Outer Limits 4x4 Board

thanks for all the advice. decided to get a new kingpin from the wreckers and for $20, is cheap peace of mind.

so is this too much? first pic shows extent and second pic shows depth (on upper right hand side). i've filed them down nice and smooth...

and let's just say you accidently grind a small bit of the kingpin, is that bad?

i've tried almost everything to remove the bearings from the kingpin: a bearing puller, levering with screw drivers and even trying to lever them off with a pick!
how the hell can i remove them? angle grinding is an absolute last resort because i don't want to stuff the kingpins themselves. any ...

there seem to be a few posts on this topic but all replies are "i've PM'd them to you"....anyone got some they could share with me? more so how to install top brackets near/into grab handle.
thanks

ok, so had another look tonight after replacing the copper washers for the banjo fitting and looks like it's actually coming from the join as indicated in the pic below. presume this is the top plate and therefore probably o-ring? whilst i don't have a lot of mechanical experience, once someone ...

i've got a stock pump just turned up, AXT turbo, no intercooler and get 90rwkw and that's down a bit from what it was getting on dyno when it was first tuned after fitting the turbo.

it's only leaking when the engine's running from both the banjo fitting and also the other point on the left. i'll be replacing the copper washers from the banjo fitting because they are deteriorating. but what's the other point on the left and what type of tool do you use to undo it? it's as though ...

thanks guys. what about the other point on the left?

yep, another one. leaking from the top at two points as per the pics. is this an easy fix or major probs?

i've got the opportunity to buy a 2006 NP GLS on gas that has only done about 25,000km. they're asking $28,000 which i think is a pretty good deal (deceased estate).
i've never had a car on gas before and wondering if anyone has got any advice on the 3.8 and it being on gas, problems to look out ...

i'm looking to buy a second hand 120 series prado in the V6. probably auto (cos manuals are almost non-existent) and just wondering if there's any major common issues with them that i should look out for. looking to buy a 2005 model onwards with around 100,000km on it.
cheers

a turbo shop

SIM79
Posted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 1:13 pm

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Body lift?

checked the body mount bolts. 8 of them were loose enough to get a couple of turns out of them. test drive and problem solved! (i hope).....

thanks SIM79

my GQ has started to get the shakes in the body around 90-100km/h. it is NOT coming through the steering (yes i have searched but all the threads seem to be about steering shimmy issue and it's not in the steering).

either with 36" simex's or 35" muddies same thing happens. new wheel bearings, had ...

and i thought the same for vic. i didn't think anything bigger than 33s could be engineered at all in vic? they are just plain illegal?[/quote]

no more than 400 but less if possible
5 mins tops per corner.
so therefore has to be able to run for 20mins continuous

looking for a portable compressor capable of inflating 36" simex's from low pressures with a decent warranty.

opinions please on brands and prices please!

i don't think i'll be pioneering anything...it's a TB45.

apparently the laws regarding gas conversions changed at the start of 2003. if i was to buy a 2001 TB45 on straight petrol and convert to gas, will it have to be gas vapour? was the law change to cars put on gas after 2003 or was to to cars built after 2003?

with the related intercooler topic going around recently, i am thinking about adding an intercooler but have been told two completely different stories about whether it will increase or decrease water temperature.

one theory is that with cooler air, combustion process will be more efficient = more ...

compression is down a bit. i've got an '88 gq td42 with 320,000km and compression is up around 500 on most cylinders.

i have just started to notice that around 100kmph i have a vibration through the body of my GQ (not through the steering) and sometimes there's a clunk if i drop the clutch too quickly. am thinking uni joint...? how difficult is a uni joint swap on a GQ TD42?

anyone got another pic of a diagram? this one seems to have disappeared.

yeah, only up a big hill. there's a massive hill coming out of noojee heading south and that's where it's worst but i also did it yesterday up a moderate hill near my house for about 2 mins.
might have to pyro it again...

i agree, just get a GU box and be done with it.[/quote]

yep, tuned on a dyno

so, now i've got the turbo on, i'm starting to get a bit warmer than i want.
here's the deal:
AXT turbo (standard kit with 3" exhaust)
standard radiator just cleaned out (inside and out)
new thermostat
new clutch fan
not using any water
getting to 3/4 and beyond when on boost for about 2 minutes ...

i know the N13 and N14 fit a GQ without a boss kit but will the N15 also fit with no mods required? cheers

jessie928 is spot on: i had the same trouble and kept the switch engaged and swapped the lines and it disengages instantly. just a pain in the a$$ cos you have to get out, pop the bonnet and swap them each time you wanna use it.

i bought a replacement solenoid from pneutech in ringwood (vic) for ...