Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i ran 35's on an 84 with flat springs diff forward 35 mm and 1 inch body lift it only just touched on full compression

i think your problem running the sc14 is that it uses a throttle body to choke air down from the motor the same way a wastegate does for a turbo. So from what i have heard you wont have any control on boost levels.

someone correct me if i'm wrong

well if anyone is interested i have an 84 hilux extra cab body with full interior and custom seats few dints in the roof from hail but only a tiny bit of rust in the front left drip rail

you'd be very hard pressed to have the conversion done for 10 grand, for starters you'd need new gearbox, stronger transfer case, bigger diffs, custom shafts, mounts, wiring , engineering, cooling, fuel system, etc i would bet a turbo conversion would be cheaper easier to engineer and that way power ...

nastytroll wrote:if you want diff hand brake go commodore, falcon, skyline ect any car with 4 wheel disk should do.

i'm pretty sure commodore and falcon run the handbrake inside the disk just as a drum brake works but could be wrong

i had similar trouble with my hilux and i found it to be a faulty bleed nipple on slave cylinder wasnt allowing me to bleed the system properly

well my 1981 v6 (3.8 litre) out of a camaro made 207 at the flywheel with torgue cam, manifold and on gas with a sweet tune couldn't drive the hilux in the wet without wheel spin through second

i had the 3.8 version(229) in my lux and it was great only problem i had with it was the oild screen coming out of pump which lost all oil pressure and i was in a situation where i couldnt back off. result ver smokey motor but i'm actually about to get it rebuilt with mild cam head work and crack ...

easiest option would be twin turbos runnin max of about 4-5 psi but failing that its best to run both banks into the turbo helps keep the turbo on boost and equaliziuse the pressure aswell. i'll be doin twin turbos on a 350 chev in the coming months but wont be in a 4by will be interesting to watch ...

i used to run 4.88's with 35's in a lux with v6 chev (140kw at flywheel) drove great but a little to high geared for highway went down to 4.3's went beautiful even with 37's on. but for a standard diesel your gonna struggle with 37's no matter what diff ratio u have but i do have a set of 4.88's if ...

edit: see ya got it fixed

check that your pistons in the front calipers arent seized up

dont quote me but i am pretty sure its about 16-16.5 mm well i know i used a 16.5 to drill mine out

heres how mine is goin to be mounted behind the cab its a late model falcon radiator and i have standard thermos to go with it aswell i still need to do the piping but hopefully it shoudl be fine

i read in nams post he dislikes the auto due to constant load. theres a solution to this if your running the right box. I'm using the th350 in mine and on the top of the box there is 2 bumps that look like they could be drilled and tapped if done right u can drill and tap these and run hydraulic ...

i was goin to go down this path but chose a 3 link a-frame over it but if anyone ios interested i have a surf rear quarter chasis with everythign on it from housing to links and brackets, coils, etc

i have a g52 for sale with only 5000km's since full rebuild for 600 if u want thats without a transfer but teh box is perfect i only removed to to do engine conversion and auto

i've had both locked front only and locked rear only hilux's and honestly the front works better but i would go the rear first as u get shit loads of places and don't have to worry about cv's... but if u dont mind sittin out in the bush changin cv after cv go the front or front and longs

i'd go with a t350 there a fair bit lighter and pretty strong, well enough for a lightweight buggy anyway only thing is dont bother with any of them unless your running a cooler with a thermo pushin air through it they are getting harder to find but i still only paid about 1500 for a fully recoed ...

for a trail rig u cant beat bfg muds they are awesome on road in regards to noise and quality of ride and also straight line grip the only problem with mine on road was off camber down hill wet corners but knowing how they handled in that situation meant it wasnt much of a concern. off road with 35 ...

look at each end and there will be a split pin remove this then where the split pin came from will have a slot in it unscrew this and then wiggle your steering wheel a few times to loosen it and it should pop right off

i have one to. measure the distance from transfer output to the diff flange for me and i'll measure the one piece i have here i only removed it cause i need to run a double cardinal on the rear of mine now

Not the best pic i know but this was mine before i started the rebuild. It's an 84 with 1 &1/2 spring lift 2 inch body and diff forward 37mm. i had 4.88 diffs and running a 3.8 litre v6 chev and didnt even notice the bigger tyres but with a 2.8 u dont really want anything bigger than 33's unless you ...

i dont see why you'd have a problem with 3 inch spring and body lift mine when at ride height sitting level the 35" tyre on the rear sat an inch up on the chasis. as in where the rear steel bumpstop is. i even ran this setup without the diff forward for about 4 trips and was only gettin light to ...

here u go not the best pics but you'll get the idea

35 up in the guard without scrubbing


side on shows ride height sorry i dont have a better one

shoudl be fine i ran sagged 2 inch lift leaves with 2 inch body and diff forward 35mm and only ever just scrubbed and that was if i had one side fully flexed up with all the weight of the car on it. i'll see if i have a pic

i've got the unimig 240 procraft series welder . i find it good with the electronic menu makes it easier to change and change back settings quickly. only thing i find is with a 15 amp lead and only a 20amp breaker it trips quiet easily on any setting over 5

hey guys here's my second hilux first ones back on page 2 i think. Still in the build stages but shoudlnt be to far off once i get the motor back anywheres heres how it was sitting as of the other week http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/batcho101/coils010.jpg http://i110.photobucket.com/albums ...

easiest way to get the ohm reading right woudl be to find/remove the guage from the tank and test the ohms at empty and 1/4 half 3/4 and full then work it otu from there mine runs off a float with a magnet in it which moves the contact. i think some even have the ohms written on them