Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Maybe some easier terrain would bring more competitors in. Build it and they will come Steve?

Why not run a 64" wms and if it feels too narrow just use spacers?

The dates set for lcmp didn't work for the park owners and no agreement could be met for other dates so The vote was for going to emu ck to run different tracks brook.

Rolly wrote:shame we will be at tuff truck when your first round is on .

Same

Buggies shouldn't be at ttc. The tracks are not difficult enough. The cage material rule is all good, if this material is as good as everyone bangs on about my new build will be indestructible. The ttc/ Aust4 chassis rail thing is a questionable statement, I can't see why a chassis rail should ...

Seeing one go together Evan, there is a lot that I personally would change. Obviously there would be some that get bought and put together and driven, but I'm pretty sure you would find the majority of people buying them would be changing tubes to fit parts. And I don't think the goat built is ...

Whether you buy a built chassis or a goat built style flat pack chassis from the states there will always be work to do to the chassis to accommodate your own tastes, driveline,suspension. There are so many factors that need to be taken into account that there simply is no such thing as a 1 size ...

My rear air locker went in the front carrier no dramas. Whole swap was just a bolt in deal. I didn't bother with raising the filler plug, I just fill it from one side jacked up.

It gets the tailshaft further away from hitting on rocks etc. you do need to run same oil levels as in a front diff to keep the pinion lubed. I've done it on my shorty comp truck and it has helped heaps with clearance. On a street driven rig it will also get rid of any uni vibration (normally only ...

yeah i guess with no drive it should be alright, i don't think you would be able to do this anyway as i think the outer shaft is longer on the 80 series longs compared to the patrol outer so you would not be able to just rip out the guts of a trol hub to bolt it on for road duties. could be wrong ...

i think thats the best budget offering here, gu diff with longfeilds :armsup: I think they have warranty and cv's are servicable.would buy a set but my new project is road driven as well. What about running free wheeling hubs with no internals during the day and changing to drive flanges when your ...

mine runs heaps cooler with the radiator in the back. Don't need another pump, think pressure versus volume. can't help you with the legal side but for every other reason i say it's a big yes.

Pretty sure some one is building longfield cvs to suit nissan gq gu and then running hub adapter.has any one heard any more seems like a cheaper opion to me rather than spending big money hybrid diifs. Dragtec is doing this set up using the 80 series longfields with custom axles and drive flanges ...

Pretty sure some one is building longfield cvs to suit nissan gq gu and then running hub adapter.has any one heard any more seems like a cheaper opion to me rather than spending big money hybrid diifs. Dragtec is doing this set up using the 80 series longfields with custom axles and drive flanges ...

i know that's in the rules. i was posting that up as an alternative to the front profile rule so that all cars would have a minimum size to work to but still maintain tha overall profile of the car. as these cars can be built around a cage it would mean that they are only modifying the bonnet and ...

would it be viable to allow the narrowing of the whole car so that it can still retain a factory appearance, albeit just narrower. maybe have a minimum width at the a pillar similar to that of a 40 series so that there isn't an advantage for either make? AKA, the whole car is within the 80%?!

i like the look of your bracing Wicked, but do you have dramas with water and mud getting stuck in there?

they should go on, i changed the manual hubs from my gq diff with the auto hubs on my new gu diff. Straight changeover.

yeah looking at the front of mine, i can't see how you could do it without doing a triangulated 4 link. Bummer!

yeah, not alot of room with an adjustable panhard and steering. what about getting a new drag link made up with a bend to clear the panhard mount? surely if it was out of 6mm wall it would be strong enough.

is that a wear mark on the front of the diff housing from the panhard hitting when you had the spacers in?

no speed work yet as haven't put the steering stabilser back on and with the 42's she gets a bit wobbly over 50.

i have just done a 3 link front end on mine. i made drop boxes for the lower arms and used the rear factory mounts on the diff. the upper has it's mount on top of the pumpkin with the chassis mount on the inside of the rail above the driveshaft (tight fit!). i used rear control arm bushes on the ...

i can't post photos on here, but i can email em to you. pm me your email or they are on my fb account if you want to hava a look there.

i extended my wheelbase by using longer control arms mounting from the factory crossmember. then i cut up a rear cut to use all the factory shock and spring crossmember, and the factory panhard mount. the minor issues i had with the chassis dropping down at the back won't be an issue for you if you ...