Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Worth checking your body/engine/chassis earth's. An inadequate body earth sent all my gauges, lights and bells haywire.

Bunnings sells them (branded pelican, manufactured by trimcast as far as i can tell). Price match -5% guarantee and all that.

I'm in the market for a battery charger. It will initially be used to charge my lead acid starter and AGM deep cycle, but may be used on various battery types in the future.

The only two brands i've looked into who seem to make what i'm after are projecta and cetek with their IC1500 and mxs15 ...

Maybe here
http://daemon4x4.org/portal/downloads.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I assume you've checked the butterfly/actuator is working freely. Haven't knocked off a Vac hose between the butterfly and the pump?

norty40 wrote:Front and Rear are both the same
pre Oct 1984 - 150Nm
post Oct 1984 - 123Nm

Thanks!

I don't have my manual with me; whats the factory torque spec for HJ75 spring/axle U-bolts front and rear?

giffo wrote:Will 100 Series rear diff fit my 80 Series? I found a 80 Series diff for front (hopefully)

No, axle spline count is different. I don't think they came with a 4.1 ratio either but i could be wrong.

I think the 75s changed from 4.11 to 4.10 at the same time as they changed to small/hp front.

The front diff from the HZJ75 will probably have done less km's and hence be in better condition (as it is part time 4wd) and buying a pair of diffs from the same car ensures you have matching ratios. As far as i know splines are the same between the two models (only changed on early 40 series and ...

Post "Please recommend a reputable mechanic in Townsville" in general chit-chat, with a short, succinct story of your situation. You'll likely get more views that way. Sorry to hear about your troubles.

Shieldsy wrote:80 series has high pinion so steering arm clears underneath

So does late HZJ75...

As far as i'm aware they'll fit. They'll be 4.1:1 ratio, not sure what ratio your 80 would currently have. I'd suggest it's 4.1:1 too.

I don't think it's an entirely shit idea. My sliders are mounted back to the chassis but only at two points, and they do flex up enough to contact the body. They spread the load evenly along the sill and have taken some big hits without damaging the body (they're working as I intended) I don't think ...

80s gxl rims wouldn't fit my hj75 which has the same nuckles as a 60. Interfered badly on the tre if I recall correctly. Did you torque up the wheel nuts or just hold the rim on by hand?

I got a genuine drag link + end (wasn't expecting the drag link to be included!) for not much more than an aftermarket end (which had to be cut down to fit my 75 anyway). I payed trade price - see if you can screw down your genuine spares people a little? The way my el-cheapo failed i'm considering ...

madmacca wrote:are you sure it was a Cummins that was the engine swap , he may have been thinking of Brunswick Diesels who do the Chev http://www.brunswickdiesels.com.au/home.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Which would have been a cool conversion in the early 90's.

Pod's aren't great, I'd look at mounting a filter box on the roof or behind the cab - donaldson make a whole range so you might find something suitably compact. I reckon the powercore units look the goods - though they do get pretty big with higher flow rates, i suppose you'll just have to decide ...

Unlikely, being live all the time, but it could be part of a negatively switched glow plug or fuel solenoid system.

Any idea about the windscreen frames? Toyota has about 4 different part numbers - some are for snorkel fitted vehicles. Can't think what the other differences could be?

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I haven't used them personally but their work has received praise from members in the past.

vanbox wrote:Why would you?

Faster, more positive engagement helps keep the ring teeth intact when crash locking. I believe it's an ARB approved fix.

What are the options regarding factory/genuine pistons? Treating, ceramic coating etc??

I've heard of these Thomas winches (in pto driven config) bending main shafts/drums and flexing/rounding shoulders off the dog clutch (thus disengaging under load - no braking). I personally wouldn't be throwing much money into one.

Clamshell bearing puller (to remove bearings without damage), shop press, pinion flange breaker bar, carrier bearing pliers, new bearing race drivers, etc....

Z()LTAN just uses a hammer and 'feel' for all that.

In response to OP - pinion preload is VERY important for a road driven vehicle. A ...

The belt will probably only slip when the system is under load (when you're steering).

I'd just stick with the standard configuration (knot inside the drum) unless you're doing winch comps and need quick changing ability or your winch is modified in a way that prevents this method.

In fact i don't even use a knot, i just double it over and wrap the end in tape - easier do undo than ...

Re-mount to the inside of the chassis rails.

how would u do that?
as the way i measured a 79 coil front end, the control arm mount goes right where the crossmeber goes atm

I'd imagine you'd cut the original mounts off then run horizontal crush tubes through the rails and plate on each end of ...

I used m10 from memory. Can't see a problem with m12 so long as you don't go boring any more than you need to (30mm would be more than enough)

I went the Detroit soft auto locker...you would not know it is there...

Having had detroits front and rear I can't believe how often i hear this comment. The front was a nightmare - it would unlock/freewheel only until you really needed to steer. Rear would lock/freewheel intermitantly in a ...

I went the Detroit soft auto locker...you would not know it is there...

Having had detroits front and rear I can't believe how often i hear this comment. The front was a nightmare - it would unlock/freewheel only until you really needed to steer. Rear would lock/freewheel intermitantly in a ...