Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Yeah I'd definitely use a Paj DiD not the common rail Triton 3.2. Someone has put a 3.2DiD into a NL shortie and from memory it was a bit of work but fitted in ok but I think he had to get a new output shaft made up for the NL t/case to fit the DiD 5sp auto. Do a google and I'm sure it will come it ...

Yes if you are breaking 3.0 axles then the 9.5" diff is a good upgrade especially if your running 33" + tyres and go hard. It will eliminate this issue. No-one I know of has managed to break one of these axles. You can also get the 9.5" ARB locker now. You will loose 0.5" of clearance but it's a ...

Yes it is a bolt in conversion for the rear 9.5" diff. The tailshaft will have to be modded though to suit. The large diffed rears all had the 8" front HP diff so as long as yours is a 5sp it will have the 8" diff (3.0 auto's had the smaller 7.25" front diff) so it will be interchangeable. I'd check ...

Yeah I know guys that have done both. Replaced 7.25" HP with 8" LP to run 5.29 and ARB locker. I also know of replacing a 8" LP in a Gen 1 to a 8" HP with CAD (the centre was welded) and the CAD was wired to a dash switch to use like a selectable locker. The manual hubs were kept locked. I also know ...

The main reason ARB don't do a front locker for the 7.25" diff is lack of market.
The 8" front diff covers the majority of the Pajero model range.

Dudelux, the NS/NT has to run 17" rims to clear the larger calipers. So far no aftermarket steelies exist that will fit this model (except the mega expensive Mitsi ones). The NM/NP has to run 16" rims but there are steelies available plus GU Patrol 16x8 steel rims have been used successfully. All ...

Yeah that's what I ended up doing with my NP. Mine has 16" alloys so I just got a 2nd set and fitted muddies to those for offroading. The cost of 16" steelies new was about the same as the alloys anyway. Yours being 17" I can bet that if steelies exist they will be expensive and it maybe cheaper to ...

No , mitsubishi 9" centre DONOT fit to the 9.5" housing. But you can transplant the ring and pinion gears from a 9" to a 9.5" diff. As you know 5.29 r&p gears are available ONLY for the 9" diff and NOT for the 9.5" diff. This way you can have a big 9.5" diff WITH the 5.29 gears. gotcha .. thanks ...

Yep 100% agree with Patrick. Same thing happened to me - kept breaking left hand tie rods. About 4 times in a row got halfway up the craggy bit on Rocky Track Toolangi and bang. Turned out the draglink was slightly bent (extremely hard to see when it's on the car) which is symptomatic of a bent ...

Yeah you gotta watch those control arm bolts they are known to come loose and you can loose the shims.
Despite repeated efforts this happened every time after several hard trips on my NH.
I replaced the factory bolts with high tension ones with nylocs - never had a problem after that.

IMO 33"s with a SOHC 3.5 would be about it.
Heaps of guys in the US run these but the ones that go to 35"s run 4.90's from the 2.8TDI.

Manual or auto ?

Yeah a lot of the US guys remove them completely and report that they still drive ok. Others have made up a much better bushing arrangement for the shaft. There have been a few instances of them falling off and causing major damage.
I think the 3.5 SOHC had a different design to address this issue ?

Hmmm very interesting question. Being a 4G53 I would expect a KM145 to bolt up as the 2wd version KM132 was found behind all the Astron motors. The KM145 itself isn't a world beater in the strength department but should be easy to get as you guys had the 2.6 Shogun so I'd expect a few to be lying ...

Absolutely, there's something not write with that price - it wouldn't even cover the cost of the material let alone heat treating or machine time etc. Maybe their an 0.8" 5.29 for some diecast remote control Dakar model :D Or the other thing it could be a minimum quantity like 500 sets or something ...

No, crownwheel bolts. All Paj's (8, 9, 9.5" diffs) have 10 bolts for the rear housing. There is a much bigger size difference between the 8 & 9" diffs compared to the 9 & 9.5" units. The problem will be the hole centres on the 8" won't line up with the studs on the 9" housing and even if they did ...

$30 US !!!!!!!!! Surely it's got to be a typo ? The factory gears are made in Japan by Asano (one of the biggest gear manufacturers in the world) under license for Mitsi. Do you know the company that Mr Wong represents ? I found this company which looks like it ships worldwide http://www.engineparts ...

Hmmmm the dreaded 3.5 alternator disease. A mate in the Paj Club had the very same issue - virtually every trip to Toolangi he would fry an alternator. After much research we discovered the NL 3.5 V6 had a very subtle factory mod to help protect the very low slung alternator. There is a plastic ...

No.
8" (leaf spring) = 10 bolt
9" (coil spring) = 12 bolt

Hi George, Frank here. You know I checked my emails and we were talking about 5.29's back in 2002 - how time flies !!!!! To answer your questions I'm pretty certain that a 8" low pinion will bolt in there maybe a little work required like redrilling bolts holes etc but it should fit unless there is ...

The fronts are definitely bolt in. The rear 50/50 split seat from the NK/NL GLS will not bolt into a NJ (they don't have the right mounts). They only have two mounts (either side for the bench rear seat) you need the two centre mounts as well for the split seat to work. I looked at doing this to my ...

Yes this has been done before quite a few times. Go on Trail Talk and do a search for exactly what you need. The guys that have done this also mostly upgrade to the V6 front brakes abd 8" front diff. You will need both upper & lower arms and CV's - I think the rest of the steering gear is ok. For ...

Yep to save yourself potential heartache after pulling everything apart and discovering things don't fit I'd do a little bit of checking :- - look at the data plate of the Paj it will tell you what diff ratio it has (this alloy plate is usually found on the firewall) my guess is it will be 5.29's if ...

Yeah I think they pump out 210Kw and 450Nm from the factory

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=888365&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=2&fpart=1 This may give you some ideas for a blower. Some guys have discussed at length doing the 3.0 V6 DOHC twin turbo conversion from the Mitsi GTO (you know that two door thingy). Would be pretty much a ...

Ben get in there son :-

http://www.tradingpost.com.au/Automotiv ... e&AdOnTop=

Another option is the 3.8 V6 Mivec out of the NS/NT but I they could be hard to find and a bit exxy at the moment.

Yeah I still think the 3.8 SOHC is the go I'd be looking around for a wrecked NP so you can snaffle the donk, ancilliaries, wiring harness ecu etc. In fact you maybe able to score a front cut with the 5sp auto and larger t/case. It will virtually be a bolt in except for the engine mounts and will ...

Hi Ben, the Jabber deserves more power mate. There are several permutations :- - performance rebuild the 3.0V6 bored out to 3.2 (it had 102,000 when I bought it off an Asian dude who never took it off road) - install 3.5/3.8V6 SOHC - install some other non Mitsu motor My choice was going to be a 3.5 ...

Ahhh the memories.................... Good to hear Dean that it's still in good hands. Hopefully he posts here to keep us updated and if he needs to know anything just has to ask. The only things that need to be done on that truck is the rear axle upgrade and possibly a front tube bar and high mount ...

I seriously looked at GQ axles when I did my SAS. If Cheezy had his way that's what he would have done. The reasons I went Tojo front and kept the Mitsi 9" rear were :- - good front clearance with the 8" front Tojo diff compared to 9.25" GQ but both are high pinion which is a must for the front ...