Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey guys. Chasing some pictures or info on chopping the sills out of a gq. I've heard of people replacing them with RHS before. Mine are battered and beat beyond repair.
Cheers.

They will have the oil drain for the turbo tapped into the block

Silver top GQ motors are the same design as the UD trucks. Then in 95 they lightened them up a bit by using lighter pistons as they were not turbo from factory. Then when they brought out the turbo GU they went back to the heavier pistons and a slightly stronger crank. The flywheels also differ from ...

Any progress on GU stuff yet Kent ?

I run a GQ black top in my Gu race truck. Only mod is turbo pistons. Other than that its all stock. Has well over 600nm of torque. The biggest torque related issue is the crank. But you have to be pushing over 200hp to worry about that

Not coilovers but I'm running profender 2.5" bypass shocks and bump stops. It handles quite nice. I previously had fox 2.0 smoothies and it handles way better in race conditions. Rides quite stable through the whoops with the standard valving although the front is a little soft and rear is a bit ...

Yep Fairline are the go. Got a set on my Gu

all sorted now.. turns out the new throw out bearing was dodgy

all sorted.. was just a dodgy throw out bearing. fingers crossed it all runs smoothly now.

No.. clutch engages and disengages fine.. only the engine will stall unless you rev it. car doesnt move at all.

Air shocks arent really designed for that sort of thing. you would be better off with a good nitrogen shock and decent coils.
Air shocks are normally used in slow speed lighter weight stuff often without a coil at all. i think they would be far too stiff and would heat up real quick on a rough road

I thought i would post this up here, even though it is about a nissan it could happen on any engine and it has me really puzzled as to whats causing it. Has anyone had the problem with a td42 or any engine for that matter where the engine labours/stalls when the clutch is pushed in. We originally ...

Has anyone had the problem with a td42 or any engine for that matter where the engine labours/stalls when the clutch is pushed in. We originally put it down to the slave cylinder sticking as the throw out bearing was siezed and you could see where it had been wearing on the pressure plate. So we ...

you could do it but you need the blower and governor assembly too as the govenor is set up to keep the fuel/air the same. also the blower has a bypass valve in it. As long as you dont go chasing massive power and your engine is in a decent condition it will be ok. I did my apprenticeship with ...

i know a guy that did it on a cruiser, didnt fail and he uses it for winch challenge comps.. use a 24v solenoid though, the 12v one weled itself together with 24v and couldnt stop the winch.

Would it be possible to adapt an air/electronic freespool to the 10000lb that i already have? Also it looks as though the ones sold in NZ are just disengaging the clutch. correct me if im wrong but this just disconnects the motor from the gear box where as a true comp style free spool dicconnects ...

have a looks at heaths GU in the members section (its the one thats running a billion hp duramax v8 and little shiny wheels lol)
It has full tube front end. using 2 tubes to form the inner guard.

has anyone tried lifting it up about 2 inches so it sits above the chassis rail? seems like the easiest thing to me. just wnat to know what other people have done

Why not just run water/meth injection triggered by boost. plenty of people do it with diesels in the states, even a few in oz. and lots of drag cars etc. do it.

has any one fitted one of these into a Gu patrol, seems as though the motor is going to hit the chassis rail. Just wondering what people have done.

Cheers
Tomo

why not just make a bracket and stick it up high somewhere. have a look at what rob did on his cruiser for the alternator.
http://www.mackay4x4.com/viewtopic.php? ... 4&start=50" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Pretty sure there is a company that makes adapters for t700's etc.. saw them advertised in 4wd action

Went for a epic drive on sunday, i will NEVER go with hilux/coureers ever again!!! any way back to lsd talk.. it made my rig do things that put a smile from ear to ear, it wont chirp doing u turns but it does not slip off road. i didnt think it would chirp on the road with 35 muddies anyway. read ...

quite an easy mod.. simply remove both pumps, remove head from pump along with the plunger and switch the two then bolt back together and then place it on your squillion dollar test bench and set it up :armsup: or you could just pay dzl tech for a complete new pump tuned to what ever hp you want ...

i think superior engineering or someone sell radius arm spacers? move your diff further foward in the arch..

i know a guy that had a set up in the rear of 351 powered f truck. had big track rods like what leaf spring dragsters use.. have a look at some big hp leaf sprung one tonners and stuff.. he did fink desert race with this set up and had no issues

Just wondering if anyone has done a twin shock set up in the front of a GU. have seen a couple of set ups in other vehicles mainly comp trucks. I have also seen one running a shock inside the coil but this seems like there is the chance the spring could touch the shock when binding or flexing? also ...

I havent had any issues with sand although i dont do alot of sand work.. i have found it is extremely good in muddy conditions though.. even just plain inox.. it prevents the mud from sticking, water getting in electrics ect. it does tend to cause the dust to stick a bit but nothing a bit of ...

just cut ya shifter where you need it then cut the threaded part off the peice that's already off then rewled to the gear stick, thats how mine is done turps wrote: BadMav wrote:Shortened my shifter with a 2 inch body lift, still crunches second when dragging off geminis tho :D No the top of your ...

sorry mate mines a bit different