Outer Limits 4x4 Board

In my experience, the best thing you can do for most electric windows in cars from that era is leave the old switches in place, but wire in relays to run the window motors. Then the switches are just there to trip the relays. Of course this depends on exactly what's wrong but most commonly it is ...

They look good. I don't think I have the depth available for internal ballasts though. Having said that I think I ahve seen almost the same housing without a ballast at the back.

What's the current state of the art with cheap HID gear? I want to put together some driving lights for outback highway use - ie, I want to be able to see a fair way ahead. I am leaning towards cheap Chinese HID with external ballasts plus some fairly compact housings (necessary for the fitting ...

I agree with Scott's explanation. The extra load on the alternator is simply making the engine work harder. Headlights and heater blower are pretty much the biggest current draws in the whole electrical system.

One of the early leaf-sprung models probably. And 40" rims were standard!

I somehow have this idea that stainless is pretty much always noisier all else being equal. Is this right or have I been misinformed?

You may just need a non-load sensitive flasher relay. Stock relays are usually load-sensitive, and they are designed to flash faster so that you can see when a globe has blown.

It's weird that it only happens with one side though.

hey guys been searching like mad sooo much out there to shift through thanks for the info keep it rolling, i found these on ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BRAND-NEW-MUD-TERRAIN-TYRES-31-10-5-15-31x10-50r15-discounted-190-each-/320958256492?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aba9a556c and looks ...

Best cheap tyres I got were 33" goodyear wranglers. They cost me $500 for four of them. They were used - about 80% left though. Looking out for a reasonable 2nd hand set is one option. The other option is not to get a cheap set, but just to bite the bullet and get a good set. Unless you end up just ...

Come the week end I'll throw the multimeter over everything and see what happens. Might end up going and buying some H1 and H4 connectors and solder them in. If you are going to do this, you could consider wiring in relays and a new run of cable. The stock wiring is nearly always sub-optimal and ...

-Scott- wrote:

Clanky wrote:

-Scott- wrote:It is normal for the battery voltage to drop several volts during cranking.

There is always a voltage drop with cranking, however 'several' volts will definitely be a problem

I disagree.

Me too; imho dropping to 9-10V would be pretty normal when cranking.

I guess this is pretty lame but I always like looking at this custom air intake I cobbled together for a Rover V8 motor in a tight space. This is what the air intake looked like when it was carburetted: http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb109/anthropoidape/stagengine_carb.jpg When I converted to ...

This may assist:

I have a different brand of smart charger so I don't know what functions you might mean... but fwiw I use mine when the battery is still fully hooked up to the car. Mine might be more basic than yours - it basically just has a "charge" mode for a battery that's low and then a "maintain" mode that it ...

Just out of curiosity how will you deal with the fact that the output is AC? Could a rectifier from an alternator be used? A few years ago I read about people adapting alternators to generate wind power... I thought it sounded like an interesting project. I guess with those you could adjust the ...

I know there was a problem with P38A rangies when they were parked at airports and similar. It was to do with their factory alarm system responding to various signals in the area. I can't recall the specifics but it was a big issue. I think you may be right that smart meters have bluetooth and they ...

I admit that is pretty nice looking stuff.

I wouldn't want to have to do the adjusting to make it work right though... it's just not something I ever seem to get right!

I *think* these usually have their own timer on board or operate from heat or some such, so you should be okay with just a wire to +12V (something that comes on with ignition).

Carbies. Pfft.

The tank may be full beyond the low point of the filler neck. but i wouldnt have expected that to cause fuel to flow out? Seeing your photo now, I think it could if there was a pressure build up. Pressurised gas will be above the liquid fuel in the tank and the filler hose becomes the best way for ...

If you don't get a reply soon PM killalux on this forum, he should be able to help as this kind of thing is his business (I think).

I may be wrong but i was under impression that hose was how the pump knew the tank was full. If you mean the pump at the bowser... no, bowsers have a small tube in the dispenser that senses when the tank is full and cuts off the flow. Its quite possible that it will blow out alot of fuel. had it ...

Even if there's no breather, it still sounds a bit weird to me to have fuel coming out of the filler. A big whoosh of vapour maybe, when you open the cap, but not fuel. It doesn't add up for me. I have one idea, it might be stupid but... could the in-tank fuel pump or some of its plumbing have come ...

Pressurising usually means it's not venting. If you don't have a breather then that could be an issue. Some older vehicles have a vent in the fuel filler cap; you can try leaving the cap off or having a small hole in it. I had a car that was fuel injected but was still old enough to have a vented ...

That's awesome. I actually bought a vacuum one ages ago, but I find it pretty shit. I think I'll copy your idea next time I need to do brakes.

Same here, thanks Scott. I guess what I was thinking, and I think you confirmed it, is that if the solar set up is a bit marginal but not too bad, then it's not that hard to compensate for it with the alternator, at least for some types of camping situation.

The best one I have heard of is "Forever Black". I actually bought some over ebay from the US because it gets such a good rap. Seems okay. http://www.foreverblack.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I couldn't find a local stockist at the time but maybe there are some now.

... if you can find a wrecker with them try finding a volvo 850 alternator, 120A...? Just something I noticed browsing ebay just now.

You may not believe this but my method that has never failed to get a pulley off* is - hold the pulley in my hand and use the rattle gun on the nut. I've never needed the allen key because of the way rattle guns work. *I have done this about 10-20 times, not 1000s of times or anything. With the ...

if you are worried about time to recharge get a alternator with a higher output, mine is 180amps vs standard of 85. The alternator is unlikely to be the limiting factor in the charge rate for the battery. In most automotive charging systems the batttery is effectively self-regulating - it will only ...

How hard is it to swap the pulleys, will any just slide on? From what I've seen most are a simple swap over with the right number of washers/shims to space the pulley correctly. The only issue with this is you need a specialised tool to remove most pulleys, or you risk damaging the pulley. So it ...