Outer Limits 4x4 Board

G'day, I know it's not tech but just stumbled over a Dana 44 front (and rear) diff on eBay http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/221490939931?nav=SEARCH" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Old mate listed it under 'cherokie chasis' so it's hard to find (cheap/no offers). It's the commonly referred to ...

Bit late, but... Ever considered a 1JZ with a a340 4-speed auto behind it? The Jeep AW4's in Cherokee's are the same box and they come up for $200 all the time. The a340/AW4's can be manualised easily with RADesigns shifter and there's a few mods available to beef 'em up. The New Process transfers ...

4l60e has a lower first gear, is easy to get and is easy to get parts for to make it stronger. 4l80e is obviously stronger out of the box though has a taller first and second gear, they're more expensive and harder to find. I've build two 4l60e's (get the ATSG manual) and they were both excellent ...

Pry bar. You can also throw a chain around the center and use a pry bar or two. Could winch it out
Diff spreader's are easy to make

Thanks for the advice mate. Any advice on the 2" lift? OME seems to have a good reputation, they quoted me $1,370 for coils, shocks and steering dampener - not bad if they're that good. I can have King or Dobbinson springs and Bilsteins for less than a grand though? The 2" lifted shocks only have ...

G'day Jeepers, I'm new to Jeeps and have searched so please don't flame. I'm looking at getting a TJ in the next couple of weeks. I'm looking to go a 2" spring lift with longer shocks, a 1" BL, some flat fender flares and 33's. A few questions: -Should I re-position the shocks on the chassis or axle ...

Where would the best place to go looking for a complete D60 front and a 14bolt rear be? Also is there a d60 rear diff? These will be going in a V6 powered buggy, and only running 37s. so not looking for something to handle 500hp No need for those axles with only 37's mate. You'd have the same ...

$550's alright.

Also have a look at http://hunterrivmasta.com.au/products/P ... m?pcatid=2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Check the swivel hub bearing preload, bushes and castor...

The proportioning valve will send excess fluid pressure back to the front so the rears don't lock up first.

Because it was drum rear and they use heaps less pressure, you'll need to get rid of the standard proportioning valve and and run it like I said.

If the load sensing proportioning valve is done away with, A goes only to the front and B and C will be the same thing. Most people put it at B.

Need more info mate

Have just got my self a surf with a pat gardener v6 conversion Anything to look out for on this like dramas anyone has Only thing worrying me is the fact that it is running a 2wd Hilux radiator with 1 10inch Thermo Any suggestions on others to use haven't been game to go off road with it being so ...

The '04 4l60e's and '01 4l80e's and newer have a different MLPS harness to the earlier ones. Have a look at the pic half way down http://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/1181029-what-changed-4l80e-between-2003-2004-a.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. Should be able to get ...

Just fuck off Dave ya troll.

Sorry to hear about ya brother mate.

6.5 meant no harm.

EFS or OME are the go

1st gear (4.17:1) x transfer reduction (5:1) x diff ratio (4.88) = 101.75.

Too easy. Run the pump from the 4L60e if you aren't already. They're the bigger 13 vane pumps. How's the buggy going?

Assuming you've got an auto PCM, you'll just need the loom. If you've got a manual ECU, have a look at these http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=shift-plus-2-electronic-overdrive-transmission-control-for-gm-4l60e4l65e" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. You can find them on eBay US for ...

There's a really good read on Pirate about the three types of PS pumps, how they work, how the aftermarket get more performance and how to mod them yourself. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=973826" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Rear shaft will give you vibes but not death wobbles. Check the tie rod ends for play. Inadequate swivel hub bearing preload would be my second bet.

It can be done easier and cheaper. Don't use a 40/45 PS box, the idler arm setup is shit. Get a 60 or 80 series box and make some frame plates with crush tubes. Bubs sells the plates pre fabbed - http://www.budscustoms.com.au/product.asp?ProductID=929" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false ...

Use Sikaflex 252. It's for automotive structural applications. It'll be fine

Same as every other ram assist setup. Drill and tap the PS box, mount the ram ends to the diff housing and tie rod then run the lines, cooler, reservoir and bleed it.

Depends what car/engine you've got. You going ram assist or full hydro? Have a look at PSC motorsports website. Dragtec sell a couple of the PSC pumps with brackets. Locktup sell some pumps for Toyotas too

Leave a few mm of clearance to the crown wheel. Go 8mm plate

I just got some 33x10.5 BFG KM2's from Tempe Tyres for $290 each. Cheap as chips and a good all rounder. I'm expecting 40,000+km's out of em. Anything more is a bonus.

Going second hand should get you a set of 33-35's for $650ish with plenty of life left on em.

If you've got space to fit it, go for it. Push-pull Hilux's have the dampner attached to the tie rod. The diff housings are sweet to weld to.

Check the articulation without shocks then buy the shocks with the most suitable closed and extended lengths.

Does the brake pedal pick up quicker if you pump it a few times? If so, re-bleed the system including the preportioning valve. If the pedal's heavy, check the vacuum line - you would wanna hope the rebuilt booster's fine. I've never had a diesel so I'm not sure if the alternator can have problems ...