Outer Limits 4x4 Board

well in actual fact he only towed the trailer with it for a few thousand km before it broke. I think what contributed more to it's downfall was the fact that the previous owner put an aftermarket turbo on the 1hz long before my mate bought it.

correct me if i'm wrong, but i thought that the r ...

sorry about posting an add in here but this is pretty awesome if you're a 12HT fan.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=6171513&YearFromShort=1632&__Qpb=true&Cr=0&__Ns=pCar_Price_Decimal%7c1%7c%7cpCar_RankSort_Int32%7c1%7c%7cpCar_Make_String%7c0%7c%7cpCar_Model_String%7c0 ...

just had a chat to my mechanic - he's got a low km box from an imported halfcut lined up for me with a warranty.

all up with new clutch, rear main, machine flywheel etc it'll be $3,300.

I'm happy enough with that.

and my box - i don't really know what's wrong with it, but i don't really know ...

ok i've pretty much decided on a second hand box - i've got one out of a diesel lined up - but can anyone tell me if they are all the same?

reason i ask is that my 60 has the vacuum switch to go from 2H to 4H (transfer case). will a standard gearbox bolt straight in there, or does it have to one ...

just rang a wreckers here - he's got one out of a petrol 60 he wants $750 for it - anyone know if they're the same box?

i would love to fix it on the cheap but how do you check a 2nd hand gearbox?

i mean i could pull mine out and sell it as a 'second hand' gearbox, and until you put it in something and run it you'd never know it was busted.

so how do i go about finding a 'decent' 2nd hand box?

Ha ha - now that i have your attention - help me out with this decision.

I've just blown the gearbox in my HJ61, and i can't decide whether or not to fix it. It's gonna cost $4,200 for an exchange box, clutch, labour etc.

only thing putting me off is there's some rust starting to set in, some even ...

G'day,

can someone tell me if it is a direct swap in to put a H150 into a 1hz 100 series? i.e same transfer case, clutch etc?

If i have my facts straight, the 1hz 100 series has an R151 box yeah?

A mate of mine has a 100 series 1hz with an aftermarket turbo, and he tows a camper trailer with it ...

lets not forget the 12HT 60 series, which is vastly superior to any 2H or 1HZ powered slug. you can pick a good one up for around $10k these days. Bargain.

anyone ever done this? just curious as i have a low km HJ61 and cannot afford a turbo 80 (but i want coils dammit!!!)

fellas- the 60 series is actually designed to take a 33 inch tyre- before you start flaming me, check your speedo with a GPS- if you are running 31s, you will only be doing 95 when your speedo says 100. if you are running 33s, your speedo will be less than 1km out. i got this information from this ...

in case you want some more info....

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... highlight=

hey 4t how much do you want for that 150L tank?

howdy- anyone got any pics or ideas of how to make a double swing-away rear wheel carrier using the stock rear bumber? i'm not sure if the steel is thick enough / strong enough. don't want to build a whole new rear bumber. was thinking of maybe bolting some flat bar to the underside of the top of ...

(bear with me here). when the turbo timer turns the car off, i have noticed that it does so by a vacuum hose leading to a diaphragm, which pulls a little control arm forward, and then the engine dies. this is controlled through some sort of switch bolted on top of the engine.

i have an ...

thanks for that autobalanceman- i'm up in shark bay at the moment (giving the tyres a hiding) but will PM you after i get back if i need some magnum

i'm not really chasing big power increases- i just want to lower intake temperature to keep temps down on hot days and look after the engine etc-the power increase will be a bonus. will i have to increase boost to compensate for pressure drop across the intercooler? i.e after intercooler is ...

cheers carts-have you had that thing dynoed?

did you turbo it and then intercool, and if so was there any noticeable increase in turbo lag from the extra plumbing volume?

if so, what do you think of a side mount in the back passenger side of the bonnet? i'm thinking hot air would tend to escape ...

what about using staun deflators? i know there are valve core filters you can put in but it sounds like the magnum particles are pretty small, so i am thinking that at least some material may escape and gum up my stauns, or if it doesn't i am guessing the filter is that fine that it would slow ...

after much searching i found a product called dynabeads which looks pretty good-anyone used it? they are small ceramic balls, and therefore wouldn't absorb water at all (and ads80-did you mean water 'repelling' product?)

howdy- anyone have this magnum autobalance tyre balancing compound? sounds like it may work ok, but what happens when you air back up and your compressor spurts little droplets of water? the instructions say to reinflate with DRY air. i assume if water gets into the tyre then the compound will ...

never mind- i just went to wikipedia and answered my own question-so for those who know as little as me, the air passes through an air to air intercooler AFTER it has been compressed by the turbo (compressing air causes it to heat up.)

so i guess you would plumb it from the outlet of the turbo ...

how does air to air work? i don't understand how ambient air can get any cooler using ambient air over the cooling fins?? how hard is it to plumb an air to water intercooler? where does the water come from and how is it cooled?

sorry for being a dumbass (;

okay it's confirmed-used GPS yesterday-when the speedo said 100, the GPS said 101.5- pretty friggin close. so i can confidently say that changing from 31x10.5 to 33x10.5 cost me 1km/L in economy.

are you guys taking into account your tyre size? dumbdance you must be, as with 35s your odometer wouldn't be telling you such good economy? what tyre size is the 80 series speedo calibrated to?

no, but i used the speed i got from a gps when i was driving with 31s-when the speedo was 100, i remember the GPS was about 95, therefore 10km/L (what the odometer said i was getting) would convert to 9.5km/L (using GPS speed) with 31s. i will use a GPS speed to calculate a new economy with the 33s ...

ok- i was imagining things- i think i was comparing tacho readings at 110, not 100.

anyway- the tread pattern is AT-there is a bit of road noise, but only with the window down and clutch in rolling up to an intersection or something-i.e when you're actually driving the engine / gearbox drowns it ...

okay-got my 33s fitted yesterday- :armsup: :armsup: :armsup:
anyway- i'm sure my revs have dropped when sitting on 100km/hr from nearly 2500 to 2250. I thought this was impossible, as the speedo is connected to the gearbox, and the gearbox to engine and therefore tacho (when in gear) so for any ...

i am also interested in this- are we talking just air to air intercooling? this seems simple- just re-route the air flow to go through a front mount- but if it was that simple why doesn't everyone do it? sorry for being ignorant

heh heh heh-that's probably more technical detail than i needed :)
i was wondering about the difference in odometer readings tho- my 31s must be close to 31, as my speedo is only about 6 kms out. But to do 100km / hr with my 31s i am doing pretty close to 2500 revs.
this thread explains how my ...