Outer Limits 4x4 Board

x2 for pics of a single cab styleside, like sandy bowmans old one but not trashed.

Diff ratios will be fine with the new diesel engine.

When I did mine I used the Petrol clutch but had to change the flywheel to the diesel flywheel as the hole pattern was different. (and of course you will need the bellhousing for a diesel as well).
Dont forget the fuel filler neck which will be ...

maybe try getting power to your cut off solenoids from your battery.
You may be getting a voltage drop direct from your alternator that is enough to close the fuel cut offs momentarily. Just a thought.

diesel into a petrol will be no problem, lots of us have done that. just have to get an engineers report and change the paperwork for it.

I definately think you would sell the parts seperately for more than the total motor together. reason being is that alot of people paying a fair price for individual items will be better than one person trying to get a bargain, it has worked for wreckers for decades.
So yes other than de-tuning the ...

Been thinking, an LS1 that puts out about 255kw like the one advertised at the moment in the for sale section would be (minus the 30% driveline loss) about 179kw at the wheels with less torque than the td42, and then add the modifications you will want to do to the LS1 and you be overcapatilizing on ...

I would think about 6 - 7 grand as well, most people will see it as a highly strung engine and not want to take the risk of it blowing after paying $10,000 or so.
So like any done up motor you will never get back what you put into it.
I am thinking what you have now would be better than an LS1 ...

output shaft = myth.
3inch exhaust is a must "imo".
extractors are more commonly for non turbo engines, in a turbo
application the manifold equivelent would be a tuned length turbo
manifold, kinda the same.

I used some gtr skyline injectors in my tb42, not sure about the rb20, the ones I used were definately skyline gtr 550cc I think from memory, yes they fitted straight in no modifications.

I remember seeing it roll onto its roof on a navnight comp after the drivers ambition outwayed his talent. hehehehehe did stuff all damaged and drove away though.
We broke 3 rangies on our stage that night

my return is tapped into the alternator vacuum return line.
some people really dislike this but I and many others have had zero problems with this.
Ohh must be a high mount turbo to get the gravity drop making this work.

Running standard GU ht-18 turbo on my GQ and want to know what egt temp most people will let it cool down to before turning it off,
Oil cooled only.
I usually let it idle down to about 150 degrees or so, that takes about 30 seconds or so depending on how hot it was.
Pyro is in the dump pipe about an ...

IT would probably take the same amount of effort to just convert it to turbo/gas with a much better result and same outlay.
Just my 2c worth.

I had 5" red dobinsons on my dual cab 80 and found them really stiff, changed to 4" efs with 1" spacers and they were great.

The turbo will provide the backpressure and the reasoning behind a 3" exhaust is to get the hot exhaust gasses away as fast as possible so there is the least amount of heat hanging around the dump pipe and turbo,
Saying that if the dump pipe is only 2.5 inch theres not much point in going 3" past ...

Ive just got a push to glow momentary switch as well after my conversion, about 8 seconds when cold and doesnt need anything when warm.
just remember they draw alot of current so you need a BIG solenoid, fuse and heavy gauge wires.

Ahh now that makes sense, I was wondering how to check it, I will go try that now. Cheers.
Also I think the wastegate is a factory GU one, just looked huge.

For those turbo guru's in the the know, I have an actuator with the code
AC-13 52A fitted up to a turbo I just bought second hand (thanks Daniel)

It from a standard 4.2 GU turbo setup, but I am unsure if it is standard or not.
Its not fitted up yet, didnt want to run too much boost so need to know ...

I used to get 26/100km as well before turfing it and putting in a diesel.

have you got a one-way valve fitted inline from the alternater vaccum pump to the original petrol black vaccum resevoir ???

I've run lots of different muddies and the maxxis bighorn are the best "value" for money I have found.
Great onroad
Great offroad

Turbo has to be mod plated in Qld, 33's cant be mod plated and are illegal.
gotta love qld.
If the scumbags want ya they will find something to ping you on.

When I turbo'd mine I think standard were 330cc and we upgraded to 550cc for the turbo.
Hope that helps.

Hi there, I'm new here too. Is that the 1uz lexus motor? looks very nice.
On suspension I think there were some leaf sprung 40's years back in outback challenges that did ok. Not sure on their setup though.
Good luck

Thats a great find Turbogu, I just might get one of those for mine.

I have a feeling the timer is under the kick panel besides the drivers side right.
its a green plastic box the size of a large cigarette packet.
If you get a tacho cluster from a td42 then yes it will work but will it fit the gu dash?

Hi lozz, I did a td42 to replace tb42 and the wiring was the easy part.

There wont be a glow timer from your tb45, I didnt bother as it requires the timer module and then wiring to your radiator, glow plugs, ingnition etc.
I and many others on here have simply wired a momentary switch straight to ...

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I had a full radiator size front mount on my TB42 turbo and it never overheated, just used the standard viscous hub fan. soooooo much simpler and cheaper than water to air.
If you have to have aircon then the water to air will fit easier.

I had a mate who had a cracked panhard mount to the chassis, drove fine till about 50kmh then holy crap it scared the absolute sh!t out of us both as it literally jumped from side to side.