Outer Limits 4x4 Board

unless you go injected gas you'll loose power going to lpg.

vapour carbed lpg with a turbo is the best IMO, very simple and reliable too.

If you want both tanks feeding independantly(ie selectable), you need seperate fillers, by law, pretty sure they introduced this around the same time that AU wagons started being factory fitted with LPG. If both tanks feed simultaneously, you can use one filler. Both configurations require a ...

I usually only play with blown systems, and never with the 300A's as they dont work blow through, but with most of the impco stuff the idle mixture is VERY sensitive, 1/30th of a turn can put it out, literally. You shoul dbe able to get it in the ball park, whatever idles smoothest is usually fairly ...

the most reliable gasket is no gasket, as long as the faces are good.

Vapour injection will top out earlier than the vapour carbed but will give better mileage, vapour injection and boost are not the best combo. Thats not true at all. you just need the right set up. Have a look at this site. I have just started using it and so far it is VERY impressive. I am the ...

Not all 351' got the FMX probably just the realier ones, the later stuff all c10's.

glide should be under the GM banner there. and the C10 is the same as a C4, just came behind clevo's, just case variants, C4,5,9,10, all the same essentially. Just minor differences and the C5 used a whacked out valvebody, early ones use 24 spline input later ones C10 etc use 26spline, but they are ...

rotaries are light, and any hipo C4 equipped car will need more regular maintenance, they simply dont have that much clutch pack area. The T400 is better IMO than a C4, once the cars start getting heavier they will look at T400 or glide, C4 cant hack it for as long in heavy car, they are fine tho if ...

T400 is good choice, way more potential over the C4, T400 is pretty much the strongest 3 speed auto you will find IMO.

you'll get away with anything at that power level.

Anything with an alloy head already has steel inserts, doesn't matter when its made. The valve lube junk you can just leave on if you must, it will not work infront of the turbo, it requires manifold vacuum to operate, and with boost it just wont work, but off boost it will. Ive built and tuned a ...

nabstud wrote:Is it possible/recommended to use valve lube on a turbo lpg petrol motor? If so how is it installed?

Cheers

Just make sure its tuned properly and it will be fine.

Anything with water cooled centre doesn't need one IMO, not at all, and if you take it easy the last few K's home, its all good, the more electronics you can get rid of the better.

Just watch that blue hose, using my comps flat out the blue hose can soften once they get really hot, yours might not do that, their is some red hose that solved my problem, and very near the same cost.

http://www.welding.com.au/products-list ... egoryID=63

just watch the duty cycle when looking at the power ratings, they all have different ratings, some brands are conservative others generous.

how much is a semi decent 200 amp mig worth? Probably more than what you wanna spend if your after a good brand, i'd get a cheapy stick, and save up 800-1500$ odd for a mig, if you get a good brand even a 150amp will do better than a cheaper 200A, but you will pay more for the brands. If your not ...

stick will do most of the general fab work, but for panel work your better off with mig, gasless works fine but they chew the wire much quicker than gassed, and generally the weld is messier. the super cheap arc works well up to about 4/5mm plate, it just doesn't have the guts to work with the ...

heres a pic of the 8 that might get used a few years down the track, thats why I wanna make sure the right stuff is used to begin with.

Thats a full on build up, its got me thinking, mine is monocoque chassis essentially, it still has distinct main members but the whole shell of the car helps, I guess with most 4wd and truck chassis the body just sits on top, so has greater requirements for structural strength, ie bending, etc. I'm ...

Vehicle skin will be ZK fairlane, using most probably Gq running gear, and ford engine/box. steel collected so far 150x50x3, 100x50x3, 75x50x3, and 42x3'ish CHS. Just after some opinions regarding design really, plan is to have two 100x50x3 main chassis rails, running into 150x50x3 over the front ...

Woop wrote:What about using the divorced MQ patrol (T100L) transfer case? Has same size output flanges as GQ?GU and from reading some posts on Pirate, is apparently very strong. Came in some MQ/MK patrols and Nissan 720's (clocked in 720's)

Nick

yeah thats an option for sure

Loanrangie wrote:What about a dana tc ?

haven't read much about them yet, i'm not sure what they are like, im still schooling myself on these 4x4 parts, and the johnie black isn't helping atm.

Judginy by what Ive learned so far, I will be best sticking to one complete driveline, probably the Gq stuff, and just run with that, try and find some 3.9's. If I'm not happy with that can always graft in two 9" centres, which for me is a great option as I have parts, so this is one thing that ...

Thanks for those pics, helps a lot, also props to Luke@Lukeys 4x4, he also very helpful, not sure if I'm breaking forum rules by giving props to the helpful guys???? Some of the advice these blokes have given over the phone is very good, not everyone will take 5 mins to chat with someone.

its a clevor(aka boss) not a clevo, that engine will stay with me until I die, it took one full years pay just to buy the parts. i'd like to use the C4/Ba engine, and stick with a divorced transfer so if i decide to throw in another driveline, its easier. trying to find NP205 to go look at local to ...

its a clevor(aka boss) not a clevo, that engine will stay with me until I die, it took one full years pay just to buy the parts. i'd like to use the C4/Ba engine, and stick with a divorced transfer so if i decide to throw in another driveline, its easier. trying to find NP205 to go look at local to ...

big props to cheesyracing, very helpful bloke.

If I use the Ba engine and C4 then I guess the 9" isnt really needed, plus the sale of that will inject some cash into the build. The weight saving of the 6 over the v8 would be significant also, I just wanted too look into all options as the entire V8 package is already complete, no money to spend ...

Just spoke to bloke from Marks adapters, the only thing they have that works with c4 is to suit toyota FJ60 transfer, and nothing to suit a powerglide, he mentioned the atlas but 5K tag is way too much for this project. Back to the drawing board, having never seen a nissan case up close its hard for ...

I build most things on a relatively low budget, and that diff looks like a work of art, very nice piece, well out of my price range. This vehicle, ground clearance isn't of a huge concern, more just the power handling, think 4wd stadium truck, but in a ZK fairlane, trying to keep everything low ...