Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all,

Iv got a 2010 pk ranger 4x4, I believe in 2010 the options where xl or wildtrack with more or less nothing inbetween.

The wildtrack has roof bard out of factory. Does anyone know how these are fixed? Rivets, captive nut in the roof skin? I would like to put a set on mine

Cheers

i have a ctek d250s DC to DC dual battery charger and was wondering if anybody could give me a rough idea in ideal circumstances (say 25 degrees celsius) how long it would take to charge my 75 ah optima blue top d31m.

it is a 5 stage 20a charger.

thanks in advance for your time

You don't need to run at 24 volt to extent battery life, just run two 12 volt batteries in parallel on your auxiliary system. Charging times will double though, so unless you do a lot of driving between camp spots you might have issues sorry.. correct me if i'm wrong but the way i thought it worked ...

i have a ctek dc to dc dual battery controller to charge my auxiliary battery and i would like to add a third battery and potentially run my accessories at 24v so that my fridge and led lights last longer when camping.. so heres my idea. obviously i have my main battery and when the motor runs the ...

particularly after a rear main because the last one i put in was a POS and started leaking the next day (note it was all rubber but wouldve had a spring in it)... not really fond of donating the $80 odd bucks to the japanese either :roll: Are there any good aftermarket rear mains out there? with a ...

Take the drive shaft off I allways mark the the Nut on one corner and the diff (so lines match when back on) Pull out the tab ,I do half turn takes alittle longer with a breaker bar So start on passengers side horizontal then to drivers side Horizontal along line of diff counting how many turns ...

yep yep but mine was impossible to do back up without the impact gun.. be gentle tapping in the seal too but that's a no brainer

i assume it'd be the same as a lux. just drop the tailshaft off and take that flange off and you can get at it from there.. an impact gun comes in reall handy to get that nut off though.

best of luck . with the right tools it's a 10 minute job

its just a rubber ring sortof with a spring to tighten it over the crank. hasnt got the steel bit like the axle seals do i checked the surface and it was actually mint. Which was very unexpected given the condition of all the axles etc. the theory at the moment is that pressure mustv built up and ...

my rear main is leaking... AGAIN i changed it and within 2 days it was leaking just as bad as it was before and i hadnt been offroad. Anybody got any idea as to why it would start leaking again so quickly? next time i get the box off ill check for endfloat in the crank but has anybody else run into ...

yeah in guessing ther will be a decent groove in there given the condition of everything else iv changed.. was half considering going out and buying a speedy sleeve just incase. any idea what there worth or where to get them?

sweet as thanks for that. I'll look into one of those aligners. I heard getting them aligned was a bit of a bastard. the way it's looking I might be trying to do it on my own which'll be fun.. I rekon I'm gunna try lift the box up and down using ratchet straps attached to the rock sliders.. should ...

hey guys. iv gotta change this seal as iv been putting it off for too long and now the oil is leaking wayyy to fast. iv got quiet limited knowledge but have a rough idea what to do.. is there anyone out there who can tell me what to be careful of and what problems I might run into? and does anybody ...

any of them in Melbourne.. and whatta the odds of being able to pick some up today?

so I did :). cheers for that and the bushes! I used them on my front end when I threw my old rear springs up front. hey how would you go about repairing a big hole in the chassis? my shock hoop (currently still the stock one) has basically ripped almost off downwards leaving a hole about 5 inches by ...

sweet as I'll try find those pics but I really do want to see one before i start drilling and welding mounts to my chassis.. if I can't find one closer I probably will come take a look before this weekend. did I buy something off you previously weiner? you seem very familiar :p

bought a kit from locktup and I'm hoping to throw it in this weekend. is there anyone in Melbourne, preferably western suburbs with one in so I an come have a look?

txt or call on 0404946665 or pm..

sweet as cheers

hey guys, went through a bit of mud and ever since it has been squeeling at low speeds from the rear end.. I jacked up the rear and had a listen and it sounds as if it's coming from the middle of the tailshaft that drops from the centre bearing to the diff. does it sound like a centre bearing and ...

thanks all.. changed it last weekend and the drum was full of oil. beat the axle on a bit of wood real hard to get that retaining ring off (didn't want to damage the axle.. read that if you Nick the axle at all you weaken it substantially..) "found" a suitable pole to use to smack the new one on and ...

the diff probaly wont break because it wont be in there long enough welding up front diffs is a waste of time 1 u will break cv's 2 u wont need the steering system any more as it wont do anything any way(the truck won't want to turn) better off with an air locker or auto locker or just leave it 3 ...

this'll be fun. no "big" hammers. no press and I'll have to sort something out for a bar. priced up a kit with the bearing, retaining clip, o ring and inner and outer axle seals and sounds like that'll be what I'll be doing today. thanks for the link, it'll come in handy and thanks all for the help

thanks for that. makes sense and that wheel bearing didn't sound too healthy a while ago so it's time for a service. new seal, new bearing sounds the go. are the rear bearings hard to change? done my fronts a couple weeks ago but I hear rears are very different..

I'm thinking it's the axle seal. the car is a 92 ln106 lux, just wondering how hard this seal is to change? or if anyone out there has any other ideas as to what's leaking. it's coming out of the centre of the wheel

thanks all

hey mate. where'd you get the rams and pump from and how much did they set you back?

just to double check.. fat end towards the front or back?

thanking you

my stopping distance was pretty shithouse before but that's why I upgraded the brakes.. didn't do a gq conversion but I hope to eventually but with new rotors, drums and qfm 500 degree pads and shoes I can lock all 4 wheels in the dry so I'm reasonably happy with the brakes for the moment. chimpboy ...

does anyone know the law with spotties? as in are roof mounted ones illegal, and do they need to be within a certain distance of the ground, how many etc?

provided you dont go around driving like a tool. haha in a 2.8l diesel? it's a bit hard to drive wrecklessly in one of those things... No it isn't, and it's a real worry when people with very limited driving skills/experience say stuff like that, especially when they drive a vehicle that doesn't ...

so now with the wheels covered below the axle line.. flares out past the Tyres and ADR approved tail lights I should be as safe as i can get considering aye? get your car engineered for the mods, once they find out its engineered, they will leave you alone - provided you dont go around driving like ...

I got pinned the stupid idiot didn't even notice that my front wheel was on a hardcore angle and grinding like crazy (completely collapsed wheel bearing) The officer didn't need to notice anything in particular except the mudflaps- once RWC box is ticked the officer knows it's all going to get ...