Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Don't put words in my mouth or try to tell me what I'm saying. I know exactly what I'm saying. The reason you've never seen soot blocking oil galleries is because people change their oil. Ok, listen into what I am saying, don't misquote me or tell me what I am trying to say. As engines run they form ...

No one said soot doesn't cause wear, the term I used was "abrasive agent". Meaning that the primary damage soot will do is block galleries, just about any particles in your oil will cause wear. Be careful changing oil based on soot percentage, some tests give a soot reading as a total percentage in ...

No, 5k is what Toyota want you to believe, last time I checked they weren't an oil company. On the older Toyota precombustion diesels the oil change interval is 5k. I absolutly agree that the more samples you take the better the picture you recieve will be, But if you do a $40 oil test a 5k and find ...

I'm not committing to it being a switch, I was advising that you should correctly diagnose the problem and not guess at it and go changing parts unnessarily, which seems to be a fairly popular thing to do on this site.

Don't guess diagnose.

The size of soot isn't the important bit, It isn't an abrasive agent. It's like colesterol in your blood, It starts to clump together in your oil galleries and restricts flow to vital components. New oil contains detergents that clean these deposits out, as your oil ages it loses these detergents ...

It is always a smart idea to take oil samples, but when you consider that an oil sample kit would cost roughly as much as an oil change I know which one I would be preforming. Comparing oil hours to Kms travelled doesn't work. Things that measure oil life in terms of hours like plant equipment and ...

I'm not familar with this conversion but I can forsee alot (and I mean alot) of problems, Like the fact that the wheel bases are different, much of the wiring will need to be done again, matching the gear stick to the hole in the tunnel, matching the 60 steering colum to the 80 box, finding radiator ...

Don't have a knee jerk reaction to an engine failure. Indirect injection toyotas are murder on their oil. There is no need for synthetics your just wasting more money. Buy a resonable quality oil and make sure you change it every 5K. The most important thing is changing the oil every 5K.

If they work when held back but not when pushed forward it is probably your combination switch. pull the colum cover off and check the plug, you can try shorting the plug terminals together to work out if it is the switch. Or you could check the switch at the plug.

I could see a body transfer becoming a long and costly process. your probably better off just fitting coil suspension to the 60. If your chasing more power i'd go with a 12HT in place of the 2H. I mean realisticly the only major differences were the suspension and better engines.

Have you considered going for just airbags. They give a superb ride that is not effected by a change in weight.

Install a helper spring like a polyair airbag. It can be adjust to match the load you are carrying. Installing heavier springs will give you a harsher ride when you are not loaded up.

Just wondering if any of the diff centers with factory difflocks will fit into the axle housings in a BJ42 (with the obvious exception of the front diff in the 80 & 100 series)? And if not why not?

Could be a bent panhard rod.