79 V8's, I've got one as a work vehicle. It has uprated suspension (ARB - absolute crap), and an XL service body on the back. The last time it was weighed in with full fuel, water, and me in the drivers seat, it topped the scales at just on 3600kg's. (with the uprated suspension ...

I found if you pack too much grease in the hubs, it will cause problems also..

I had new EFS leaves, shackles and ubolts on the Lux not too long ago. The guys at Carrolls told me 70ft-lbs. They torqued them for me at 70, and I haven't had one come undone yet (after about 2000 kays - probably 50-50 on/off road).

The workshop manual says 120nm which is about 88.5 foot pounds ...

Anything that is illegal as far as the RTA or Transport Dept is concerned will deem your car unroadworthy, and hence void your insurance.

I wouldn't say the L series are "hopeless"...

Maybe not terribly mind-blowing, but not hopeless.

I must say, I didn't have to worry about the ECU on mine. I've got the semi-submersible (non-E) version.

I just noticed this post:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/ft ... highlight=

Might be something to look into...

Hey thehanko,

I've got 32" Maxxis Bighorns, and standard 4.56 diffs. Yep, definately 3000rpm @ 100km/h.

I've got a denco turbo kit (Schwitzer S1B turbo, mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust straight from the turbo, single hotdog, no muffler, K&N filter, snorkel, etc, etc), and I find I make more horsepower ...

Yep, it sounds exactly like what I described. Check your tread depths, and try putting slightly more in the rear (1-2psi at first) and see if it's better or worse.

Is your transfer a manual type, or the electric actuator type (ie the push button on the side of the shifter)?

If you try and select 4wd on the move on terrain that is hard packed, for example, you'll get that to some degree because of the minute differences in diameter on your front to rear tyres ...