Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have seen factory inj TBs in NZ Maybe make some enquiries over here

Yes they are simple if you have any mechanical nounce. They usually come with instructions

No point worrying about welding in the taper when you have welded strongbacks to the tierods themselves

I thougth the Ford XY 4WD utes had different ratios factory

If they are angle torque bolts then they are only designed for a single use. The angular torque stretches the bolt beyond its elasticity and it cannot return to its unused length therefore they cannot be used again as they will not provide the correct clamping force the second time.

Just put bigger tyres on it. I run 31s on my 4d56 L200

If you find the brake pedal a bit soft Iwan, you may find the flex hoses are stretching under brake pressure. They only expand a small amount but over the whole vehicle it can add up to a bad pedal, better to run hard lines where you can.
Excellent job, well done by the way.

The arms are 1.5" longer so you must do top, bottom, axle, and outer tie rod end

Remove the cv circlip and tie rod end to allow more travel of the hub assembly. Sometimes you need to remove the steering stop

Having sold and instaled OME for many years I consider their stuff quite good, however their pajero rear shocks seem to fail prematurely, tearing the lower eye and releasing the oil.

The sidewards angle of the driveshaft amplifies the angle of the front uni. It also puts angle on the rear uni which usually only compensates for flex in your diff bushes. I have seen "soft" paj driveshafts where the eyes move out of line whist replacing UJs. The 60mm bushes are on the later arms ...

A longer bar is softer unless its diameter is greater. They use longer bars to allow the twist over more length. I have seen the rear splines welded to a piece of pipe with the adjuster on the other end allowing the longer bar in the factory mounts. There is a formula for working out torsion bar ...

If you have a gen 1 fitting gen 2 top and lower arms widens your track, by about 1.5", which gives you more movement at the wheel

Be aware the rover car starters foul the front driveshafts in R.Rovers.
An angle brace from the front of your tray to the chassis to help support the cage may be required. Not criticisms, just hopefully helpful comments

yes but the thread would be chafing on bushes, washers and s.bar when disconnected

I have worked with this style of disconnect before but the sway bar bushes require tension and it is quite hard to get the pin in with tension on the bushes.

Some import pajeros come with airbags over the rear springs and on the torsion bar adjusters allowing for @ 2" of lift. The have their own air pump.

Fido oil leaks are: Tappet covers, front and rear valley seals, rear main seal. Make sure you renew the flame traps on the hoses from the tappet covers to the inlet manifold, I have washed these out and they still pressurized the crankcase. Crankcase pressure is the 2nd cause of oil leaks after ...

Have a competant diesel mechanic look at any jap import diesel, vehicles don't get the nessecary servicing in japan and diesels can get extreme wear with their higher loadings. Also they can sit for a while between coming off the road in japan and going on the road here and any water in the fuel ...

I have fitted later arms to early pajeros and tritons so I would assume you can. There is a bit of miss and matching to make it all work

Ive done the reverse, put an early t/c in my 94 to get more rear d/s length. It works but its not just bolt in, I had to drill one hole that didn't line up and the t/c lever is in a different place inside.

Your other noise could be a stone in your brake backing plate.
Sometimes driving backwards hard then braking will remove it.

I have seen ARB's get substanial waer in the spider and side gear teeth. Again ARB said not a warrenty issue. They can also wear the case and spider gear shims giving excess movement

IMHO the seals don't work as well as aisen ones. They also wear out in the hub spinning arround the cv all the time. I seem to replace more w/brgs with aftermarket hubs allowing the crap in.

I did it last year, parts are 1/2 Marks and 1/2 advance adaptors x usa.
4wd upgrades in chch supplied about a grand from memory

The early hilux boxs are weak, so you run the late hilux box with an adaptor to the early t/case which are gear driven. The late t/case's are sun + planet which is why they are too hard too make lower gears for

I f you remove/reduce the load on a turbo it can/will over-speed and this will cause oil leaks. Clean it all up and reassemble it then run it and monitor the oil usage

The CV has less misalignment than the UJ, I think they only came out on the swb. The 3.5 t/c has a larger output spline from memory

The pwr stg winchs are slow and expensive, about 1/2 the speed of a patrol pto. The paj pto's won't mesh with your transfer gears, they only fit the early, 1984, models.

Engage the front hubs, securely raise the rear wheels off the ground, engage 4wd and run the engine in 1st, the front d/shaft should turn and so should 1 axle out of the front diff. The axle that turns is the problem side, ie stripped spline, broken cv.