Outer Limits 4x4 Board

redzook wrote:id aim for more like 19" 20"

I agree the 20" mark seems to be the go.

Have had them in my jeep almost 2 years running fine, good pattern was easy to get and set!

If you do go with 4340 the welding inspector at work advised me to pre heat to 124 degrees or straw color then weld with low hydrogen rods then post heat or at least let cool naturaly .Most I have done this way some I have just used a 13s rod with a bit more amps to burn in never had one fail yet ...

Bru How did you go with the 76 mate any progress?? been looking since i saw your thread, it's got me thinking.

Cheers

As said it all depends on the housing some need clearancing others dont, just make sure you get no binding to be on the safe side and you will be good to go a little grinding wont weaken the ball but will help the CV and ball itself.

kane077 wrote:Toyota diff? Cheese judging on how weak they are!

Lolol prob like the swiss you have for a brain

Big offsets are the same as spacers, the problem with spacers is the nuts dont bed/bite into the alloy and can come loose, or so i have been told. [/color]

So how do alloy wheels stay on????????????? same taper same thread same torque means same hold.

Wheel spacers are realy made for offroad use ...

Not realy sure without seeing it but Most AVM hubs are sh!t! Compared to stock originals, I havent seen the internal of the AVM in so long i couldn't tell you what the go is but if the gears wont fit your oem then i can't see them being a set of long hub gears.

What a lot of you guys are forgeting is that with locktup you have more chance of geting any problem resolved than using the US companies especialy with warranty etc.

And before you all say you work for locktup i don't anymore i started the company but had to leave due to ill health.

So just bear ...

An lsd in the rear is a total waste of time they wera out in no time and when you need them they give up the ghost. putting more load on the front hence damaging front end components more easily.

Best 2 lockrite front and rear if you have to lsd rear till you can afford a real locker not a pretend ...

An lsd in the rear is a total waste of time they wera out in no time and when you need them they give up the ghost. putting more load on the front hence damaging front end components more easily.

Best 2 lockrite front and rear if you have to lsd rear till you can afford a real locker not a pretend ...

Mount the steering box as close to the radiator support as you can this allows better clearance of the tie rod and drag link. make sure you test fit it before welding it up.

Go to this site and look there they have the pitman arms and they also have the chassi plates. IMO you will still need a steering dampner.


http://www.locktup4x4.com.au/catalog/2d ... 66eef.aspx

okay,
ive decided to go with a lockright in the back, got a complete 4.88 centre with a lockright for $200..
Dan

Good cheap deal mate just chek the pins and springs are ok in the locker and you will be good to go :armsup: . If they are a bit iffy get a new set and keep the old as pares as they ...

wasnt a thread hijack just a option i will delete my posts to stop confusion

If you break a 30 spline there is nothing wrong with carrying a standard spare CV and axle for both sides whichever side was to break pull the whole 30 spliner out and replace it with the stock 27 spline original to get you out the sh!t. Its easrier to replace the whole CV and axle in one go than ...

If he goes with the 3"leafs in the front he will need hi steer realy no matter what he does he would be better with hi steer than the original steering.

Im in WA mate so i wouldn't have a clue, maybe PM bubs and ask him if he knows anyone.

I think you will like the kit they are pretty impressive just don't run a bodylift the 3" springs are enough for the 36s as is

The 3" should be okay just maybe ask them to get a different valving maybe to suit it for jumps?

Im not really sure about hi speed stuff thogh we have launched at speed with no damage to the 3" springs.

I think most springs are pretty much on par with the exception of the TG ones which flex twice ...

off topic

Most of the couplers have a small undercut or champher on the front of each end of the internal spline find a small 1/16th oring same dia and fit it to bothe ends and no leak :armsup: Also the RTV is a good idea use one for automatic transmissions for some reason they stick better and faster ...

The 3" kit is all you need from locktup they fit 36x14.5 iroks on cruiser rims with very minor rub at full flex.

5" as said would be way to tall for hi speed stuff. Plus these springs are designed more for rock crawling than hi speed so i am not sure how well the would be suited to jumps etc.

what 4x4 store told you that??? sound like a salesman out for a cash grab and not your best interests!

Truth is, if you're about 2" lift in tyres or susp. in WA, its illegal and insurance doesnt have to honour your claim. However this generally only applies in a "write off" situation when they ...

There is a lot of difference in the amount of flex in those leafs than in the ifs rear leaf longer shackle combo a lot more and a lot more stable and holding. Just depends on what you want and how much flex you want to coil it it will cost a bit more than the leaf setup.

Buy a set of Trail Gear 3" leafs or just get the whole classic rear kit there is plenty of flex and is matched well with a leaf front suspension. They flex out well and seem to hold up well.

http://www.locktup4x4.com.au/product/bb ... fa875.aspx

Verriers engineering could probarbly do the job for you sorry don't have there # but henry the old guy used to run the place with his son.

hahaha dude u on crack again? have a read of my post lol, mayb ur thinkin of another place or henry is craigs old man! now ur talkn years ago!

Yer man i am ...

Brooksy where did you get yours from i am looking for the corbeau baga rs reclining suspension seat. Can't find anyone selling them in WA

Dave

Verriers engineering could probarbly do the job for you sorry don't have there # but henry the old guy used to run the place with his son.

Good stuff

You need a piece of a 4140 or at least a grade 8.8 bolt just the shank no thread to extend the current lever by 16mm just cut the lever you have and join this 16mm piece to it and you have the longer finger to into the housing. Make sure you grind or machine a good champher on both sides of the 16mm ...