Outer Limits 4x4 Board

If you're going that way, you might as well go for a run-of-the-mill VL turbo or similar. I'm pretty sure the RB25/26 Skyline turbos had T25 flanges anyway.

I breifly looked into it a while ago (i've got a T3 too), and the options were to have the existing one tricked up ($1400ish), get a T25/T3 adapter and GT28 of some description and re-do all plumbing (probably over $1700 and lots of time), OR get a shop to basically build a custom unit out of the ...

Contamination on the assembly line sounds the most feasible, however there'd be a whole batch of cars with the same issue if this was the case. Other reasons may be that it's been dunked in salt water on the boat over, or possibly has some "other stories" behind it before you purchased it (dealer ...

750 degrees celcius pre-turbo is a maximum safe peak, as in you can spike it to 750C for a few seconds, however sustained temps that high will eventually damage something, and/or start melting things. I generally go to 650C as my safe spike temperature as i can't afford to be rebuilding engines at ...

From memory, the early N/A TD42's had "normal" pistons and rods, and then from 1994 (??) up to 1997 (??) the N/A TD42's were fitted with lighter internals to make the engine more driveable in N/A form. Less inertia resulting in a more responsive engine i suppose. But yes, there was a change, however ...

big red wrote:was thinking of wacking 35"s on my MK ute with sagged stock springs ... much chopping involved ?

The springs i was using came out of a SWB, and they were stock. I had a load spring removed from the rear too.

Guards are cheap.

1991 Wagon, 4" lift, steel bar, highmount; I used to get up to 9L/100km before i put the turbo on, now i get about 11L/100km with the turbo. In the bush on 35's with the car loaded with gear i get 15-16L/100km.

I had 37's on a ute, so can only comment on the front. I trimmed about 2" off the arches, and adjusted the steering stops so the tyres didn't hit the spring packs. I also had dramas with the tyres ripping out the indicators when the tyres compressed into the guards. If you're not scared of trimming ...

Good price: $6000 What it'll sell for, maybe $5000. I know someone that picked up a mint one owner 89 GQ TD42 SWB with about 270,000km on it for $3000 a month or three ago, never been off road. EDIT: You haven't mentioned if it has a RWC or registration - and none of us have got any idea what ...

just wondering whether anybody has made their own drop boxes for a gu. and do you still have the measurements for them i,m having a hard time justifing the cost of them cheers ian I thought about making my own, but after working out my time plus materials, it worked out to be around the same to ...

They're $40-$60 each from memory. Part numbers should be on here somewhere.

They're a pretty simple setup. You should be able to hear the wireless receiver clicking (disconnect the control output wires first). If it isn't clicking and there's definately something faulty, give paul a call. Excellent after sales service.

I'd strip the piston down, clean it all up (make sure theres no score marks or dags), then re-assemble with all new seals.

I've just fitted mine up, they're cheap Maxtor rectangular ones like this with a HID kit (had them lying around for years): http://i.speedup.com/SPEED%20UP/Preparazioni%20esterne/Proiettori%20supplementari/jpg/1012227-b_200x200.jpg I had some leftover 2" poly body blocks from a body lift kit, so I ...

I'd probably look at a small diff ratio change, but i really think an auto would definately outweight your gains with shorter ratios, as with the shorter ratios you'll be swapping gears more often=time wasted.

I'd seriously consider getting a new windscreen seal while your at it, if the current one is older than 5-6 years.

Give it a crack, given that you've already got the turbo. You can't be any worse off compared to N/A, and if it doesn't suit you can always swap it out later on.

What motor is it? 3L or 4.2L ? The bad It will need to be blue slipped It has 310XXX ks on the clock Not a massive issue if all of the "normal" high km items are checked over. Both back doors have rust all around the windows Second hand doors can be picked up for $50 each. there is about 5" of rust ...

A mechanical gauge should come with wiring harness for the backlight, ferrule and nut, length of small diameter rated signal line (usually black or transparent, about 2-3mm OD), and a T-peice with another ferrule/nut and barbed in/out fittings to allow you to tap into your boost signal line. I've ...

Personally, I'd go for a quality mechanical boost guage over one of the Auber units, the reasons being for the slow refresh rate of the Auber digital unit, and that I find proper guages are easier to look at or reference to. Don't get me wrong - Auber stuff is awesome, but i'd never swap my boost ...

The Auber Instruments Pyrometer gauges will do a HUGE number of things, however each requires the gauge in a different mode, which subsequently means only one measurement at a time. If you have a dig around for the first group buy for these, i posted a link to a document that had instructions for ...

hi guys thanks for the info, i just spoke to rankin diesel in bayswater to get an idea of figures and he said turning up the screw on standard pump with turbo is not a good idea as it will put in to much fuel till it hits boost? Not really an issue unless it gets turned up a shitload. More fuel ...

can someone please post a link to these cheap winches as i am still seeing them on ebay for like no less than 700 Thanks Shane Mulcahy That would be because the Tigerz11 winches start at the $700 mark. If you're looking for a $400 winch, go to Aldi, but as said aready - you can't beat the value and ...

I have a 3" straight through mandrel bent exhaust on my GQ, and its not loud at all. No droning either. I've fitted the same exhaust to a GU TD42T and it was marginally louder, it had more of a "bark" and the turbo whistle is quite a bit louder too. Nothing over the top though.

I'm pretty sure the stock pumps (no compensator) on GQ's can only support up to 100-110rwkw, thats going of Ben's TD42 with Laminova and BB turbo i think.

how was the prep done? just to be super sure. right now the rims are bare steel, just had the centers welded in. Clean the shit out of them, then clean them again. Start with brake cleaner, then go to a wax/grease/prepsol cleaner with appropriate rag. Hit it with some sand paper or a flapper disc ...

I've used metal armour in the past with good results, but as said, you need to spend some time prepping them.

BadMav wrote:Don't be tight, fix it.

x2

And if money's tight, don't drive it until you've got the funds to fix it. You'll probably cover your engine bay in soot too if you keep driving it.

Just for reference, i run my 35x11.5R15's at 40psi on road, and 16-18psi off road.

I'd say you just need to get out there and have a play with different pressures, but remember not to try land speed records with a low tyre pressure.

What size are the tyres?
What size are the rims?
What car are they on?
What pressures have you tried?

More info in your post will mean less questions getting fired back.