Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I see they offer hard doors! I can't see any pictures on the site though, do you know what they look like? Are they from JD too or is it something the new owners have organised? Good to see they're still being made!

Hi guys and girls! I bought some gear off a guy in the classifieds section a few years ago, his name was Shane Murray and owned Wombat Offroad in Melbourne. I've since lost his phone number and can't contact him, I've searched the internet but had no luck so if anyone knows of his whereabouts or has ...

how did this come along?? I'd love to see how it worked out!!

Did the water leak on the passenger or drivers side? Sounds like you're missing an ignition supply to the instrument cluster, do you have access to a wiring diagram? I'd pull the cluster out and check your supplies and earths to that, then work back from there. If all your supplies are supplying ...

4.6 I reckon. No real technical knowledge or basis behind it apart from personal preference. And I feel like having an opinion on something because I'm bored :) Not a fan of the 304, reckon the Rover motors sound better plus the 4.6 should bolt straight up so less mucking about. As for reliability ...

Never used one personally, but a few customers have sworn by them and request marine batteries because others have failed on harsh terrain (numerous trips across the Simpson and Nullarbor). Apparently they're the goods

Im running a T04 which is large enough and has no lag at all.It reaches full boost by 1800 RPM :D I dont have to rev the car over 4500 RPM either. What is it like at low revs on dirt? Does it pull and jerk when it starts to spool up when you're crawling in low range? Throw up a youtube link or ...

Wouldn't bother with a 350, but an LS1 or 6L ;) If I had the option then I'd definately consider it! I have the 4.6 from my donor Rangie and dad has a 350 crate motor and the gearbox to suit it for his project Rangie and offered the swap. The Dakar had the 3.5 quad carby, then put in a 3.9 injected ...

Ok, about to start re-assembling the Dakar (full rebuild) and I have an important decision to make.. I'm trying to decide which driveline to use and these are my options.. I have a 4.6 bolted to an R380/LT230 OR 350 chev with a T400 box mated to the 3 speed transfer case. I've got maxi drive axles ...

yeah I spose it's a matter of taste... Having said it was prettier, I still wouldnt put one in my car I usually sell them to caravaners and they're thoroughly impressed with them and their fancy lights

Cost between $100 and $150 from memory.

You could put ignition switched relay in parallel with a simple momentary push-button. With ignition on, display is on; with ignition off, push the button to check your voltage. I've fitted a couple of these charge master charge monitors, they have the momentary read as well as accessory or ...

cheers mate, iv been all over that site about a hundred times in the last couple of years (cant get enough of the twin turbo set up) but he doesnt have any info on adapting manual boxes to it. which sucks, i think its a good indication that putting the auto in is the way to go.

Is there any particular reason you dont want an auto? its just more fun to drive and i perfer it far more offroad. dont mind an auto when driving to and fro but for the purpose im building this car for, a manual would be much more preferable. has anyone tried anything exotic to make a stronger ...

does anyone have suggestions on what manual gearbox would be more suitable for the chevy or is there a way to beef this one up? im a little weary on wasting time fitting this one and spending all that money on the adaptor kit then have it fail on me... i have a built turbo 400 mated to a LT230 which ...

thanks heaps for the info, its a 2002 box so i'll have a look at the numbers and find out what one i have. thanks again

now i can see how the dual battery thread escalated.. i hope noone thought i was taking this view on things!

Did you like all his claims

yes, i enjoyed every post
still got about 30 pages to get through..

hahaha yeah piss off drivespace.. wow those guys are sensitive! i usually dont have a dig at anyone but.. wow. some pretty silly accusations and responses. interesting to read tho i guess theyre a pretty close-nit bunch.

i saw the overlander site, any chance of a link to these other forums? im just curious to see what their reasoning was.. id never heard of this myth before

have you checked all your fuses? notice anything funny when it first started happening? anything fitted or played with? a list of which lights come on would be helpful and which ones go out straight away when you start it

tried to do a search but its not working for me at the moment.. im putting a 350 chev infront of an R380/LT230 using a marks adaptor kit, just wondering how well the box will handle the torque. from what iv read the 380 refers to how much torque it can handle but the gearbox is an unknown quantity ...

have you checked the charge rate? whats the voltage when the lights are on? if you give it some revs do the lights go out?

before you spend any money, check all the basics first. check voltage at the alternator so you know its not a dodgy connection to the battery and check you have battery sense to the reg. make sure the warning light goes out if the reg is unplugged. if these check out, give the alternator a tap to ...

I really don't understand what's happening; what the current is doing. As I posted earlier, when charging SLA batteries, I am used to seeing the current drop to literally zero - nothing measurable. But, that's applying a voltage sufficient to charge, so this may be the difference - if we're not ...

i think i mentioned it in relation to the importance of an isolator early in the thread. buggered if im going thru all of this to find out where tho :P At some stage (either the end of the next test, or with the existing test pair) I'd like to know what happens if an external DC source is applied to ...

ah, charge light stays on, volt guage sits at 12 or just below, oil pressure wont read on my guage, unless i hold my revs at 2500 or above, then i get an oil pressure reading, and my batt light turns off, but alt still wont charge is it petrol or diesel? internal or external reg? how confident are ...

would i do it the same way again... yes would i reccomend you do it ? No Standard disclaimer applies... the info i posted is for your education only but do with it what you will.. at your own risk :) totally agree. for the price of having someone who is trained to do it, i think its definately ...

for anyone who is a bit iffy (me included) about what we are seeing and comparing here, this is my interpretation. please add or pick me up on anything iv got wrong or missed. there was obviously a current draw as the flat battery attempted to charge from the full battery, this is apparent ...

check all your fuses too. there would have had to be a pretty bad connection to generate enough heat to melt the cable. where abouts on the cable was it damaged? the whole thing evenly or just on the alternator end?

i cut a post off an old battery and use a special mould to melt the terminal over the damaged one using a gas torch. obviouly in a well ventilated area and usually have a second person with a bucket and a rag dripping water over the plastic to stop it from being damaged. you could probably fab one ...

well then youd know more about its effects than me, i hate refrigeration :P i tried to measure the current draw but my cheap little multimeter had to much voltage drop across it and the fridge would not start up. sorry i mis interpreted this, i thought you were trying to measure amps with it set to ...