Outer Limits 4x4 Board

You said you put new injectors in it?....... have you bled the air out of the fuel system properly. An obvious one, but you never know

58kw(78Hp) - 189 Nm with a CT20, standard boost, no intercooler, standard ratios, 33s, 350 thou on the motor......

after a new injector pump, injectors, timing belt and a dyno tune.. 70kw(95hp) - 220Nm @2520 rpm.

After chewing centre bearings every six months, I finally went to a one piece. I also moved my rear axle back 50 mm so the one piece was pretty long. The driveshaft was made with thicker sidewall and a larger diameter as the shop who made it told me about the frequency vibration issue. Would ...

I'd be taking it for new injectors and a tune. Oh, new aircleaner before that too. Mine was putting out 189NM and 58KW (78HP) at 10L/100km.... after new injectors and a dyno tune it now pumps out 220NM and 70KW (95HP) at 9.4L/100km. Not to bad for an old bunky 2.8 with 330 thousand K's. Pushs it ...

So how did you go with this problem mate ? If its still on going, another suggestion is to pull your EDIC motor apart and give it a clean. My old 2H has similar issues to yours and I went through much the same problems as you. Finally stripped the EDIC and found it was full of watery crap... cleaned ...

http://www.perth4x4.net/forum/index.php

http://www.westcoastcrawlers.com.au/phpBB2/index.php

Sorry mate, but that is bloody ugly ! Doesn't suit the lines of the Hilux and just looks all out of balance.

Cool, would be interested to see some pics if they come up. Just fitted IFS springs and lift blocks and they are a little soft

I know its a bit of a stretch considering the age of the thread, but any chance of getting some of the pics back up ?


Would be good in the Yota bible too if some pics came back.

I'll drag this up as I'm just starting my own CT20 onto 3L conversion.... So if I read the thread right, it doesn't matter which water cooling line from the turbo (there are two) goes to which heater hose as long as you join them down near the thermostat ?? (I have brass fitting ready to plumb into ...

Or we could put all the pics here....

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=77305

On the truck tanks, bars and guards I use a big wad of steel wool and normal hand soap. Just go with the grain of the metal and after a few goes it comes up like a mirror. After that I use Mothers, don't rate autosol or Purple but Wicked is good if you can find it. After a couple of coats of polish ...

Hales231271 wrote:

duncan wrote:Someone is selling a prado diff on this board

Who and how much??

Cheers
Dazza

http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=102830

Damn double post

Why don't you just rip out the body lift yourself, and either trim to make legal or throw over your shoulder ?

Costs nothing....

uh oh, this isn't going to end well

Put it in the for sale section mate

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenan ... l_bearing/

This might help.

Don't worry about SSTs or presses, the shade tree method works best and is very quick, then simply tap them back onto the axle with a drift. Took me about ten minutes per side to get them on and off.

Have fun

Plenty of info in this link for ya

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=92913

Weiner,

Don't know if I'd be real keen on using that hook.

There isn't much metal in the top plate of that bar, and it doesn't look like its been plated, so it may simply rip the bolts out when put under a decent load.

Can't help you with info, but will be reading the responses carefully as I'm looking at the same conversion.

Had this exact problem. Should say Have

Changed centre bearing, all UJs etc but still there. No rear main leak or clutch slip.

Just live with it now until the V6 goes in, but my money is on the clutch alignment or flywheel. My clutch is only a year old, but may not have been fitted right.

Well, I've picked up my second standard hilux tank so over the next week I'll be fitting it, but need a bit of info to point me in the right direction. The actual mounting doesn't pose a problem but some advice on how or where to deliver the fuel would be great. First Q - Transfer from the second ...

Hope you get it on the road quickly

Last one I did I drove the screwdriver (carefully) through the metal part of the seal, gave it a quick twist to make a gap between the seal and the housing, got a grip with some needlenose pliers and yanked it out easy.

Prise it sideways with a screwdriver and just pull it out with pliers, I assume you are going to replace it.

Sweet, thanks for the heads up ! Didn't know that one.

ozy1 wrote:REMEMBER ONLY WELD VERTICALLY

Probably an obvious answer to this, but why weld vertical only?

I would have thought the more contact (weld) between plate and chassis, the better.

I am about to make sliders for the Lux and will be doing them just as described by ozy1.

3 inch seems to work well on mine although I had to trim just a little from the back of the front guard, and now doesn't touch anywhere.

Rims are 15x10s with decent offset which might make a difference.

93 with the trusty 3L

Twin air lockers, 33's and a bit of suspension work





Edited with different pics...

If you are serious about doing this safely, have a look at something like this,

Description: Hino FD Hawk, 6 cyl diesel, 6 spd, p/s, pan.
Price: $33,000.00
First Registered: 07 - 93
Kilometers: 639558

http://www.carrolltrucks.com/inc/trucks_5ton.php3