Outer Limits 4x4 Board

well for the people who dont know as much as u guys do about there own vehicel, tihs is a good place to start... every body has to start learning about there shit some where.

well maybe u guys should get new tire guys!

30psi? too low I think I have 31 tires and I think 34-36psi is sort of the right spot, 4wd isn't bouncing around on every bump and stuff. On a Sierra, or an F250? You, and others here, might know what you drive, but some of us have no idea. I did my tyres the other day and run then at abour 40psi ...

32 -34 would be fine for that size tire, any more then that and you would start to compromise the grip of the tire to the road (thats with no load in the vehical)

from what u have decribed.... u need your caliapers rebuilt

and the CAT sticker for the front window, and kenworth mud flaps

Yes and No...., just pull the spring off the diff and it wont do any thing any more.. but not likely the problem... it will be your calliapers causing the problem.... the seals around the piston would have gone hard and not alowing the piston to return correctly, and i would say your caliaper slides ...

i should be able to sort something out... the only problem is i live in townsville now and the forby is on the goldie at the moment... but i should be able to get some to u before monday...

depends on what the kit consist off... but since u have them off... why go half assed at the job....

its a typical nissan problem mate, do a search, and you'll find shit loads of threads on it....

but heres a start...

check..... wheel bearings... swivel hub bearings, radius arm bushes, panhard bushes, and your castor..... any one ofthese will cause that problem

My right hand pipe (2 1/4) runs tight to the block and runs under my bell housing and joins on to the left side just becide the join of the gearbox to the bell housing, then into 3'' mandrel systerm all the back.. My front shaft does touch the pipe, but only just and when under full compression, if ...

less contact of the tread face to the road, so there for less grip... would feel looser on the road, corner like a bitch.. and would not recomend it....

Just cause some one else has been doing it for years , dosent mean it's safe!

i would look at lifting up your tow bar first mate, or maybe trying to intergrade it into your rear bar,... its not really worth stuffing around lifting it up...

why do u need to lift it... the tank sit inline with the chassie rails and shouldent foul up on anything..

plus if u run an electric then you'll have to run a reg.... it would be cheaper to by a new mechanical pump then trying to buy and install an electric one..

Mate... if the problem wasent there when u drove in but is there when u drove out then u should go back to the person who did the work and tell them about the problem... asap... dont leave it for weeks and hope the problem goes away

after u have done the chop and all the welding and prep work, apply seam sealant to all the joins, its rubber based and is the best to seal up the pannels, plus dosent promote rust..

Grease is your friend when installing any metal sleve to a bolt, save for hassels in the long run........

Mate just bash the living snot out of it with a FBH and punch and it will soon give, unless u have an oxy kit, then just cut it out...

I got a Marks kit in my shorty with the 5ltr, and the kit was pretty easy to install, i just had a few troubles getting the right clearance between the pressure plate and the throw out bearing, but a couple of phone calls to marks and it was all sorted, would have no problem using another kit from ...

mate take your oil filler cap off and see if u can see the timing chain ( i think from memory you can just see it) get some one to crank the engin and see if the cam chain moves if not u have broken the chain :bad-words: ... I have seen this on many a GU, i have also hurd of a problem with them ...

33\12.5\15r

on road i run at 28 to 30 psi, and off road 12 to 16 psi

go to REPCO or any parts store and get a gregories EFI DIAG book i think it volume no. 2, its piss easy to read and tells you how to test every thing on the engine management side of things , and cost arond $40, that way theres no hit and miss, and you'll know whats wrong, saves changing sensors for ...

i reocmend getting it dyno tuned, mine hunted with the stock cam and the 286 i had in it, a mate of mine dyno tuned it and problem solved now idles at 800rpm wit the 286 in it... i would say your problems are occuring due to the tune on the memcal.....

Skippy

Sounds like a bent housing

Hey 80lsy ........ where are my sliders??????????????????????????????????

i used the holden one from a VN, works sweet with a couple of little mods...

Biz plate is really heavy...... i would use mild steel, at least it has some give, and wont be so harsh on the chassie and stuff

I love the holden v8 in my cruiuser, most of the points made about them so far are not completely true, everyone is entitled to their opinions but their view inst always correct. My EFI V8 have heaps of torque, more than any inline peterol and as much as most diesels, and yeah it uses more fuel ...

Sounds like u could have a hole in the evaporator, does a pool of water accumulate under the car on the passanger's front floor area.. if not it, the drain could be blocked..... wurth make a A/C disenfectant(spelling... me crap at it) which u spray in the recirc opening( spray abou 1/4 to 1/2 of the ...

jav wrote:low hydrogen (spelling) rods and pre heat for stick.

I agree, Thats what i do and use here out at work, should also heat it up when using a Lincoln or a plain old mig, helps with the peno