Outer Limits 4x4 Board

NutterGQ wrote:does the car have body lift? and dont forget to check proportioning valve

Yea, always a good idea to bleed brakes when vehical is on the ground position(no axles hanging in the air)on axle stands is ok.
sometimes the prop valve give a ????? during bleeding.

Cheers Ian.

If there are no obvious leaks, Clamp rubber hoses's at diff. Now push brake pedal. 1/ if soft,undo master(no need to crack lines) and move it out far enough to check if the rear seal is leaking.It should be.(new master needed) 2/ If hard, release font hose clamp and try again. if soft you can ...

No , it was trailered !!! GQ wagon , cut down into ute body moved back on the chassis , & rear bobbed GU diffs Front & rear 4.6 ratios 4.8 motor ..stroked to 5.0..195 RWKW Auto (lock up convertor) , standard transfer 35,s[/quote] Cool, nice effort. Well done. Good to see 1 vehicel doing a variety of ...

Did they drive the patrol back to vic ?

What's the specs on the Patrol.

Well done anyway.

Thanks Ian.

If you clamp both brake lines to the front and rear diffs
and press pedal, hard pedal.Master is fine.
remove rear clamp, hard pedal, rear is fine.
spongy pedal,its in the rear.
repeat same steps on front.
then you can do each caliper.
this will help point to the problem area.

Cheers Ian.

Jonesy,
Sorry mate not trying to dig at you,not my intensions.
Just trying to get plans set so i can arrange work,family etc.
thanks for the help,maybe i have to be more patience.

Ta Ian.

Ian Spectators will be on again this year. Check out the OBC webpage or contact the organisers for more info. Jonesy Can anyone point me in the right direction, I've sent faxe's and e-mails but ave had no replie to any. What does one do to get info and make a booking. I've got work & home on ...

giantracing wrote:why doesnt everyone who is competing put up a pic of there car and a quick intro on who you are. that would be good. maybe start a new thread

X 2

MYTTUF wrote:Ian
Spectators will be on again this year. Check out the OBC webpage or contact the organisers for more info.
Jonesy

Excellent,Thankyou.

The webpage is still on last yrs info,
so i shot an e-mail off.
See how we go.

Cheers Ian.

Sorry to but in,
but does any one know if the
spectator thing is happening this yr.
I'm keen to take a look.

cheers Ian.

bogged wrote:ITS UNLOCKED

How do I lift a Y61?

Forklift, hoist.

Besides this is a Y60 thread.

Or try "Search".

If one was to do a body lift(2") what would be
the chances of the body mounts cracking ?

If so, is there a way to prevent it.(besides the obvious.)

Its a weekend toy, not a comp truck.

Any Advice would be great.

Cheers Ian.

"anyone thing their should be any issue's with using same piston,rings and gudgen also bearings? with another rod?" Mate, if you Can($$). replace piston and ring etc, and roll a set of bearings in. Wold be better to have it done once not twice,and it could do more dammage($$$) if left. Hope all goes ...

bent no 4 rod for sure and 5 possibly.

Yep mine was no 4 that put holes
in both sides of block.

Yes sorry mate,
i did same thing sucked water and had small miss,
6weeks later she let go.
the result was 1 very vented block.
Sorry to sound harsh but get it checked before it
cost $$$ like it did me.

Note to everone, dont trust someone else to
seal your snorkle. Check it.

Cheers Ian.

Sorry to steal post. NutterGq, I understand what you say,and im in the auto(truck) trade. I have a few freinds and family down your way and its still seems to be quiet a bit cheaper for the radiato you discribe. If a alloy unit is approx $700 down thier thats not bad as ive had quotes for that for a ...

NutterGQ wrote:

tj81 wrote:PWR - $1200

Or you could get a custom made alloy for half or less depending on who is doing it.

Any Clue on where!!!pls...

I am thinking of doing an adult apprentiship,
And i know it will mean a pay cut.
But thats the price i will have to pay for it.

Ian.

Hi all, Its been a while but the old girl is re-powerd and running sweet. So first weekend away and i put a nice "crease" in the rear quarter panel :roll: So has anyone made a neat peace of gear to protect this area. Yes i know just cut the quarters and ad a rear bar. They look a bit rough. If i fit ...

For a floor bung,try a "yuppie"self sealing
Bathroom drain plug.
Push it down, It seals
Push it again, and it opens to let water drain.
Try bunning's etc etc.

Cheers Ian.

i have a twin turbo 1uz in a patrol has everything you need. my winch is a double gearbox double motor air free spool hi mount. works great. even with mine you need more yhan 40 000. i dont have a pic but can someone please put a pic up if you know of my rig. bright orange middy patrol ute. thanks ...

LOCKEE wrote:Neil built them himself out of Ridepro Shocks and Coils.

They are 80 Series rear shocks and 79 Series Coils.

Where are you and I can put you in touch with a dealer?

Ok...mmmm
Anyone got pic's

Ian.

Undo Where the air intake joins the engine
and hold it as high as possible.
Then fill the sucker with water,
if it cant get out,it cant get it.
Make sure to tip out water before
re-attaching air intake.

Ian.

With out starting a "Winch War",
would it be possible to seal and add breathers to an
non warn winch.
I'm looking at getting a T-Max and would like to seal
it against water, mud etc.

Cheers Ian.

BIG GQ wrote:Just buy a set of Dale's 2dextreme arms. They're awsome and well priced.

More info pls, any pix.

ta.

Could you get away with 2" spring & 2" body lift
and fit 33's safely

Cheers Ian.

Im running Koni Scania truck shocks on the front and they are great.

Any Chance of Details please,
Whats your spring lift?
How did they mount?
Any help would be great.

Cheers Ian.

Try LHS front were head & block join.
theres a flat ledge thats stamped.
What he said.

Ian.

Also, swapping front to rear helps
"re-square" the tyre as they wear
uneven on the front.

Ian.

Scott,
i've had same prob.
Changed wheels left to right, got better.
Fitted kit to LH top king pin.prob solved.

Cheers Ian
pm sent.