Outer Limits 4x4 Board

GQ Bear wrote:
Whichever one you choose i'm sure you won't be disappointed.

Until you follow your mate on 35x10.5 simex through a bog hole and diff out on your 35x11.5 silverstones .

(identical vehicles of course)

Love to see what ppl say about hydraulic.... I've got 12v Warn Arb Set up and have been dissapointed with it.... For serious winching comps and hardcore recreational I think 24v is the go.. My set-up cuts off after about 10m and will only un spool. I have to wait for five minutes for it to go ...

This may be a silly question, but if it is the only track in or out.
What gear did you use to get in

I ran the same set of old style STT in 35x12.5 for 5 years on a GQ that was only used off-road. At the time it was only them or BFG available readily in that size. Never got a single puncture and performed better in the vic mud and clay than all my mates running BFG muddies. Only problem was they ...

Yeah sorry your right, I've never seen any :roll: Not talking about the common issue with the early ones either mate. Either way a stronger panhard rod wont make a difference if driven properly. mate now your just spitting out random words in the hope they will unjumble themselves and make sense ...

Yeah sorry your right, I've never seen any
Not talking about the common issue with the early ones either mate. Either way a stronger panhard rod wont make a difference if driven properly.

Dont know anyone that has ever bent the mount's, would have to be driving like a complete idiot.

Wasnt bent mate, just one good hit with a rock half way up the track.

I've run HD front and rear ever since lifting mine 4". Think your mad if you dont. Even if you only do it for the strength. This was a mates standard rear after a fairly strait forward track. Rock must have rolled the wrong way. They are very thin. http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee178/CHRISMAV ...

j-top paj wrote:

whitemav wrote: Some of the users on this forum need to pull their head in.

i guess this doesnt include yourself?

if you dont like it, then why are you here?

Happy 4wding and mod's to all you guy's.
I enjoy mine without this shit.
Hope to see some of you on the tracks, the rest I dont.

have to filter though to much crap to get a decent opinon on here. you mean you have to filter through it all to get the opinion you were hoping to get? so you can tell yourself your right because some other bogan in their hillbilly GQ has already done what you want to do and tells you to do it ...

Well chubbz.... besides all the bs opinions of others as to why you want it that big and the replys of all the self taught lawyers and engineers did you end up getting a worthy answer to your question?????? I get so sick of this site and the people who belittle anyone who wants to do something to ...

coxy321 wrote:

adriand82 wrote: They are 35x11.5x15's. I'd have liked to get 10.5's but they don't make these tyres in a 35x10.5x15.

Are you sure???

Does that my set a collectors items??

Yours are simex are they not?
The other guy's are talking about silverstone

Only got one with the slightly larger simex on.


Found an old one with the coopers

thanks muddytroll, mine has the same 4 inch lift so your info is greatly appreciated. I dot mind having to cut the guards a bit to get them the flex without rubbing. you mention longer bump stops, where did you get them from? what ratio are the diffs in the 2.8's and, lastly, would you have a pic ...

Tread lightly

ofr57 wrote:

whitemav wrote:Have only driven on the road, in someone elses car
they are surprising quite dont look that tuff in person.

did that do outback challenge?

Yep

...........

Have only driven on the road, in someone elses car
they are surprising quite dont look that tuff in person.

There are to many factors that could change the angle that it would actually go over. eg. momentum, uphill, downhill, smooth terrain, rough terrain. My suggestion would be that if you are feeling weary about the angle, there is good reason ;) The pucker factor will usually give you an indication ...

I had a good run out of Cooper STT 35X12.5 r15 in all but very muddy conditions.
But I absolutly love my simex ET's 35X10.5/15 for everything but the road. Only good as a play tyre and wear quick.
O yeah, this is on a Maverick wagon.

Should cost around the $1000-$1200 mark if it is just the bearings using non-gen parts supplied and fitted.
99% of the time it is just the bearings but if you do need gears (you will never know until you open up and look) or an axle it can start to get very expensive.

Everyone runs them on 8" rims, dont think anyone makes 8.5" rims unless you go custom. Some people run them on 10" rim , but most people find 8" is better for off road.
I've never had a problem with a tyre dealer fitting to a 8" rim.

I dont have a problem with the flex, the reason I bought them was they were one the the longer shocks on the market at the time. But the ride and general quality of them are no way near the flex they produce :D . If I had my time again I would get something locally developed. Much better choice ...

Nup it a simex thing

I know its childish, but post his email address up here and we'll all call him a w**ker and a d**k head.

I to have ranchos, have to say they are just another piece of cheap mass produced crap from the US of A.

Is it a rear axle or the pinion shaft (or both)?

Dont know about ol sydney town, but down in vic you wouldnt fit in the ruts with the 15's, causing all kinds of issues. Differant state so differant driving but what issues would they cause ? Nick Some tracks have very tight deep ruts, even with 35x12.5 it gets tight. With the 15's you could end up ...

Just did mine, should only take a tech about 2 hours paid labour.
So any doubts just get your local to do it. not that expensive.
Unless you like stuffing around and drinking beer with your mates

Dont know about ol sydney town, but down in vic you wouldnt fit in the ruts with the 15's, causing all kinds of issues.
Would look cool though and be good for rocks