Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I know there Is A jeep section but it's fairly quiet in there, just a basic question regarding raising the pressure relief in a ps pump. Any info would be appreciated. Only needs to last one comp so longevity isn't an issue.

That's my point exactly, seems everyone is looking to blame something and it seems aftermarket turbos are an easy target, like I said my egts are around 450deg but I'd bet my left nut that a N/A diesel would reach those temps aswell. As for people getting greedy and winding up the fuel screw in ...

I can only speak for mine but I've got everything in my favor ( 3" dump and exhaust, boost and pyro, boost compensated pump just no intercooler) the hottest I've got the egt is around 450deg. Although I haven't towed anything with any decent weight. I think it's unfair to label an engine as a bad ...

Where all the questions are coming fromis that I've just bought a 100 series with a turboed 1hz, seems to be the first thing everybody states is that 1hz's don't like turbos where it comes down to tuning more than anything. I'm starting to think that a correctly set up turbo and tuning will have ...

Ok if that's the case, why don't we hear of all the horror story's of N/A diesels failing? Or do they, and its just put down to old age or some other problem and not made a big deal? Why do turbo diesels fail? If there's so many fueled up N/A diesels getting around without pyros you'd think you ...

That's sort of what I was expecting, any body else have any experiences with them?

Has anyone put a pyro on a naturally aspirated diesel? Just wondering what they'd run when pushed hard and how much heat a turbo actually adds. Obviously it all depends on the tune but I'm just curious. So if anyone's done it for shits and giggles let us know the results.

What about tyre width, are fair enough 33s are legal on a cruiser/patrol, but is the 12.5 width legal? I can't find any relevant information.

Reverse bleeding is the go.

A couple small dents on the outer shell, but nothing major, also rod seems straight too. Once I get a new one fitted I'll take to it with a grinder and see what went wrong inside. :shock: Probably not the best idea, I'm all for the Darwin awards and the theory of evolution but since youve made it ...

How long is the slip on the extra long one?

Looks like it was the air cleaner, must be some crossed wires in the dash somewhere.

Yeah that was my thoughts. If I get a chance I'll have a look today. Alternator is a possibility as it barely charges at idle, but comes good at about 1000rpm. I'll check the air cleaner as that might solve a few other problems aswell. Haha mechanics cars.......

I'll have a look in the morning, I Always thought it was electrical but it's starting to annoy me.

Yeah, defenetly timing belt.

I thought the light only came on at 100k km intervals. Why would it come on at 2900rpm? It does it every time it hits 2900 rpm and only seems like its under acceleration. ie, if your doing 3200rpm overtaking and back off the light goes out. Any help is appreciated.

To be honest I seem to change my mind about 3 times a day about which one I prefer, like I said the hilux ticks all the boxes for me ( and I've had one as a work ute) but there seriously getting left behind by the competitors.

Yeah defenetly waiting for the new shape, 470 nm tourque 132kw 3.5t towing, silverado rear diff ( locker should be an option). Apparently (according to ford anyway) have a crap safety rating.

I was at ford yesterday and they were under the Impression it isn't an option. Its an accessory I defenetly want. The bt50 has it tho so maybe it's doable. Edit, it's only available on the wild track and there's a 6month wait on them from the local ford dealer.

Just done some measurements, the Colorado has almost the same dimensions as my 80 series, the colorado is about 300mm longer than mine ( kaymar rear bar, high mount bullbar) and maybe 100mm narrower wheelbase, but the rest are fairly close. They are sold in the states maybe that's why.

Seems like most utes have grown. I was talking to a salesman at holden this morning about the Colorado and the way he was talking that there nearly the size of an f250

Is yours auto or manual?

Who's got one? I've been looking around recently and the new models have come a long way from where dual cabs were 5 years ago. So far the standouts are the new ranger and the Amarok (maybe because they both come with diff locks) the SR5 hilux ticks all the boxes for me but is getting left behind in ...

I used a hitachi 18v cordless and it worked awesome.

Bugger, I was hoping it wasn't there. Might be alright on a 1hz but there's a turbo in the way in a 1hdt.

So here goes, :oops: where is the thermostate in a 1hdt. I'm guessing it'll be the same place as a 1hz. I've had a look where every other engine ever built in the history of the universe ( might be a bit of an overexageration) where the top radiator hose joins the engine but it's not there. I'm ...

Yeah I really wanted it to wrap around the water pump pulley more ( so instead of having less than quarter of the pully having belt on it it'll be over a third) the water pump will have another pulley welded to it and then run 2 alternators. Hard to explain but I'll put up a pic when it's all done.

I guess we'll find out. It's really the only option we have, I've seen them bent backwards on heaps of different things. I've given up on the idea of a tensioner and am going to use an flat idler and the right size belt and just pry it on so it doesn't need a tensioner.

Has anyone used a spring type tensioner ( like on a serpentine belt v6 commodore ect) on a v belt. Do they supply enough tension.

What I'm trying to get at is if you adjust the brakes until there tight and you have a hard pedal then it's an adjustment problem, otherwise if it's still soft it's an air in the fluid problem.