Outer Limits 4x4 Board

If the hoses are gettin a bit soft or ratty looking its worth changing them and keeping the old ones as spares. Also a good idea to give the radiator a good flush and take it out for a decent wash of the vanes as the turbo will add a bit more heat to the mix. Also good to check the condition of the ...

Yours would have a L or 2L diesel? in which case powersteering from a 3L or 2LTE will suit

install instructions can be found on the locktup and or trail-gear website. for highsteer u use the IFS powersteering box only, powersteering pump will be the same or useable.

Sounds like a nice rig A1 mech. Any photos. In the process off doing my lux ATM. He is only running 33's as well which is why I feel he don't need cv's. I agree with you bout not having to worry if you ever want or need to boot it. Also what diff ratio are you running A1mech what brand? Why not put ...

yeah ok a1 mech sounds good mate... like i said i just got the winch off a mate.. came with the steel rope... dont really know too much about them and whats involved in changing ropes O ok, ropes going cheap from the states at the moment, simple task of winding off the cable and making a swing for ...

Never said you did mate, others and myself suggested earlier on. I also have lockers, duals with 4.7's, turbo and 36's and the best mod was to fit longfield gear to the front axle. Its good to be able to put your foot into it without worrying, now I just detonate crownwheels at about 700rpm lol. The ...

IMO If you go reduction gears then you need better CV's and Axles, High steer is a great idea but only if your lift and travel warrant it.

A lack of front locker is all the more reason for better CV's in my opinion

See how the H/D packs go, you may find them very stiff. I would have just gone rope on the winch and used normal packs. My 12000lb winch with rope only weights 25KG so it makesa big difference.

I'v done some pretty serious rocks with my runner and the standard diesel tank and guard have never caused me any dramas. If the tank wasnt there the next item to take the brunt is the tailshaft which is alot more critical then a dint in the tank bashplate. If you have a bodylift and mount a tank as ...

My 4runner had a jackaroo tank up under the back as the second tank when I bort it, fitted in very well between the chassis rails. The spare tyre and its crossmember have to come out in order to get it mounted as high as possible. Im pretty sure the V6 and diesel 4runner tanks are the same? Y not ...

As others have said, Lockers, CV/axles, 4.7 gears. With whatever you have left over look into gettin some flexy leafs and decent shocks and moving mounts around to get it all working. IMO going coil on a hilux is a waste of money, there is that many off the shelf kits these days which will give ...

I would go the 3RZ personally, they are EFI, 2.7L DOHC with a square bore so they have good torque. U shud be able to pick up a package with complete engine, lume and ECU for around 2k. But if u are on a tight budget a carby 22R will possibly bolt straight in, best bet is to do some google searching ...

Id be pulling it down to check, better to redo it then to replace parts if they wear out from incorrect fitment.

Where on the Gold Coast are you located?

O so u can't pull the cv/axle out far enough. U mite hav to rotate the axle via the tail shaft as u try and pull it out, it may take a fair amount of force to get it to slide out of the spindle enough so maybe a big flat blade with a hammer. Giv the bolthead screwed into the cv some outward taps ...

That seems like another patch up job which would just fail and need replacing over time, why wouldn't they just use a heavier wastegate that has a few different mounting positions on the actuator rod so you can change the boost to suit the application. IMO an adjustable bleed valve is a better ...

Iv never seen a turbo wastegate plumbed that way but I can see what its supposed to achieve, obviously the wastegate is of a low pressure so they are trying to cheaply bleed off air to get it to stay shut longer. If you look on that actuator rod there might be another mounting hole which will allow ...

22RE or 3RZ would be the best options, it will have a great power to weight ratio with a 3RZ fitted, the gen1's were quite light if I remember correctly. Not sure but 18R and 22R should share a similar block so it may be a bolt in job, 3RZ is nto very hard at all to adapt and I believe there are ...

The wastegate probably only allows a low boost setting so they have tried to raise the max boost pressure buy doing this. I'd just fit a proper boost bleed valve.

Id try a thicker oil 10W is a bit thin for an older diesel IMO. Any decent mechanic should be able to diagnose where and what the noise is, tappets might need a shim or 2. Could also be a pulley bearing in the front.

I have no idea why they set it up like that. Block that pre turbo fitting off and use it for menthyl injection if u ever fit it

If u dont have faith in them dont own one, simple. No motor lasts forever especially if they are treated like crap.

Shouldn't be any differences in dimensions with the locktup kit, I have the same kit fitted and it all went in fine.

Id replace the circlips, if you remove them with a screw driver or other methods they will often bend out of shape. Better off to buy some decent flat edged circlip pliers.

A knocking that speeds up and down with the revs could be a few things. Whats the mileage on the motor and how often have you changed the oil? It could be a tappet sound which is normally caused by lack of or poor oil. Maybe change with some decent 20w60 to see if it goes away. Worst case is it will ...

Yours is the 5L mechanical engine isnt it?

All I can see happening is the wastegate getting a higher pressure sooner thus opening it earlier which will lower your boost pressure.

Maybe take a quick photo and upload just so we can confirm.

The wastegate actuator line normally connects to a fitting in the compressor housing or front spout of the turbo. It doesn't need to go anywhere else in less there is a boost T in the line which may bleed its air pre turbo. From wat u describe with the plumbing u would leak boost thru the T piece ...

heres my advice , if it didnt come out of the factory turbo'd dont touch it 2.8's do big ends in stock form let alone turbo'd form id save my money and leave it alone. what motor doesnt do bigends if it isnt maintained? It all comes down to maintenance which alot of people dont do then whinge that ...

Dont get me wrong, I know the standard 5link works ok, Mine used to hav it but I like doing things backwards to most, Got rid of my rear steer in a different way too Doug ;) Pretty much If I was doing a coil swap in the rear Id go the extra mile and set it up with one of Buddys flash 9.5" diff IFS ...

If your going to fit a coil rear IMO u shud set it up with longer lowers and a A frame or triangulated upper setup so u can delete the panhard. The standard 4runner/surf 5link control arms are to short once you fit decent length coils, The rear steer is insane on travel and you will need to do some ...

Hmm this sounds like fun

I recently fitted a new V6 C&P set to my diesel carrier with a RD132 locker, There is a bearing size, possibly you have used the wrong bearings?