Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Update 1 didn't do it coming home today at all and I purposely drove it harder home to try and make it happen again. This morning it did it while driving and while at a standstill I should add

Just had the head redone been back on the road now for 3 weeks and a metallic whine started coming from engine bay. Checked all fluid levels and everything is as it should be so assumed it was a noisy pulley.

Pulling into work today I noticed and have had it commented before that there was a knock ...

25 x-flows had decent compression but can't remember what. Problem is a steel block rather than alloy.they don't handle boost well. Most people I know who have them have gone a turbo running max 8 pound boost.

For those that don't know the 250 x-flow engine is from a 83 to 88 model falcon the crossflow was dumped in the 89 ea falcon

Is it the 4.1 x-flow engine if so ignore the comments on Ford doing the research for.you. These motors respond better to a cam upgrade then a turbo or supercharger. For forced induction of any kind these motors need new pistons and rods as a minimum.

If you want more guts I'd put in a newer engine ...

I've got a 93 with disc rear non abs. there were early 80s with a drum rear so I.think you'd be looking at either a 93 or 94 80 series booster.

Mate of mine has 2inch shackles with longer springs, high steer the.wide.track kit mentioned before and dual cases. And soon twin lockers.

If I was on a budget I'd start with decent protection and spring lift first especially the bash plate for the transfer then widening kit with 60 series offset ...

More likely the valve seats have dried out do you run additive with the gas.

hulsty wrote:80 diff is full floating too and has more upgrades available if you stick with its standard width, better brakes.

Depends on the year early 80s had drum rears I think after 92 they changes to disc.

My old mans 75 had the same problem turned out to be a dodgy relay not shutting the fuel pump off and a bad earth. When tested his.earth was good but.we ran a second earth cable from battery to.motor then from motor to.battery.and hasn't skipped a beat since.

Dirty fuel pump / injectors is.quite common also check / replace.timing belt.

Some cars need glowing twice.when.they get older as well so maybe turn key to on for 5 seconds then off and repeat before.starting. if the relays working that is

Ebay would be the first place I'd check

Be careful there are abs and non abs masters for80 series.I just replaced my master cylinder in my non abs 80. They can be had for under 100 brand new on ebay

Don't know.about.the boosters but with the proportioning valves the toyota one is load sensing where a the screw type is just set and doesn't change. Being a offroad car and I'd assume not being used for towing if just go with the screw type.

Ok please let me clarify I am using the standard ac pump in my cruiser. No idea if its a sanden or not but its defiantly not a york.

Maybe look at gu patrols not sure what price they're going for though. Will at the very least Tow anything you want with plenty of.room for touring

Maybe unlikely but could always be computer. This would throw your injection and firing order out of whack. Have you checked the dizzy / stupid box controller thing that tells it to fire.

Am in the process of collecting the parts needed to instal an on board air setup in my cruiser already have tank, manifold with pressure gauge, switch and safety relief valve. Have a tank.

Am going to try to use the ac pump that's already on the cruiser as the refrigerant lines are stuffed anyway ...

The only reason to buy one in my opinion would be for the safety aspect in the event of a rollover.

My old man ran one and reckons they're no better power wise.than a standard battery. I've been looking at another battery for a dual battery setup and you can get much.higher cranking and more ah for the.same money in agm style battery. For. Same price I can get a truck battery which apart from the ...

I have the 110 amp diesel alternator on my petrol 80 runs fine. Bolted up to.the.same brackets.

I'd try a different dash maybe the dash electrics are stuffed. You could also run new earth.leads from battery to body then from body to.chassis to cover most bases

Another thing would be spark plugs if these are fouled it can.cause this.

Well in that case it would be tyre barwork winch. I got my car with the lift done so haven't had personal experience with lifts

Could be starving of fuel. Check blocked injectors, o2 sensor

With a 3 inch on the suspension castor.is bearable (or so I've been told). I'd get 3 inch coils 4 inch shocks. Sliders and.winch.

Ifs or.solid axle. If its ifs I'd keep the 2 inch and spend.the money on decent network and lockers instead.

Motors dead checked power to motor with switch in loop and was getting 12.4 volt to motor even tried connecting.it.straight to power. Had to remove motor and some well placed tec screws and.cables.ties to hold window shut

So its got power, and have checked all wires for continuity and all is good wiring wise. Some times it works some times it doesn't. at this point can be either switch or window regulator itself.sometimes hitting the door will make it work. Any idea on which it may be or at the very least as a huge ...