Outer Limits 4x4 Board

There are a few rigs here in the US where we have swapped a Starion rear LSD into the front of a Gen I V6 axle. I think they will also fit the later Gen IIs as they have a similar carrier and the bigger housing. (The earlier Gen IIs had the same front as the Gen I 2.6.) There are many threads on ...

I don't think swapping in an SR rear will be the same bolt-in that it is here in the US. Here all the Gen I LWBs were V6s and coil rears. That makes the SR rear mostly bolt-in. Your Gen I LWB is leaf-sprung, as you know. Here in the US the Monto Sport with a rear locker is mostly a bolt-in. Did the ...

OldColt on 4x4Wire did a 3.8 non-MIVEC into a US spec 95 SR (3.5 DOHC).

Search on 4x4Wire.com for info. In general, people there have swapped Gen II smaller with Gen II bigger/locker, and Gen I to Gen II bigger/locker. I think there maybe a Gen I to Gen II smaller/locker as well. IIRC, no one had to do any major work to fit things. For my Gen II to Gen II, I just need ...

There are a bunch of us in the US that have done a Starion 2.6 turbo swap. With that, we use an external electric pump with the stock tank without any problem. Mounting the pump close to the tank is the best. We strap to the frame cross member in front of the tank. Use a couple of big radiator ...

toastmaster wrote:i was just on a website with one it was 1200 USD, i'll have to g back and find it. i'll pm you later.

Anything come of this one? Did you track down that site?


P.S. Hi OTEP... Hope the doctor's life is going well!

The 33s fit my rear fine in general. But, with the front cranked, once you load up the back, it sits a little ass low for my preference. I put some coil spacers in for about 1". Our lucky mates down under can scavange springs from the likes of a Patrol. For us, we have to buy taller, or go with ...

My 95 took 33s with the fronts t-bars cranksed a little. Not sure if you NEED some non-factory wheels that are wider and with betteroffset/backspacing. Should get some 8" though for 33s. They clear the bumbper ends except on a tight turn under fuller steering lock,like when turning into the driveway ...

Is your friend in the US I as well? If so, 91 here is the last of the Gen 1s. The US market gets them a year later, and without some of the cool stuff our mates down under, and in other places get. Get a set of mid-90s Montero rear springs and crank the t-bars. Assuming 33x12.5s, you will need ...

You can follow the link in my sig to find a bunch...

Be sure to check out the second thread from the top titled "Sticky: Pajero Model / Tech Imfo Database." Good stuff...

Right. Got mine from Mark as well. (Shipped to US.)

(Capn, can't to hear more on the PTO...)

CapnCrunch wrote:...he manufactured a custom set of PTO gears to work with my 2.85 gears for me and he was letting me know they were done.

You suck!

The tops here in the US can be cranked shut by hand if needed. There is a cover between the switch for the roor, and the front dome light. The cover says "Sunroof." You can pop it off to access an allen crank screw. Then, in the tool kit in the rear door, nested in bhind the lug wrench and other ...

NJV6 wrote:Yep, pic is bang on.

The pic is good, but look at the adjusting bolt. It's already cranked pretty tight. I don't see much more lift coming out of the t-bar without reindexing.

Also, if you crank them very far, you will likely want to get it aligned.

Hey Mates! I am currently in the throes of PDFing all I have. In addition, others that hang out on 4x4Wire.com are sending me some to fill in the blanks. These will mostly be US based FSMs, though they should be of general use to those down under who have petrol motors. Also remember that in the US ...

Wow, Frank! Haven't lurked over in a while and when I do...

I've been grappling lately with maybe selling my SWB turbo. But parting with it is noting compared to you and your truck.

Good luck with it all and please stick around some. You're contributions would be sorely missed...

1hzzz: Sorry, I come here off and on, but mainly hang out on 4x4Wire.com. I need to find where I put the template and get it scanned, etc. When I do I'll post back over here. Feel free to PM me if I don't post up soon and kick me in the arse! Also, here is an article that just went up on 4x4Wire ...

We do it here in the US with a [relatively easy] swap from the Starion. Thing is, over here the car with a turbo'd 2.6L. I believe you got a 2.0L there. For us it's mainly a matter of swapping in the motor, the main wiring harness, and the computer. Don't know how you would get it together over ...

I am planning on making one of my own for my 87 SWB. While I would like the Safari, there is this cost thing to deal with. So my hope was to make my own, but mount it just like a Safari would go. That way I can put a Safari on another day when I have more funds. To do this, I managed to get the help ...

Assuming the GenIIs are like the GenIs... You have what amounts to three boots. One is the "finished" one you see everyday when shifting. Under that is another that serves to keep the outside world underneath from coming up into your cabin. Then there is a third under that which keeps the outside ...

There's someone here in the US who put on a similar set. There is an article on 4x4Wire. He does not mention having to drill. Here's a link..
http://www.4x4wire.com./mitsubishi/tech/bumpstop/

Here in the US, I believe the ARB 110(?) will fit the 3.0L V6 front axles, including the Gen I versions. I have a V6 now in my front (4-cyl truck) that is installed with an LSD. The V6 front will fit easily. Over here we need to get the dust shields and brake parts as well. And in the process, most ...

HG wrote:The worst part of the install was getting the friggin snap ring in between the high & low gears when it was about 90% assembled...

With regard to DougH, does the Gen II 3.0 12V case have the same snap ring issue? IOW, will Doug need the custom ground pliers?

How is the garden edging attached? Just fit it around and use scews and washers? Can it be done without seeing the screws?

I would have them do the rear main seal as well. It's a 10USD part that takes literally five minutes to change, but can only be done with the tranny off. Here in the US it's typically done at the 120k miles service point. But as long as you are in there...

I've got US version in PDF. It would only be for LWB and would not have any diesel stuff. Plus it would be "right" hand drive (meaning left hand, the right way. J/K) Two volumes, one for engine/body/chassis and one for electrical. They are both ~75MB. No way to download without broadband. Be happy ...

Frank: All good stuff... Yeah, I remember that "other thread." Myself, I am still very new to wheeling so it's hard for me to qualify it all. I know you guys do drive your rigs, or so the threads would say. There are some people here who drive hard as well, though it does seem like there are only a ...

Frank: Your personal choice is very much what Lizzord30 and srpoly are running. I think there is someone else on MPI as well, but I can't remember who. And of course if fasteddy ever gets with the program again... Based on all that you laid out in your last post, I can't help now but ask, "What's up ...

Makes sense. I've never dealt with an aftermarket FMS. Since the Starion here came with it all, it is a very simple swap. Just have to splice a few wires and fit a few things like the I/C and oil cooler. That's what made it so appealing for a newbie like me. I have all the service manuals as well so ...