Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Apparently 555 joints are the go. Repco got mine for me last time, and I paid the regular price for them. Theyre reluctant to do the same for me again, in fact I'm still waiting on the phone call from November to say that theyre in..

Thats what I did, half a 80 rag joint and half a large spline 70 joint to mate the 55 column to the 70 intermediate shaft.

shorty_f0rty wrote:Also, is the spline on the end of the 40 series rag joint compatible with that on the 7x intermediate shaft?

No. The 70 male spline is smaller.

That's what I meant by sleeving the 15mm pin to 18mm, I suspect I would have to get something machined to do this with.. If I did this I would just run 55 bushings as they are the correct length..

I realised this problem with the zook parts. I pressed the bushings into the eye with the press. When you put a 35mm bushing into a 30mm hole, it shrinks. The ID of the bushing shrinks accordingly, therefore needing to be opened up to accept the 15mm pin. This is a temporary measure only, while I ...

I'll check them out, thanks..

55 springs have 30mm eyes.. 55s have 18mm pins. I have an early small pin 40. Hilux spring eyes are 30mm with 18mm pins also..

I pressed some 35mm 60 bushings in there and bored them to 15mm for now till I can find a better solution..

You could go a 60 axle for the width. ARB lockers for the stronger carrier. Decent gears setup with good bearing preloads. They say Nitro gears are good. Marlin pinion seals with shiny multi drilled flanges. Chromo axle shafts. ARP studs and extra dowels, or bigger studs. Disc brake conversion ...

Hi All
I'm in urgent need of a quantity of spring bushings that have the above mentioned dimensions for my Toyota. Where can I get some in a hurry?

Apparently its also not a good idea to rebuild the type of steering uni pictured. Its a staked joint and removing the bearings removes the stakes. The local drive line shop wanted nothing to do with building a uni for me after I told them its for steering parts, so I did it myself and re-staked them ...

Ok, I understand.. I thought they were plentiful..

Similar to what this guy has done..

Whats the problem with the 55 column? I used one in mine and a 75 intermediate shaft. I made a large <-> small spline uni to go between the 55 column and 75 intermediate from bits from a 80 rag joint and another joint. This eliminates the 80 rag joint and is IMHO much betterer!

I dont know what the regs are in your state, but its probably unlikely that the modification is engineer-able.

Wont be legal, use flattest stock springs you can find or a mixture pack with longer main leaves. If you already have 6 inch spring lift and go SOA, you will be about the same height but with superior flex. Drop shackles only add wank factor.

Me personally, if you go to All the effort to replace carrier bearings why not change the pinion bearings. They are put in as a set and you really should change as a set, if the carrier bearings are worn then you are taking a gamble weather the pinion bearings will fail later down the track ...

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Neither work well or look good. You need a 55.. Col had a 55 in his yard some time ago, go see him..

I dont think resplining unis would be any help really, as you still have the small spline on the 70 intermediate shaft to deal with. I will see if i can get some photos of what I did, as I have never seen anyone else do it before..

Looking around on other forums, now that 55 columns are getting hard to find most people are using 7X or 60 series columns now and the collapse-able intermediate shaft for the 7x models and or modifying the factory column with an extra bearing at the bottom and having it splined. Either way the 55 ...

When I did my 60 PS conversion on my 40, I used a 55 column, a 60 box and an intermediate shaft from a 70. To adapt the 55 column to the 70 intermediate shaft I used bits from a sacrificial 80 rag joint. I disassembled half the uni in the 80 rag joint with a fine cutting disc and a cold chisel, did ...

andyjim243 wrote:dirty 30's are just fine, i know more blokes that have shredded Longfields than any other cromo brand, for what it's worth.

Probably because they are the most common.. Thats like saying you see more Commodores broke down on the side of the road than Ferraris.

Or just use 45mm rather than 50mm bearings?

You should hear it click when the key goes into the ignition position. If it doesnt, it might not be getting the proper signal or its physically damaged. If it clicks then its moving, but that doesnt mean its sealing, so you need to remove it and inspect its operation properly.

Hahah. To make your front axle any good, it will need a Nissan centre in it.

what we did on the 45 http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk44/adamkon4wd/45%20Build/IMAGE_096.jpg its about 3" long, got longfeild to make some longer 30spl chromo axles up for it. Its cheaper than spacers or rims and way way better. Is that one of Dave Gores spacers? How did you cut the knuckle ...

I did the sums.. 4.11s and 31s is 0.5% different to 4.88s and 37s..

It will bolt straight in to all but the earliest 40s.. My 40s have 60 centres in them with air lockers, only because they were cheap and it was convenient at the time. I don't know what others do..

30...

You could probably get some at Locktup?