Outer Limits 4x4 Board

marks adapters do a kit pretty sure, i know of a couple of gq's running 1uz's

Large banjo is your vacuum hose, threaded hole is oil in, flanged pipe is oil drain
Small pipe is another vac line

I would also like to have the free spool looked at, it won't free spool easy enough to pull by hand. I'm not sure if this is due to miss alignment of the drum or whether it is something inside needing attention. quite often if it wont freespool or is hard to freespool its just the brake grabbing or ...

stool wrote:Who is your Damien and what can he do .

who he is http://www.johdampet.com.au/yukon/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
i think what he can do is pretty self explanatory, he sells chev parts

i had a similar thing happen on my ARB highmount GQ bar, cracked out from the bolt holes and pulled forward an inch on the housing side

all i did was belted it straight, cut some 6mm plate the same shape and welded it in behind. the 3mm plate just isnt thick enough IMHO

I had a knock under my front passenger seat that only happened under load going up hill. I found the chassis cross member under the gearbox was bent up 20mm and reduced the clearance between the floor and the drive shaft near the handbrake. It was thumping against the floor when the torque moved it ...

Have you gone back and had a talk with Joel and said that your still not happy

He knows his stuff so it seems odd that he would have done a cam that wasn't what you wanted

http://www.dynamictyres.com.au/OurTyres ... Tyres.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

dynamic are the importers and have all the sizes listed there

in answer to your question, yes the JT's are oversized at 34.6" or 34.3" depending on the width

Id be checking the cam gear like mentioned above Before you pull it apart a quick check you can do is to try and rotate the outer brake disk by hand while holding the inner still. If the cam gear is free and working properly the outer disk should rotate and pull the two disks together applying ...

just push the rope inside the drum and tie a knot in it. the end plate comes off with 2 8mm's for access

i tied the knot around bolt so when i want to take the rope off, undo the bolt and the knot is easily undone then instead of fighting with it or cutting it off

lic40 is what i'm doing all my wheels and barwork in
http://www.licindustrial.com.au/products.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

used a lot for industrial applications, tractors etc

wheel balance is the other thing to check. makes a massive difference

markil wrote:I just replaced the 2 lowest diff studs with bolts and use them for draining the oil.

cheers mark, was one of the many ideas i'd come up with.
now to start cutting

got a question for those that have shaved there diff housings before, the front in particular picked up a new housing to replace my bent one so before i put it in i'm going to brace and shave it what did you do with the drain plug? where is the best place to put the new one after the shave has been ...

If the car has a body lift the gearbox will come out easy and shouldn't require any belting No body lift and you may have to massage the floor a bit to clear the starter motor hump and allow you to rotate the gearbox and get it out Its also a lot easier with a hoist. If doing it on the ground its a ...

leaving the cliffhanger property last week my alternator started playing up. when i was moving round the campsite, at idle all the warning lights where on but as soon as i got it over 1500rpm they went out and all was fine then got half way back to the main road and the alternator started ...

car floor mats
you can get ones that are fairly thick, and were the perfect size for gq with chopped quarters. and only $5 each

sweet thanks guys

this may stupid, but i'd rather ask and look stupid then not ask and have to pay someone do you have to replace anything when you adjust them i've got a workshop manual here, but it doesn't say if you need to replace any gaskets or anything when you pull the cover off got all the tools here ...

low range only

the way i do it (the way recommended by the workshop manual i have) there is a screw on the top of the injector pump, loosen that off a little. pump the primer on the fuel filter till clean (no air) comes out tighten the screw up loosen the bleed screw on the fuel filter, repeat as per injector ...

the way i do it (the way recommended by the workshop manual i have) there is a screw on the top of the injector pump, loosen that off a little. pump the primer on the fuel filter till clean (no air) comes out tighten the screw up loosen the bleed screw on the fuel filter, repeat as per injector pump ...

So it wasn't you on mudrhino? That post was nearly identical and he blew compressed air through his fuel lines to his tanks and it worked fine after that. http://forum.mudrhino.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=10752 that was me, was just a blocked fuel line GU-ish mine did the same thing, blew the fuel lines ...

i'd also be interested in knowing this too

speed

we've got a 2.8 non turbo on 34's with 4.33's, on a slight hill on the freeway or with a headwind and we can be down to 60k's

some car manufacturers actually put ones similar in from the factory

how stupid are they