Outer Limits 4x4 Board

True and you get hassled by Parks rangers in Victoria who call them "Dick head mobiles" and the rangers in Queensland generally harass you because it isn't a 75 series and that Queensland beat NSW in the Rugby League!!

When you lift them they tend to limit the travel and get bent and break. I drove around on mine for some time before realising it had broken and didn't notice any difference in body roll or handling. The general advice from my mates was to take it off as they don't make any significant difference on ...

Sometimes the plastic rocker cover warps too - also the genuine Toyota gaskets seem to be a bit thicker and better, although i haven't any statistical measurements to prove that.

and of course check they're still tight after driving 500km or so as the springs settle in.

Yes - my mate has them on his GQ - it is only a 3 inch set-up but I reckon it works a treat. Fits 35s with a bit of guard chopping and flexes well off road. So I imagine they would be good on an 80 as well. I also have Dobinson leafs on my middie and they are pretty good too. They are fairly firm ...

Thanks Cruzaamad

Hit the end of the steering arm to squeeze out the tapered fitting (the eye end). Use a big hammer. It might take half a dozen sharp blows to shift but it should pop out. You won't hit it out by hitting the end where the castle nut screws onto - you'll just destroy the thread. But after some sharp ...

That sounds right - they are supposed to be fairly firm. Usually the same shims are correct.

I have a HZJ73 middie - the previous owner had installed a RTC damper and reckoned it really improved it. Compared with my BJ70 it drives way better and almost car like. However, I feel that that it is too weighted and makes the steering quite heavy and quite a pain off road. Suspect it could make ...

My experience is that Toyota drag link end design is good - I like the way you can adjust them and rebuild if necessary. As for the tie rod ends, I find the after market ones seem to be fine for driving around on the road and last well, but they seem to be a bit of a consumable on my off road toy ...

Also make sure there is enough preload - needs to be fairly firm to move. Otherwise they flog themselves out. The manual specifies the amount - I use a pair of fishing scales to measure the force - 1 kg weight = approx 10 Newtons of force.

The ultimate wider in the front than rear is a Morgan 3 wheeler (good handling). The ultimate wider in the rear than the front is a Reliant Robin, which has terrible handling as shown by Jermey Clarkson tipping one over an over at will. I loved that episode of Top gear.

I thought I knew all that stuff, but I've never knew they made a middie 40. They look really cool. But I'm biased - I like Middies - I have an HZJ73.

Maybe I can start an argument about what an HZJ73 is and whether they were sold in Australia.

Nitriding is a case hardening treatment and very effective at raising surface hardness. Standard CVs are already case hardened though. The stronger ones are full quench & temper and presumably case hardened as well. However, you can't fully quench and temper the standard CVs as they are not ...

Gears will have a thin outer layer of higher carbon and or nitrogen (case carburising, nitriding or carbonitridinge etc) that is much much harder than the base steel. They could be through hardened as well but it will still be much softer under the case hardened region. You need that for wear ...

HZJ75 has the high pinion 8 inch ring gear (smaller diff than the rear) and this is teh same as the 80 series. I know the ARB air locker is the same for both HZJ75 and HZJ79 but I just don't know if the whole carrier is the same.

The pre 1990 HJ75 had the bigger front diff.

Regards,
Paul

I meant just the centre differential carrier that contains the ring & pinion gears and pinion seal (not the whole diff assembly).

Regards,
Paul

Does anyone know if the front diff centre housing on an HZJ79 is the same as HZJ75? Is it a straight bolt on swap? Does it have the same 4.111 ratio (37/9)?

Thanks
Paul

A BJ74 is not a Bundy and has a proper landcruiser gear box already H55F or whatever it is.....

Duragal is only around a 100 grams/square metre zinc (one side only) - purlins are Z350 or Z450, which is about 175 or 225 per side. You really need to paint the Duragal for it to last. Tubes have better stiffness than purlins. The old Palmer/Smorgon mill in Brisbane (now also Onesteel)makes ...

There was a thread in 4WD action that showed some good pictures. The problem is how to attach to the front. I used a tubular section that bolted to the cross member that holds the gearbox transfer in position. The rear ones I clamped around the chassis rails. Seems pretty strong - I've sat the car ...

"Cryo treat" is referring to a heat treatment for maximising the hardness of very highly alloyed steels. These steels don’t fully harden when quenched to room temperature – some of the austenite stays as austenite. The austenite is softer than martensite. Cooling to very cold temperatures will ...

Front diff centres are 4.11 for 70 and 80 series - I think technically 4.1 repeater. Do they have 37 ring gear teath and 9 pinion teeth? 37/9 = 4.111111111....

Rear diffs are 4.1. Same for 80 series (according to my manual anyway). Presumably the centre diff takes up the small difference in full ...

PS I think other 1HZ cruisers also had the r151 gearbox so there must be a way of getting the 1HZ to work with your gearbox.

The HZJ70/HZJ73 have the larger H55F gearbox. I've only seen one PZJ70 and was surprised to see it had the small gearbox rather than the big ones in the BJ/HZJ70/73. From memory the gearbox support cross member was different and in a different position as well. But I don't imagine it being too ...

I think so - probably gets contaminated with water and dirt. But I've been using the blue Valvoline bearing grease which seems to have better water resistance.

Be careful not to use products containing Hydrofluoric acid (HF). That is extremely dangerous - diffuses through the skin without you knowing it and eats away at your bones. It can even be deadly. I can't believe they even sell products containing that for polishing metal for the home handy man ...

The rubber boot on the end of the tie rod would go very close to the rim to the point that a balancing weight on the rim might hit it. They clear OK with the -26 rims I have.

I've nothing against 60's but if you want a more versatile more easily modified truck go for something with coils like an 80 or GQ Patrol. So much easier to lift and put bigger tyres under than a leaf sprung truck. And usually more comfortable as well. And cheaper to modify. Plus they are cheap ...

How much correction do you need? Is it 3 degrees for 2 inch extended shackles? If you had 1 inch extended shackles would it be 1 or 2 degrees? Should even a 2 inch lift with no extended shackles have a small correction?

Thanks