Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Don't build it at ride height, build it at full suspension compression. ie. if you think you want 500mm belly height and 150mm of bump travel set your rotisserie or table or whatever up at 350mm and build everything to fit at that height. Suspension, drivetrain mounts, tailshafts, everything. This ...

rockcrawler31 wrote:Hi Wendle

Whatever happened to the truck you were building? the rat looking thing with a vintage cab?

Been my daily driver for nearly a year



Really off topic now LOL...

I have no input or interest in the gods winches :lol: I do, however, gave one of these old Thomas winches on my buggy. Good, reliable old thing. Has saved me falling to my death numerous times. Only problem with them is that once the gearbox gets smashed into rocks a bit it's hard to get them to ...

There's no reason it can't be stable with air shocks at all corners. Get all the weight low and centred, get the anti-squat nice and low in the rear so it's not lifting under torque and seeing as you won't be going fast build the roll axis reasonably high at both ends. Also get the oil level up nice ...

LOL. Good work.

planb wrote:Stumbled upon this Volvo recently in Denmark. Always surprised how small they are.

How are the Danish women this time of year?

IMHO around half your total build cost should go to building the strongest diffs you can get for that money. Too many people want to spend big on engines and then break running gear. Like some winch challenge guys spending 10k in a blown LS motor only to break a $120 nissan cv over and over again ...

The 404 Unimog stuff is the only thing you'll get in there for 4k. Making pinion adapters is a lot cheaper than buying lockers. Their 7.35:1 final drive is not going to give you any speed with little 37" tyres though. I also don't think the portal boxes will handle landing jumps long term ...

6061 is ok, not as good as 7075, but ok. I've run 6061 links and molested them hard and they hold up. If you drive big rocks you will bend them eventually, but still way, way better than a mild steel link of comparable size. You can straighten them out, it takes about 20t to press a 46dia link back ...

General best practice is to aim for 1.5 times the parent material thickness. Your chassis structure and diff housing is folded up from something around 3mm plate most likely, so probably aim for 5mm or 3/16" for whatever you are going to add. Theory is that anything thicker than 1.5x actually takes ...

You can also get a spare cap for your reservoir and fit a tubeless valve stem to it and use a bicycle pump to do the same job

the buggy will weigh at least 600kg, theres an extra 400kg of mass, let alone the amount of torque / reduction going through everything...... Probably be lucky to come in under 1000kg. The only weight saving over a conventional small buggy drivetrain is replacing a 4-banger with the bike engine and ...

Hey Matt, it's been a while...

Good to see you finally building a car for yourself

Cheers,
Carlton.

Wendle so the care did have the over heating issues sorted then? Do you know what power figures this things made in the past? It ran a touch warm, but never overheated. Michael drove it like no vehicle deserves to be driven too. :lol: That dude can steer like he was born with a motorcar on the end ...

I think the last time I heard of this it was still RWD as it still used the infiniti gearbox... is it 4WD yet? It was always 4wd, Infiniti auto shares a lot of components with the Patrol auto. So with some swapping around the Patrol TX12A transfer bolts up. I'm not sure when all the reliability ...

Yeah understand what your saying mate,id imagine though that with the amount of torque twist in an ls1 that the engine mounts will have a fairly high stress load. Mulitply that engine mount stress load by your t/case ratio, your diff ratio, the difference in separation (approx 300%) between engine ...

Would someone mind answering a few Q's for me: 1. Do you need to swap the L/H knuckle or is it fine to use the GQ L/H knuckle? I guess if you did this, you would need to ream the R/H side so the tie rod sits on top. 2. If you were to use both L&R side knuckes with the tie rod underneith, does the ...

Mario wrote:this is the topic

only the link on the Bibles needs to be edited !

I have edited the link in the bible.

It's kind of hard to keep up with how often the architecture of the site's address system changes

Other Suspension Questions: Shock hoops: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=44076" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Bush Replacement: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=30430" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Spring Paks: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com ...

General Problems: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=13455" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=11830" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; V8 Conversion problems: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=19195" onclick ...

Thanks wendle I've emailed them & waiting to hear back. Your old swampers are still rollin !! Jeff I was watching some footage from a comp over there the other day, saw your car, thought "wow, they're big big tyres for a Range Rover". Took me a few minutes to realise they were the old wheels I ...

http://www.branikmotorsports.com/axle.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

$495USD each machined from 4340 and hardened.

I don't think anyone has broken one of these yet.

After trying most materials, I will never use anything other than 6061 or 7075 aluminium solid bar again. It is awesome stuff.

lukethedork wrote: Cutting and welding the tube would be more work to get it aligned properly I think.

Do you have access to a decent lathe?

I have a period correct 6-cyl flathead and non-syncro 4-speed you can have for cheap. It has 87 genuine, rated horsepower and will match your drum brakes perfectly.

Looks like a nice solid body to start with. Has it spent it's whole life inland?

My buggy might be a good example for you Ludacris. I have a Commodore V6 that used to overheat occasionally in my old buggy with the radiator in the front and the mechanical pump only. In my current buggy I have the radiator in the rear with an electric pump and the mechanical pump still running ...

let me just say again im no expert i was only offering a suggestion as to why the authoraties would deem 10 inch wide rims to be illegal its seems that even after it was explained with some technical detail that some still dont understand and just for the record my comp tyres are 35x13.5 on ...

Mario wrote:Thanks. What happened to the pics on the original post (the one on the bibles) ?

Pics are back in there, they were all there in a big pile on the third page anyways...

Thanks. What happened to the pics on the original post (the one on the bibles) ? They were originally attached directly to the site when we could do that, then that function was no longer so someone else linked them from their photobucket. I didn't realise they had gone again. I'll get them back in ...

Hi Wendle, i will be doing this conversion soon but with GQ leafy housings. Was wondering if you could answer a couple of questions, did you have any clearance issues with the chassis panhard mount with compression? I also run a xlink so im a bit worried i might have clearance issues with it also ...