Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Yep just dies, runs out of fuel
I only just made it to the servo yesterday with it coughing and spluttering and I could only fit 65 litres in it ....filled it and it runs fine
iit has a new fuel filter and I have checked the screen on the input to the lift pump, thoroughly cleaned the water trap and ...

I am trying to find out why I am only able to use 65 litres from my 90 litre tank at the moment
It all points to a blocked strainer in the tank caused by a dose of water and algae
but does any one know what the pickup strainer and surrounds looks like?...any photos? that would confirm my theory
or ...

FRP - "fibreglass replacement parts" do flares for them, they were probably moulded from the origanal sahara flares or very similar
They are at Redcliffe
Cheers
Scott

No Noise
what tread pattern? A/T or M/T
and how much ? if ya don't mind tellin
I have 33x12.5 M/T and the only reason they aren't on the car all the time is the road noise
Scott

I am looking at intercooling my 12HT also but with water to air
because there is bugger all space up front when you have an auto fluid cooler as well and the water to air radiator is much smaller
also I know I would eventually get the 2.5 inch ducting in under the headlights etc but I know they ...

Not sure about your overheating problem but the stalling is quite common for a worn 12HT pump.... apparently it is caused by wear on linkages in the governor which can be reduced by tinkering with the dampener spring or adding a dampener if it doesn't have one already
Cheers
Scott

Yes
The 1/4 glass frame and front slide for the glass are all the one frame it is held in by a bolt near the winder handle and three screws under the rubber seal on the front of the door
I know because I just changed my frame because the bottom of it rusted out
Cheers
Scott

The switch you ar elooking for is the ignitionbut can be measured on the vacuum solenoid near butterfly easy to diagnose....when the ignition key is in off position and does not stop get out and manually push the lever attached to the solenoid ( I do it when working on the car it beats walking ...

I too ...would love to see some photos

I too have a PTO that needs a good home no winch but it came off a late model 60 series it has the symetrical bolt pattern...if I could figure out why I can't post pics any more I would show ya
Cheers
Scott

most probably castor wobble....mine did it too after a tyre change also (31's to 33's) while there seems no logic in how tyre dia. would affect castor ...I took the advice of a steering specialist and they added more height to my existing spring wedges and it is all good

You'll know if you need anti inversion shackles because when off road and the wheel droops down the shackle may become inline with with the spring and when it compress's again the shackle may travel up instead of forward and away from the diff (with reference to the front axle of course because it ...

I have had success with oiling before to stop the needle shake...just buy adding a little at a time from the top of the cable (thin oil helps)
This may help your squeak unless it is in the instrument itself not the cable!

Hardest part is turning the motor over to the correct adjusting point....only because you need to remove the fan and shroud and they are difficult to extricate ..
anyway when i did mine I cut the lower half of the fan shroud and made it removable so now I only remove two M6 bolts and can get access ...

Got mine for $5000 has 418000Kms on it
motor & turbo was rebuilt at around 400K gearbox (auto) replaced last week more as a precaution only had a slight shudder
and i had to do front hub seals and all the brakes when i got it... slip and uni joints are all on the sad side but luckily the body is ...

There isnt any real power gain by going full 3" throughout the entire system, get a straight 3" dump pipe of the turbo, into a mandrel bent 2 1/2" with hi flow/no muffler.

Dj Hansen
What is the point in 3inch dump into 2.5 mandrel? Vs 3inch throughout
My view is 3inch standard pipe with Hi flow ...

Yep you should be able to get the little vacuum solenoids (2 of) pretty easily and fit them up My FJ73 was vacuum operated
Basicaly H4 electric swith on the dash switchs the solenoid which blocks vacuum going to the actuator in fact I think you will find that with no vacuum applied the transfer will ...

gotoy
notable ommission was your exhaust size????
I had a 2LT in a 86 Dual cab on 31's with only one Mod ...3inch exhaust and Turbo Muffler ( could see straight through it, token effort really)
and it had no problem passing and getting up around the 130k/hr mark had heaps of torque and was good to ...

C'mon someone must have seperated these boxes before?

Just fitted a import auto to my HJ61 Import had gear oil and mine was running auto fluid
Question is....
Are the transfer cases different ? are there oil galleries between auto and transfer or are they totally isolated? (obviously I haven't seperated them yet)
AND slightly off topic just want to ...

MITSO
You say "Fluid" is it an auto or manual

Auto is down the dipstick tube slowly slowly check so you don't overfill as per dipstick etc and manual is as per previous posts through the big hex nut on the side fill it until it runs down your arm

Yep both are vacuum no mech. I have a leak in my L4 vac line or solenoid and have to push the H4 button to get drive to the front
will fix it one day

The 4 Speed is no better ....
My brother in law popped two of them in a row behind a 302 Clev before resorting to a C4

If you decide to keep your electric telescopic it is pretty easy to replace the mast...they are available at super cheap in various mast diameter's around 9,10 or 11mm and you just need to turn the radio on undo the nut at the top and fish out the old mast and tail
get the new one ready and feed ...

I tried but difficult to measure when they are on the car
I have 15x8's with 33x12.5's on a HJ61 and they appear to measure approx -44mm offset and they clear the tie rod end on the inside by about 10mm (the weights touched on my FJ73) and the tyre sits flush with the outside of the car at the rear ...

surely someone (transport dept or engineers) will want/need to check out your welding on the mounts and general install quality?
That's the way it is in QLD costs about $50 (6 years ago) and they just have a quick poke around under the bonnet and fix a mod plate to it
Cheers
Scott

I imagine the FJ73 is very similar
I had 33's on mine with 2" spring lift and they scrubbed on the inner guard wall but then so did the set of 265/75 16's (on splits) I had on for a while
the rear guard well is very narrow and it won't matter if you lift the body it will still scrub the same spot ...

I have a similiar issue with mine however mine is so bad it will stall after stabbing the pedal and it has been suggested that an external dampener can be fitted to fix it
I believe some governors have it built in and some don't but a quick fix is to fit the dampener which costs around $150-250
Has ...

Boost gauge could be t'eed off the small hose running between your throttle body and factory Red an green light switchs on the inner drivers side guard
Pyro... Phsssff... that's why we pay the big bucks to the injection places....do an oil preesure gauge instead
Cheers
Scott

Yep great trick putting it in gear if it's a manual
with my auto I ended up cutting a section out of the fan shroud and refitting it with a couple of bolts ....so I can do it easily next time...
and went and bought the 46mm socket required for the crankshaft...nice and easy now
P.S. no glow plugs ...