Outer Limits 4x4 Board

because i did a wet test and compression did not improve. i wouldnt rule out head gasket but its 3 cylinders down not 2. not to mention the fact i hear these 2f engines are notorious for killing valves. heads coming off anyway i guess.

I did a compression test on my fj 45 1979 model and it is running on only 3.5 cylinders. 2 have nothing and 1 is at half compression. i have narrowed it down to the valves as there are no broken rockers, no broken valve springs and the rings seem good. i ran the lead replacement in the fuel but it ...

its on my 1978 fj45 . if i double pump the pedal my brakes work ok . but if i go to use the brakes normally and single press them they almost go to the floor before anything happens ..and then after a few seconds of braking it seems like i run out of vacum and the brakes are full manual which is ...

here is the pic of the bulb covers. I have no idea why they are there and even if it would make that much difference if i could remove them. They are spot welded to the panel in 2 positions and look difficult to remove unless i could get the accessory gauges out of my way. another option is to drill ...

i have to go that far because the bulb hoods are behind the speedo face plate .

ray i got another brainteaser for you how do you get the speedo needle off so i can remove the speedo face plate and drill out those globe dust covers for more light? disconnecting the speedo cable from the back doesnt cut the mustard.

ok thanks ray. mine is a 1979 so must be a bit different cause after getting in for a good look then all my bulbs are accessed through the back and they are all the same. wedge bulbs for hi beam,indicators and 2 dash lights that show my acccessories. i didnt know it but i was having trouble at night ...

i will check those things . my left indicator illuminates on the dash but right one doesnt so me thinks bulb..but how do i get to it..through the front or rear?

no i dont think its the flasher unit cause my left indicator works fine. (apart from a dull glow on bumpy roads )

im thinking its the right indicators bulb cause the noise is there as if its working but no light :(

is it easy to get up behind the dash to check why my right indicator flasher might not be working. i found the bulbs that light up the dash but ran out of daylight before i found the indicator connections. any tips?

V.W.Dave wrote:h) If your using anything other then the factory G12 (Lambo calls it something else but its still G12)coolant you are doing damage to you coolant system.
.

.lucky i dont have cars with plastic parts in the cooling system.

depends what your motor/radiator is? if its mostly alloy then the red is better which is glycol ( developed for wwII fighter planes ). if your an older steel engine with a copper/brass radiator than green is the go. i use holden coolant which is just gm stuff but its expensive at 45 bucks for 5 ...

15,s will give you a little more ballooning in the sidewall when your running low pressures which can be good for sand. on the other hand 16 rims would allow you to also run a tall skinny tyre like a 235,75,16 ($180 a tire) if you decide to hit the pavement for extended periods and save your 33 all ...

yes mate definatly run one. a 180 would be the best for a chev. I run a 160 stat in one motor as its bombed pretty hard and i like to have a little bit of a bumper before i need to turn on my fan but sometimes in winter i even run a 190 to keep the temp up on other cars...for best economy and to ...

loose torque converter bolts.normally more clang clang than zorboid but worth a look

cool. i got another thermostat off a mate tonite so i will try that 1st tomorow. its a brand new crate engine and from memory i thought i read somewhere they have 3 tune modes. not sure, but maybe the timing is a bit out? tackle that next. the dizzy and coil are ac delco units that came with the ...

reguarding the pressure difference thing..... do you relyse that with the fan drawing on the air behind the radiator it is causing a low pressure situation, between the fan and radiator, allowing the higher pressure air at the front of the radiator to pass through, so with the fan working properly ...

my biggest question is still if your having issues at slow speeds or at highway speeds as thats 2 entirely different sets of troubleshooting. ....from the way you talk how it overheated prior with the shoddy clutch fan but was ok with the solid fan im guessing its only at low speeds? if thats true ...

the fan will still suck air through, even though the car is doing 100, the air doesnt go through the rad that fast, it gets turbulence etc and a fan thats running well can still draw on the air coming through the rad. fans are important reguardless of speed. At cruise speed no ,air will only flow ...

when cruising your fan should not even be on and if it is its doing nothing as hitting air when driving 60klms/h or higher is going to overpower any thermofan so we can look elsewhere other than the fan I used to think that too (may not be applicable for all vehicles) till I had a overheating ...

when cruising your fan should not even be on and if it is its doing nothing as hitting air when driving 60klms/h or higher is going to overpower any thermofan so we can look elsewhere other than the fan I used to think that too (may not be applicable for all vehicles) till I had a overheating ...

grinding and aluminium does not go well together . the blade clogs and the aluminium melts. quicker way is to stock up on some metal blades for a jig saw...they even make them just for aluminium :)..2 or 3 blades should get you across a tray if its not the floor board type and the trick with alloy ...

very first thing is verify your gauge with either another gauge or infa red gun to know if your actually in the 220 range .lets check to see if you have used the original toyota temp sender on your chev block/head or have you wired your gauge onto a chev sendor?..they will not communicate correctly ...

RAY185 wrote:I have a 2F block with a good sump on it if you need one in Bris.

thanks ray . ill have a good look at my sump and see exactly where its coming from over the weekend . how much would you like for it?

the reasons for me to put a 350 in this thing continue to stack up :) You would be better off with an LS1 unless your calling that a 350.... just for more up to date and FI.... nice thinking red60 but i hate computers in cars. i prefer first gen with mechanical pumps and carbs. so easy for me to ...

i am most likely going to be doing the change in the next 12 months in my 79fj45 with all original 4 speed and 2f motor. im in the middle of moving house so once i have the space to play it will then happen my questions are.... 1)......i believe the stock gearing is 4.11 now and at 100klmh it goes ...

the reasons for me to put a 350 in this thing continue to stack up

thanks pc man . one of those spot welds has let go i think then. i can see the oil wetness around the back of the skid plate. im 99 % sure its not the drain but ill be sure to check . it only leaks about half a litre every 3 months so ill just keep an eye on it and it only leaks when hot. . once it ...

my sump seems to have a big skid plate under it. i dont know if thats a standard part for the car or not but how is it attatched if it is ? is it just stuck on with silicon or welded on from the inside as there appears to be nothing visible. reason i ask is i think i have a small oil leak coming ...

another tip with alloy radiators...before you install one do a electrolysis test. How do you do an electrolysis test? Use your eyes or is there a proper meathod? yes gqswb pretty much summed it up.make sure you do the part where he said touch the coolant onbly and not the filler neck. i only have ...