Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I haven't measured them, but fairly sure the SD33 starter motor uses different space mountings (I have been known to be wrong!), so the petrol stuff won't fit. If you have no A/C, you can put a second alternator (take the guts out of the original) above the original alternator (to save engine power ...

Switching the negative, as mentioned in the original post, and referred by my above post (should have said this in my last post) is not a good plan as the earth from the alternator is still connected to the engine and as long as charge (self sustaining with engine motion) is still in the alternator ...

Yes, Reflectometer. That is what you get for trying to post and answer the phone at the same time... Impedance mismatch does cause reflection, but joins (even expertly joined ones) will cause reflection (poorer quality, more reflection, impedance mismatch looks like a poor connection) and the length ...

Joining cable, for antennas, is bad. Period. You get 'moisture leaks', even if you heat shrink over it (I'm sure you don't use the moisture excluding gels!) and tape is almost as good as not using anything. Moisture from the air (or immersion!) will get into the cable and change its dielectric ...

It has been many years since I worked with car alarms, but go with something that has the features you want. eg, remote door control for central locking, siren sound you like (everyone's keep going off, so you may as well), is a known brand (so no market Yum Cha specials) so that if you do have ...

I wasn't going to reply to this post, but I feel it may be prudent in light of the most recent posts... _D_O__N_O_T_ disconnect the earth from your ECU!!!!! This will result in a 'pop' noise (loudness varying with brand) and your ECU will emit smoke (varying with model). NEVER remove the earth wire ...

You would be best, as suggested, to run your own earth wire if you have trouble finding if the clock earth actually is an earth (a multimeter set to resistance (ohms) mode can check this - should be zero (or near enough).) Anything more than about 0.3 of an ohm is not earth. Anything that has volts ...

Don't strip the insulation back so far - you should have just enough to connect the sheath to the 'ground' and solder in the centre wire. If the wire is old, it could be perforated and have internal water corrosion - totally kills antenna cables. If you have knotted the cable up (if you can see ...

Hefy Merv is correct. This will give best power transfer and least risk to equipment. Please use heat shrink over joined wires - electrical tape has a nasty habit of giving up under hot 4WD dashboards. "Series" the speakers (as Merv described) and see how you go. It may pay to try and put just one ...

The base for a UHF and a CB have different threads - I was caught out with this recently. The thread on a UHF is finer. Cable is the same. If you are changing the base, you may as well rewire, then you can loom it neatly (away from things that cause interference like ignitions!) with gentle radius ...

My friend had a MQ SWB 24V that had two trailer plugs. One was 24V and the other used relays and a regulator for 12V. You will need relays for each 'wire' in the plug (with the exception of ground!). Bit of messing around (and you get weird clicking sounds from all those relays stashed in the rear ...

A friend with an early MQ SWB had a few things tapped on the 1st battery and used to swap the batteries around every few months to 'keep wear even'. He said it was a pain, as the batteries are a little bit too heavy to be regularly swapping (risk of spilling corrosive substances on yourself ...

[quote="Tas_Dean"]You can do it two ways... use 24v globes and a 24v relay (if using a relay) OR wire two 12v globes in series (i wouldn't recommend this as if 1 globe fails they both go out), you still need a 24v relay if you are utilising a relay! I am wondering if I should convert my MQ LWB to ...