Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Thanks.

Another Pic - rim clears caliper.

I have ROH2 15X8 Rims.

I just put them on the 80 series and they have cleared the calipers and discs. Im sure this model comes with 16in rims standard.

The question is will they be too close? Anyone see any problem with this?

TIM

PS The wheel turns freely.

Mudtoy - Ive heard that the hand brake needs to be totally mechanical - ie separate to the hydraulic system in case it fails. This is for rego and RWC purposes I mean. Is this true?

Here's a picture of the different input shafts.

The one on the bottom is from a 5 speed on a 3b, the other is is off . . . pretty much everything else (H, 2H, 12HT, F as far as I know).

As you can see its a finer spline and a bit longer.

I'm not very familiar with 1HZs but I reckon changing ...

Ive had similar experience to christover1. 45 series cruiser also has driver and tank on the same side and you can notice the effect of this even going through "S" type bends on road - one side rolls more than the other.

Im aware that some brands of suspension have designated Left and Right ...

Stubby, what size tyre, and what type of vehicle?
Peter

I got 33in MTRs on 15x8 rims under a 47 Series Cruiser Ute but I'm asking the question in general with the "what next?" question in mind (thinking 35 - 37in MTRs).

Is there any advantage in getting 10in over 8in wide rims for 12.5in ...

What effect does the width of the rim have on the tyres ability to bag?

Does a narrower rim (say, 8in) encourage more bagging cause of the tyre bulging or does a 10in wide rim let the side wall work better?

Maybe there's no advantage to either - any theories?

This is a factory built dual cab only distributed in South America i believe.

Early BJ42s were also 4 speeds so I think the main difference is the bigger 3b engine

BJ42 - August 1980 through to October 1982 had 3B (3.4 litre diesel) and
and a 4-speed.

BJ42 - October 1982 through to October 1984 also had 3B but a 5-speed instead. They both had two piece transfer cases ...

Sometimes the reason the doors rattle at the latch is because it has movement at the hinges. The hinges have plastic sleeves that wear out. You can knock the pins out of the hinges (with a dift or centre punch) and and replace the plastic sleeves with knew ones. Put the pins back in. No more ...