Outer Limits 4x4 Board

date wrote:Sorry - I have run our of ideas. .

Hey thanks for the input, I appreciate it.

On the basis that it is in fact a chemical current, I will give it a dose of chemiweld, or the like to see if coating the internals reduces the current, and then a higher quality coolant.

date wrote:
Check your mate's vehicle(s) - you will probably find similar readings with them as well.

And there is the problem, I have 2 almost identical vehicles and the other barely registers any voltage from radiator water to earth.

[quote="date" It is possible that you have a stray 12V connection somewhere onto the cooling system (maybe the temperature gauge or an engine watchdog alarm?) and that is leaking current into the system, but even then I would hope that the insulated mounts on your radiator would prevent any stray ...

I started from scratch today, drained new coolant, put an alkaline flush through the system, thorough flush and refill with demineralised water. I think it is now worse, and the cooling system still holds .79v with the battery removed. The cooling system is generating current and it's doing my head ...

With battery disconnected, engine block to radiator coolant is still 0.47 which is confusing me. :crazyeyes: two dissimilar metals (iron, aluminium) and an ionic solution connecting them, with your meter across both metals = a battery. Which confuses the issue of searching for stray current when ...

Check the voltage difference between the engine block and the battery earth terminal and also the radiator metal. I would expect maybe 100 mV difference between the radiator and the engine block. If you get minimal difference between the radiator and the block, you have an electrical connection ...

Any one here have any real time experience with stray current corrosion in radiators? I have just got 3 months and 3500 km's out of a new ally core radiator before it sprung a leak. The supplier is adamant that the cause is stray current, even loaning me his tester which did show current at ...

A recent discussion on engine got me looking closer at engine oil again. What engine oil are you using in your turbo diesels? brand, grade, oil change schedule, any other relevant comments.


Edit: Same with oil filters, are you buying on price or specification or other?

I've never seriously considered a Jeep before (for no particular reason) however when browsing adds I was looking at a KJ 2.8TD auto and got me wondering what they are like. Out side of the brand bullshit, is there anything inherently wrong with the 2.8 TD and auto and that model vehicle?

As a follow up: I pulled all the glow plugs out again (NGK Y-701J) yesterday, confirmed all had a resistance of between 1.2 - 1.3 range and element condition was visually good. I bought and tested a new set, same range as the old set! fitted them anyway and fired the old girl up this morning and she ...

My courier 2.5 TD has just began running rough on cold and cool start up, a little grey/pale smoke but settles down to a good idle within 5 seconds and runs fine there after. I initially thought glow plugs and pulled them out for a visual, and they were all in great condition, and all in the 1.2-1 ...

My courier 2.5 TD has just began running rough on cold and cool start up, a little grey/pale smoke but settles down to a good idle within 5 seconds and runs fine there after. I initially thought glow plugs and pulled them out for a visual, and they were all in great condition, and all in the 1.2-1.3 ...

I wasn't aware Cat made batteries, I would have given them a go if I had known, oh well in another 2 years.

What is your average battery life? my last 2 batteries have run for about 3 years and both went from good cranking batteries to nothing, with no warning. Currently what are the most respected/reliable brands?

Turbo Tonka wrote:i had 1 1litre zuk out of 6 zuks lol. had a similar geared 1.3 on same size tyres etc and my opinion is that the 1 litre was a better rig,it went well.

+1 I had 1.0l and 1.3l but my preference was always the 1.0l.

My old 1.0 litre LWB would do 115 flat out but would sit on 105 all day, it really was a little champ.

I had a LWB 1.0l for 19 years, it was the greatest little rig that I ever owned, cruised happily at 105kph. I preferred the 1.0l over the 1.3 litre, just nicer gearing with less gear changing. Only got rid of it because I needed 4 doors.

Any one here know the where abouts of the diesel fuel pump relay? or an online wiring diagram? I'm just helping a mate with a stopped rodeo and none of the fuel pump solenoids are clicking. It's also got an immobiliser key that he said never gets used, and I'm wondering if that has any connection ...

What coolant do you use? I have been using BP coolant, Nulon, Tectaloy 60 and some genuine but would like to run one coolant across all vehicles. Just interested.

Cheers, I did think of the landcruiser problem but the gearbox oil was at the correct level and transfer case was low. Since topping it up and degreasing it there has been no sign of leaking oil, which has got me stumped. the only other thing I did was put the hubs in free wheel ( always leave them ...

Anyone familiar with the 2000 courier transfer case and where the breather is located? Yesterday I noticed oil drops on the paving, was shocked to see my usually dry transfer case oily and oil residue blown back on the fuel tank. Had a closer look this morning, the trans case is all oil damp ( not ...

I don't know anything about them but by coincidence I was just talking to a friend in the trade and he was telling me about the importance of the correct oils for modern diesels because incorrect oils can result or contribute to blocked particulate filters.

Can anyone tell me the cylinder head tension for an 18R engine please?

Thanks, everyone, what sort of time and dollars is he looking at to have the job done?

I think that is the only timing belt I have seen encased like that.

A young bloke at work has a 95 disco TDI and has been told timing belt is due for replacing, I'm not familiar with these engines but a quick look under the bonnet and I saw nothing related to a timing belt engine. What is the drive on these engines, belt, chain or gear?

FACT : if you regulary drive at 100km/hr with a 1ltr 4 spd you will kill your motor I would say sit on no more than 85-90km/hr for extended highway driving at 90 your engine is reving at about 4600rpm with redline being about 5000rpm. So do you really want to be driving your car at redline ? The ...

...then find when you pull the lead out the plastic end is stuck to the spark plug....seen it way too many times. Yes spent many hours digging out plastic bits with a scribe and vacuum cleaner with a smaller hose taped to it, I think that problem happens with most brands if not replaced often ...

I need a set of ignition leads for the vitara, could only find a bosch set at super cheap and they were for a swift at $ 84.00

Any clues as to what brand to get and what to pay, $84.00 sounds like a hit to me, surely people arn't paying $20 a lead !

cheers

ScrawnC wrote:I wonder how a Victa or a Briggs and Stratton conversion would go??.....

That would make a good project, what's the most perverse engine conversion for your sierra!

They are not high tensile, I just tighten them by hand but then I'm pretty confident with how tight things should be.