Outer Limits 4x4 Board

providing the job is as simple as it sounds ie. nothing needs to be ground because it is too hard to machine as mentioned, you should budget somewhere around $500+ for the whole lot. its not cheap by any means but its not something that many places will touch either. wire cutting on its own wouldn't ...

gears and shafts will be hard, can be machined to some extent with the right inserts. EDM would be the go for the spline. Even wire cutting would be an option. I do alot of this sort of stuff for work if you have any questions. Like already mentioned it wouldnt be real cheap, you might be suprised ...

ive had to get 2 for different reasons lol but they were both brand new, 400 from a radiator place, both had toyota printed on them and looked 100% the same as the original. never had a cooling or reliability issue with either of them

its completely different to mig and arc, as in the difficulty and the way you should go about it. If you have no idea how to weld alloy, get someone who does to show you the basics and teach yourself from there. there is a few important things you prob wont work out for yourself. you will have no ...

im currently assisting a mate out in a conversion 2jz into a 94 hilux (loves turbos) id like to know what would be the best box to run behind it and what bellhousing is needed , it is a 4wd but its going to be more of a road car cheers hixi from what ive been told a 2jz will probably just destroy ...

i have done it a few times ( i am a machinist). its really very easy. as already said, dont attemp it without a lathe because it wont work. Dont cut the yolk straight off the end either, they have a section that locates in the inside of the tube that you dont want to cut off. The tube usually tapers ...

80's_delirious wrote:the tapered hole in the pitman arm would be around the wrong way, would it not?

X2 it wont work, taper would be wrong way

my ln106 has a dodgey sensor which causes the brake light to come on all the time. Give it a couple taps or fiddle with it a bit and it comes good for couple days then it comes back. I just live with it or disconnect it lol

this one
not finshed but you get the idea. roll bars etc will be tube

not finished but you get the idea

300+ US each plus shipping or get them locally = pricey or try and make some which is the route in going down Ive made alot of dies (through work) and a few very big ones at that, I dont use them but they are for a company that specialises in tube bending etc. so its very possible and much cheaper ...

if you have trouble getting a box, pm me. i have one here that is the right one

the search function is a bit hit and miss. lossen off your radiator hoses and your intake ones( whatever other hoses connected to your cab and motor) loosen the ends of your steering shaft at both ends so it can move freely, you should get the length out of it but an extension wouldnt hurt. You wont ...

I use all of these materials everyday and firstly, yes you can cut gears from some plastics i do it all the time. Some plastics are that hard they actually chip and or break in half when machining.The hardest material isnt always the best option for everything :roll: Whether you use plastic/steel or ...

i personally wouldnt weld anything with an arc but thats me. For this i would mig it. I use a tig every day but i wouldnt use one for this, unless you know what your doing, good at doing it and have a good enough tig to do it otherwise its a waste of time and you will do more damage than good

Use a mig. the other ways are outdated ways of welding, they have their purposes but this is not it.

It is a good idea to brace it. just buy the mounting kit from locktup4x4.

Assuming its a solid axle? depends on how far you want to go with the lift? 2'' springs with 2'' body lift should just clear 33's and leave the rest of the car relitively unchanged. Go any bigger or higher and its starts to get a bit more complicted and expensive. with that said do the body lift and ...

loosen your steering shaft off at both ends, undo the hose clamps etc coming off your air box and radiator so the pipes can twist. your gear stick may need some attention after so it doesnt pop out of gear(i bent mine slightly to make it work, i think if you take the bottom boot out it may help also ...

taking all this into account, ill think ill work to the 10-15 litre mark and it should be good enough for what i want. Thanks for the help

the ARB compressor's flow rate is about 62lpm under load. How do you work it out? compressor cuts out at about 100psi so does the size of the tank really matter?

ah fair enough. I have the new ARB compressor (the big one, not the locker one) not sure what the flow rate is off the top of my head though. thanks for your help

from experience how many litres makes a good size air tank? I am going to make one but unsure of a suitable size. Whats too big or too small? will be running air lockers, big tyres etc

a good fix for hilux centre bearing is when they are new or still in good nick remove from car,locate the holes in the rubber tube that surrounds the bearing mount,inject it with sikaflex and leave to cure for 2-3 days [thats why i use a new one before you have to fit it] and it will only fail when ...

from what i found a single piece seems to be the way to go, i was destroying centre bearings all the time too.I cut up my old 2 piece shaft and made a single piece one out of it. mine only has the standard slip yoke in it but a long travel yoke one would be the go depending on how far you are goin ...

You honestly cant go wrong with the total tools brand, we have some of their stuff at work (machine shop) and it cops an absolute hiding (especially the socket sets). we have had a couple of meters of RHS hanging off the end of one of their 1/2" ratchets and about a 35mm socket or something and a ...

[quote="ferrit"]pretty pricey- i was getting quotes of $350 S/H and $550 New here in adelaide when killed mine.
[quote]

Thats about the same as i was quoted for mine, not a cheap exercise

I think thats about right. I bought one a few months ago for $250, no pitman arm or shaft extension though.

the rust itself isnt hard to get rid of, wire brush, lightly polish with sandpaper, wire wheel on grinder somethin like that. If the rust has corroded the steel enough to leave big pits to the point that its going to collect dirt or let stuff inside the hub, then i would look at doing something. bit ...

have you looked at locktup4x4?