Outer Limits 4x4 Board

the truck is on standard coils and long travel shocks to get more flex from the front end all i would need is a set of radius arms that have the high arch in them [ between the two radius arm bushes located on the diff end ]
chad / the proffesor had them in his hilux that he used in tuff truck have ...

without the x link

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Tidy42/IMG_2642.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Tidy42/IMG_2641.jpg

and with the x link

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Tidy42/IMG_0428.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Tidy42/IMG_0411.jpg

and off road

http ...

why not just fit a x link ?

no need to change your radius arms or there position

it frees up the radius arms

dobbins enginerring did a set for me and yes i have flipped radius arms

still drives good on road

and you can still put sway bars under it to for more stability if you need

i have a ...

start with a engineer tell him your plans and find out his requirements

with fitting a 40 cab to the 80 chassi, the cab has to comply to the adr of the chassi year model

for your engine conversion, i suggest a marks adaptor

power steer, use the 80 series ps box n make new hoses and plumb it to ...

you'd be better off getting hold of a complete rolling chassis and that way you can get all of the links, radius arms, coil mounts, steering etc. It will be a lot easier to install and a lot easier to engineer using all factory gear.


im in total agreement with tojo there it made the job easy ,no ...

Hey guys heres my daily driver swb it sits on 35'' tyres with old 2nd hand stock 80 coils with long travel shocks
no sway bars and a xlink to allow the front end to flex.
The rear end is 80 series 4 link with panhard and at front ,80 arms flipped for ground clearance purposes only otherwise stock 80 ...

put 4wd gaurds on a 2wd [doing a low lux up ] and found the front guards where the parker/ indicator lights are , are different
they are angled differently between 4wd and 2wd

needing to know where the three wires on the back of a 80 series alternator go please
to finish of my eng conversion
cheers plowy

It does not matter what size coils or length shocks or even putting the shocks in a new position ,
the problem still remains that the control arms restrict movement

its like a giant sway bar [ the diff and two control arms ] thats why when u remove a bolt from the control arm it allows one arm to ...

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic837 ... ight=xlink

mate have read threw that link on page 4/5 has pics of my 40 series with 80 series diffs n stock coils no sway bars with pics of the xlink fitted after the build up

cheers guys for all the info thanks

It would be the efi 302 windsor out of a xr8 auto and have access to a clevo flywheel starter and adaptor kit as too run a manual
was just worried that the combonation may not suit was the problem as in bad vibration or some other problem/fault

thanks for the info so far

needed to know what the difference between a injected 302 windsor flywheel and a carbyed 351 cevland flywheel is

and is it ok to run the clevo wheel on the windsor engine ?

stud pattern are the same , but the windsor flywheel has its counter weight close to the center of the flywheel ,where the ...

hey guys tryng to chase up a wireing diagram to suit a bj42 lx its a 82 model
have found wireing diagrams in the cruiser bible section but they have no reference to the lx model wich had a tacho and factory air con
i do have orginal workshop manuals but they don't have anything regading the tacho ...

why go slotted rotors ?

they are none machineable if rotors warp or even if they are good enough to go another set of pads and you wish to get them cleaned up , just a point to note ,not eveyone knows of this

or the x link

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic83740-0-asc-0.php

back the cable off first then adjust your brakes then re adjust the cable to get the best result

this peterson
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticl ... index.html

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticl ... index.html

mate its from the 20-30 series range they were made for the war but willys got to keep there hands on the market

stuff the 13bt go a import 14bt
sms diesels prices start from 4 g and get more power from it thwn the 1hz

mud4b wrote:

vSAHARAx wrote: managed to change the pump without taking the timing belt off.

how the hell did you do that?????

cheers mark

yes how did you manage to keep the belt tight on the timing gear so to stop it from skipping a tooth ?

just like wrxzook said and maybe a sharp timber wedge or if you get the
shitz a big hammer and screw driver :lol:

NNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
YOU DO NOT WISH TO MARK THE THE CYLINDER HEAD /BLOCK SEALING SURFACE AREA

use a lever bar or pipe , even timber in the inlet /ex ports and try to lever it up ...

sounds like a wheel balance problem ,need to check all steering joints and check for movement ,

jack up the axle so the wheel is of the ground and check for wheel bearing or king pin movement

if you have movement in the wheel b or kp ,get some one to put there foot on the brake if you still have ...

not sure if its the the right locker but try this

http://thecrawlpit.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1168

buy the look of the heat marks on the flywheel it gets a good work out
and to be breaking the springs its from a hard work out

but il probably get corrected on this

is it runnin twin spring ,are all the springs tight/ firm fit

does the spring look new or old?

its a spring from the clutch center there a dampner spring fitted to absorb shock/load

start saving towards a clutch

best to buy a test light and test the anttena / wireing system

multi valved yota motor would be a better option , atleast when touring or just traveling, parts /repairs would be a hell of alot easyer with the yota motor than the chev

even brighty off of here said he would only buy a car with it done and not fit one himself


a mates auto shop have had to ...

yep or even carby cleaner, thinners