Outer Limits 4x4 Board

It will bolt straight in ,other than the gearstick will sit further back towards the seats as the top plates have different stick locations(need to move the hole in the floor too) you can swap the top plates over or fit the fairey OD to the back of your 47 box.

I cant give you these ones but i could take them off and make up templates out of coat hanger wire and post them to you.
might cost you a slab though.

I have a 12HT sitting on the floor in the shed. Not sure of ID but OD of small pipe is 4mm and runs from vacuum on alternator. Again not sure of ID but OD of bigger tube(water) is 8mm. I can send you some pics if you give me an email address,not a big enough computer nerd to figure out how to upload ...

Its really very basic,just unbolt all the appropriate hardware,gearsticks and remove. Just remember they're vey heavy.
Remember to support the rear of the engine before removing.

It weighs 120kgs with transfer case,be very careful if your not using a transmission jack,but its a sraight forward exercise,no real tricks to know.

3B's ran 2 different pumps one like a 2h/12ht (later) and one more like a 2F/3F or early 3B , regardless of which type of pump it has , if it mounts off the cyl head as he says what he has is in the diagram above, you need to fit the p/s pump bracket over the engine removal hook or space it from the ...

You leave the lift hook bracket in place and bolt the pump bracket over the top of it.
As for the key to the lock ,just swap the barrel or assy over you have in the column you take out so you use your original key.

The only real difference in the columns is the power steering column is approx 1" shorter than than standard one,You can use a standard column but it will bring the steering wheel closer to your chest,i find its too close as it is without being any closer.You can and i have modified a few standard ...

PM me your email address as i dont know how to upload pics on this site.

That is the same configuration as my 1982 FJ40LX,the cooler sits up in the top corner of the radiator support panel on the drivers side , you will see quickly once you sit it the how it all connects up,very easy , i can send you a pic if you want.

RAY185 is right 95% of the time its really not needed.
If you were going to fit it ,it depends on which model and engine your kit came off to where it goes.
i have 3 different 40 series cruisers all with factory p/s and all 3 are set up totally different.

i have 2 fj40 LX's as spare parts trucks if anyone is looking for some LX bits and pieces

As bad relgion says it will fit ,very straight forward but you MAY have to swap the tailshaft flanges on the transfer case depending on which bolt pattern tailshafts you have,but if so its just as easy as the rest of the job.

i still have a spare 12HT sitting idle, still runs but has a blown head gasket

Put in another vote for the front ,for all the above reasons,even if you didnt have an LSD in the rear you would go the front.

I'm doing the same conversion and i'm just changing the existing wiring with the correct plug ends....easy.

PLEASE do the the world a favour, if you have that much money to waste on a pointless exercise...find out how much it will cost you to do the job and instead of doing it ,write a cheque to some worthy charity where your money will be much better spent

Yes thats correct

You really need to fit a manual L shift 60/75 series transfer case,vac type transfer won't fit in a 40 without chopping up chassis and the 55's not much better. Not only that you dont have the hassle of faulty solenoids not working to select H4,they are expensive to replace. As the other reply ...