Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Push down on the CV a little and wiggle it around from side to side a bit this will lift the end of the axle. Try to rotate it back and forth a little to allight the splines.

Oh OK, so it is the bouncing experienced while driving offroad is it? how could I have been so silly. The only problem with your little theory is this, At the moment all 3 sets of mounts broken the car was just about stationary. The first two released while climbing rocks in low range and the thrid ...

What about driving the charger?

The early toyota indirected injection engines are murder on their oil, even a brand new engine will turn it black in no time. Don't worry there is nothing wrong. Just make sure you change your oil ever 5000 k's (filter at 10,000 k's). If you are still worried do an oil sample test, it'll give you a ...

There is a specified RPM at which the test should be preformed, so plugs in or out shouldn't matter as long as you turn the engine at the correct speed.

I looked at the turbo option and these are some of the avenues. 1.Find a 13BT turbo manifold from a wrecker. It will bolt straight on (bearing in mind there is a 2 and 3 stud pattern for exhaust manifolds). I couldn't find one or find a wrecker willing to seperate the manifold from the engine. The ...

Okay were are we getting the vertical movement from? As I see it the problem is this, As you said the torque reaction tries to turn the block, now the mounts are aligned so this force acts squarely on the mounts, but when the mount on the compression side will compress no further it then becomes the ...

Badgers right. Just because I claim to be a tradesman doesn't mean anything, I could be anyone, Anyone on here could be anyone. Which is why I stress to everyone take anything your read here or on any other forum with a pinch of salt. Sadly unless you know someone on here that you really trust I ...

I am in the process of doing this at the moment, It isn't an easy task. If I had my time over again I would have gone the turbo option for sure but at the time I was sucked in by the lure of low revs boost and a flatter torque and power curve. Luckily I have a very good mate who is a fitter & turner ...

I was quite amused to read about badgers bouncing engines, have you had much experience with bouncing engines? I can't say that I've ever encountered a bouncing engine. Does this bouncing you speak of cause much engine stress. I can recall many hours of study on engines and many courses but never a ...

It's probably a good thing that I'm a diesel fitter then and not an english teacher.

Or maybe these cars don't deal with the sorts of torques loads experienced by a diesel 4WD with a low range gear. Sorry I forgot that posting regularly on an internet forum makes you an expert on the distribution and dampening of engine loads.

To be perfectly honest the more answers I get that actually address the question I have asked the better, I wasn't aware that there was a limit on the number of relevant answers a post was allowed to recieve, because there certainly isn't a limit on unrelevant answers to questions never posed. As ...

NO mud4b the thick comment was not directed at you. It was directed at z()ltan in response to his comments. He seems to be having trouble accepting that he is posting a response to a question that was never asked, I wasn't asking for advice on reinforcing engine mounts. I understand that most people ...

I was going to leave it at that but since you've decided to be a childish little prick here goes. While chaining an engine and solid mounting are not the same thing what do you think happens when the chain is pulled tight (I thought I should ask you since I'm so thick)? You lose all dampning effect ...

Prehaps if you bothered to read any of the other posts my last one might make a bit more sense to you. I don't need some amateur banging on at me about the half arsed job he has done. If you had read my original post you may have realised that I was asking if anyone else had had the same failure ...

I can't believe you are telling people to solid mount their engines. Anybody who has done this should undo it ASAP. Your rubber engine mounts act as dampners for shock torque loads, without these the entire torsional shock load is being absorbed by your engine components( It would be a bit like ...

I don't know what your doing wrong but I must be doing it twice as wrong because I'm breaking them with the power of a 3B with 310,000KM's on the clock. How are the genuine ones holding up?

Again I will ask the question, Have you ever seen a 3B running at idle?

I don't mind paying for genuine ones (at cost price), But I don't want to fork out that much coin and find out that they are as useless as the cheap aftermarket ones.

Limiting chains, you've obviously never seen a 3B at idle. After 5 minutes there wouldn't be a bolt left on the car or a tooth left in my head.

You are correct RUFF, I should choose my word more carefully. TAP the shaft with a hammer.

There shouldn't be oil in your hubs, If it is oil leaking out it is coming from your diff, you will have to do inner axle seals.

-Turn the wheel full lock to one side and mark the top of the wheel. -Then go lock to lock and count how many turns it is. -Turn the wheel back half the number of turns it is from lock to lock, this is the center of your box. -With the box on center remove the wheel and replace it so it is straight ...

The tighter the joint the bigger the shock has to be that's all. I use this technique to pop the tapers on semi's when the nut has been torqued to 500NM, Of course this requires a much larger hammer. I'm the first person who will advise against just randomly belting stuff with a hammer, but you won ...

I have just torn my second set of new engine mounts. Just wondering if anyone else has had this trouble with aftermarket mounts. I might have to fork out for genuine and see if they are any better.

Maybe I'm missing something here but I change these almost daily with only a hammer. Hit the loop on the end of the swivel housing arm. Give it a good belt with a lump hammer and it will pop straight out not worries.

Don't quote me on this I'm only going from memory here but I don't think you can speedy sleeve it, The splines are larger than the running surface so you can get the sleeve past them. But i'm not 100% on that.

The 3F is better engine for offroad work. The commodore engine is more top end power and any work to get more power from it usually ends up robbing it from down low and adding it to the top end. Personally I'd save myself ALOT of money and heart ache and rebuild the 3F. It is a thristy bastard but ...

Sorry mate don't want to miss lead you into buying new CV's if you don't have to. Pull the axles out first and check the running surface of the inner seal. If it does have a groove in it then you will have to replace the inner axle. The axles are relatively cheap compared to a whole new CV and it is ...