Outer Limits 4x4 Board

or a manifold and carbs

def90 wrote:true, but i have gone to thhis extent on stroking the motor, so i want to extract everything i can out of it. surely they can't be that bad

A few of the D90 rovers are running 4.6s with the 4.2 RR computer, even better with a tuned chipset.

v8 auto on lpg ?

I am using a re-cored disco radiator for mine, has the cooler in the radiator as well as the pipe cleaner in front of the rad.

Corgie Carrier wrote:To use the 4.6 crank in a 3.9, what rods do you use?

What other things do you have to change?

I am looking at some way to give my 3.9 a bit more stick, but haven't heard about using a 4.6 crank, what capacity does that give you?

Neale

use the 4.6 rods and pistons, gives you a 4.6

3.5, has it been sleeved to 3.9 bore size?

pull the plugs out and crank it, minimal load on the bearings with no compression. If there isnt any sign of pressure in a reasonable amount of cranking you may have to prime the pump.

Had a look on your site, looks interesting but if the public cant see anything worthwhile they wont join or add to it. Im didnt join so I dont know if there is anything worth joining for, but maybe if the public can see your project it might help. Someone who started a forum gave me advice, as I ...

the rover breathers are connected to manifold vacuum, some carb fittings are not full vacuum, so you wont get enough vacuum to remove the crankcase pressure, shouldnt matter which covers you use as long as they are connected to the right vacuum source.

An experienced engine builder on one of the UK forums stated that most of the engines that head gaskets failed on were using stretch bolts which had lost there elasticity and were not retaining the heads, he recommends either the earlier type bolts or preferably a stud kit.

The later 4.0 is the ...

One of these days I'm going to the UK for a holiday and bringing back a container of defender doors and bulkheads. Too expensive and hard to find down here. About 350 GBP for brand new take offs, the shipping is the hard bit.

35s will be unsuitable with the 1.210 transfers, dont want to have to change gearing or lift any further. I have 31s which are good, but wanted something just a little larger.

thanks guys, the MTRs seem to be a better price too. I would prefer to stick with the rims I have if I can, I have two sets of Cheviot 15 x8s but I could wait for a while and get some 16s, I have some near new 31/ 10.5 Duellers at present so could keep them for a bit longer. I have Silverstone 117s ...

Looking at fitting some 33s to my 110, just wondering on others experiences with the common brands, most likely BFG ATs or wrangler MTRs at present, will be my daily driver in the near future so need to know a bit about road manners and noise also, any comments appreciated. Thanks.

as per this thread a couple of weeks ago
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic139285.php



http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-Air-flow-mas ... m153.l1262[[/url]

Rubber doughnuts were popular in the 70s with cortinas etc having them, they are better that they dont transmit vibration like a UJ but they arent intended for a large angle such as when a disco is lifted.

what sort of problems, engine problems or efi problems? I am just about to fit a 3.9 to my 110, but will be keeping the strombergs and LPG

easy upgrade is the 3.9 cam but really the options are endless. Lots of info on here http://www.v-8.org.uk/forum/index.php

wtaer wont affect 12v as much as it will the HT side of things, so most likely getting water on the coil or the dissy, they also get condensation in the dissy cap after getting wet, sometimes needs drying a few times.

might be enough current to light the test lamp but not run the motor, I have a cheap ECU if you need one.

some of those bolts also go into the water jacket in the block, I usually put some thread sealer on the threads before fitting those.

personally I would have used the back half of a series 109

so its either the main light switch or the feed to it.

If he wants part time it is simple, but I dont think that was the intention

The reason behind this is there are 2 shafts (1 inside the other) from the centre diff that go into the VC. Because the centre one is the drive from the other side of the centre diff and going through to the rear diff, and the outer shaft is what drives the front diff, if the VC is removed and ...

If it was a ford I would say unnecessary for that lift, although it does reduce isideways loads on the valve and less wear. However I am not a Rover expert so wouldnt like to say, though a suggestion here is that it wouldnt be necessary http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2279&highlight ...

Thinking about it, if this centre diff is used in any other transfer cases there may be one that is manually locked, so the dog may already exist, if you can find the borg warner part number for the diff you may be able to find if it is used in any others.

sounds like you would be better off with a new set of rims for off road and some road tyres, much safer and only half the work when you want to offroad.

Have a look at this http://www.4x4community.com/forum/attac ... 1188291644

TRW in the States used to do rebuild kits, it would be for a Buick 215, I havent seen any for the Rover from any UK outlets, just individual components. Maybe try one of the performance centres, like VPW.